Andi

Thanks Howie, so I just want to apply the stuff on the rubber boot that I'm holding in the 3rd picture? So the actual module (heavy squarry metal black thing) gets left alone? Or do I apply a thin layer over that as well?

Hey there guys, Just recently I upped my boost to 10psi and fited my fmic and the car doesn't feel as smooth as it does at stock/ebc off (7psi) and at 13psi its very stuttery/jerky and theres quite abit of mis-fire. I recently threw in some BKR6E plugs in and they are 0.8mm gap so I'm leaning to believe its a coilpack problem as I had to replace my 6th one before (it was dying out and making the car only run on 5 cylinders). So I'm planning to pull them out tomorrow to alraldite or silicon or whatever them to see if I can fix the problem before deciding to fork out for some splitfires. But the problem is I've no idea where to actually alradite them so I've taken some pictures of the coil, could someone highlight where exactly I'm suppose to apply the stuff or post a picture of their own showing where? And I've also read people have cleaned the connection/contact point inside but when I've removed the rubber gromet/boot all I found was a spring and a small black (carbon rod?) stick that was unreachable as it was pretty high up there. Is this what I'm suppose to clean? The spring? The rod? Both? Thanks all, sorry for all the questions but answers will be hugely appreciated! Cheers, Andy

Must be the picture. The gap is 0.8 on all of them. I recently put in BKR6E's in and apparently they're 0.8 gap stock (pretty sure I checked as well to make sure) so I might not change the plugs but will give timing a check and araldite/silicon the coilpacks.

Hey all, I recently changed my spark plugs and checked up the spark plug numbers and it seems that they were platinums in my car. The part number is PFR6G and I took some pictures to ask you all to see if I should re-use these plugs or just throw them out? Oh and which part is the actual 'tip' of the plug that could be damaged? Is it the part off the hook or the tip that actually protrudes from the middle of the sparkie? I believe there was a small tip/nipple on the hook that I may have slightly rubbed/chipped off when checking for the gap, should I still use these plugs? Cheers all, Andy

Water temp seems to be normal, just abit under the half mark in the stock gauge. In the oil temp gauge its about 100c. I'm using Mobil 1 Gold.

Oil temps, I just suggested a coolant change as I'm assuming with cooler water running through the engine the oil temps might drop down too.

You forgot to mention the tourette's..

Bumping it up.

Its been a bit hot lately and I've noticed my Oil temperature gauge is reading slightly higher then the normal 90c mark, its been very close to 100c if not at 100c these past couple days. Just wondering if this is ok for the GTT Skyline? Should I perhaps do a coolant flush and replace the coolant?

I've looked and experimented with the DFA in the past Adriano, but as the DFA will end up costing $100 for unit+controller and another ~$200 for tuning it ends up costing a fair bit more then the <$100 solution to remove R&R. Well since Installation has been confirmed! The question is now: whos used one of these before on an RB25DET and what setting did you use? Or do I have to jump onto a dyno and individually test each one?

Wasn't implying anything about debating mate. I was just confirming/agreeing with what Paul said, to give you a better understanding. Yep you do pick up power where before the R&R limited it, but what Paul is trying to say is that theoretically it doesn't ADD any power as say a bigger turbo would. All it is doing is 'allowing' the car to make a natural progressive power run without the limiting of R&R, which in this case is producing more power then when it was limited by R&R. Its the same as an frount mount intercooler, fitting one doesn't actually INCREASE power. But if you're stock one is restricted and therefore limiting your power from its true potential, a bigger intercooler removes that restriction and in that sense ALLOWS your power to be increased but doesn't actually increase it. P.S - don't worry about hi-jacking. It's all good mate, the forum is for the community to use.

Paul's got it right Chris. Funny thing is I just bought that edition the other day and have been reading it today, the reason why they 'gained' power was due to the fact that they were hitting rich and retard (as Paul stated) thus giving them a very dodgy power curve. Have a look at the redline curve in the graph they put in the magazine, as soon as the power starts to build up, it suddenly dips because R&R is occuring - therefore limiting power. So once they installed the FCD and eliminated the R&R problem, a natural power build up was able to be achieved and thats how they peaked at 197kw compared to the R&R limited 151kw.

Got a link to this guide? I doubt the gains will be that much but I'd say it'd be a fair impovement if all you are getting is Rich and Retard once boost is increased. Having said that I just installed my boost controller and have yet to tune it, so once I will I'll see when R&R kicks in and if so will install the FCD and get a dyno run/tune afterwards. Will be sure to post results.

Could you perhaps elaborate abit more Paul? Also, does the FCD keep the preset voltage permanently or does it allow voltage UP TO the preset?

Should be in for this! Will be going with Tragic, so if possible could I get a ride off you N1 R33 GTR as well?

I thought I was right. So just put the FCD "in between" the ECU and AFM right? Hmm since we're on the topic, if it just keeps the AFM voltage at say.. ~4-4.5V what effects will this have? Leanning out of the car?

Installation has been confirmed! So the question is now: whos used one of these before on an RB25DET and what setting did you use? Or do I have to jump onto a dyno and individually test each one? Cheers, Andy

Hmm been thinking about this: so WHEN DO you need an upgraded AFM? The stock RB20/25 AFM can handle up to what power rating?

Well just so people know: I got the R33 tie-rod ends but they did not suit the R34 as they were too long, so we changed the steering rack arms (since one needed replacing anyway) to R33 ones as well and they bolted up perfectly.

SOLD

Gary, So whats the go if I wanted to get my GTT Turbo (VG30) hiflowed? In your first post it says this isn't for GTT/Neo turbos.

Price dropped to $250.

Just get some gasket paper, trace the stock BOV flange onto it and cut out the same shape. Make two holes for the bolts and put it between the stock BOV and where it sits. Viola.

Haha some buy them otherwise he will. EDIT: As requested heres a picture of the one minor rash.

If not sold I'd be interested in the holder.