Andi

Sorry mate it seems you are right, I didn't search for the right things. Well the new question would be: How do you suss out which coil is fried/gone?

Hey all, Before you all ask, yes - I've done research and have read quite abit. I've just a few questions that I would like to be confirmed/clarified. 1. I know its been said that 11psi is the LIMIT of the stock GTT turbo, but this has been said at period of 5-10minutes where the turbo is constantly under high boost and stress. If this is the case 12-13psi for quick squirts okay for the turbo here and now again? 2. With a full turbo back 3" exhaust (split dump, high flow cat, catback) and say 11-12psi worth of boost, what sort of power is achievable with these mods? Is 170-180rwkw out of the question? 3. With the above mods, is it really necessary to change the stock SMIC? I've read that the stock GTT sidemount IC can support up to 200rwkw so technically I shouldn't really have to change my IC system until I go past this figure yes? 4. When does the stock fuel pump usually give up? I know different cars have been through different lives but what is the average amount of rwkw's where the stock GTT pump begins to choke? 5. Same for the stock injectors? When do they start to go? I believe they are 370cc stock correct? My plans for the car are simply: turbo back exhaust, pod filter with a sealed airbox and a CAI path, 11-13psi with the supporting mods needed. At this point in time I don't think I'll be thinking of FMIC as the car is a daily driver and I'm quite sure anythign near 200rwkw will be enough (previous GTIR had 175kwatw and that was plentiful). I figured the money spent on FMIC would be better off used on a PFC instead. 6. Any other mods power wise I haven't taken into consideration yet? I will be of course looking into upgrading brakes, suspension components etc. as well. Cheers all, Andy

Hey all, Some of you may know that I've lately purcahsed an R34 GTT. Over the past few days I've noticed a slightly weird and annoying problem. It never happens during driving, only when I start the car up. What happens is when I turn on the car, the Check Engine light comes on and 1-2 seconds later the TCS Off and SLIP lights come on as well. During this I get a rough idle which feels like the car is only running on 5 cylinders, perhaps a spark plug or coil pack problem? Any how turning off and then on the car a few times doesn't seem to help, it only seems to go away after the car is off for a short period (15-30mins?) and then the car is all normal again: the idle is normal, drives fine and everything. I've done an ECU diagnostics comes up and the error code 2-1 comes up which I believe is Ignition Circuit? Can anybody help me out as I drive the car daily and when this does happen and I need to go somewhere I can't afford to wait for the problem to go away. Thanks in advance guys, Andy EDIT: After searching more extensively I have found out that it is indeed the coilpacks that is gone! So how do I go about checking which one is buggered?

Noise mainly depends on your cat-back system. If you would like a quiet exhaust I'd advise adding a mid-muffler (box type) between the cat and rear muffler. Most quiet exhaust bolt on systems (Trust PEII, Fujitsubo Legalis R etc.) have a rear muffler and mid-muffler. When I had my cat-back only on the GTIR the only increase in noise I noticed after adding a dump/front is that it was slightly more lower pitched, not quite more loud in volume. If you knwo what I mean.

As said above: Go with Michael's (BATMBL) split dump and front combined pipe in the Business Traders section. They are well designed and pre heat coated in mild steel. Definately choose the split/seperated dump if you want to reduce lag. Regarding the cats, if you have the money definately go for the Metal Cats or the 5" body metal insert Catco cats. Otherwise get a 3" hiflow cat from Xforce for around $160 delivered - this is what I'm doing as I'm only aiming for around 200rwkw.

No one interested in a perfect set of rims for the streets AND track?

Heres some pictures guys. Rays Engineering SE37A's. EVO R34 GTT Supra S14

Hey all I went to get an allignment and these are the settings/results that the camber and toe are currently set at: Camber (FR) -2'' 13' (negative 2, 13) Camber (FL) -1'' 14' (negative 1, 14) Toe (FR) about 0'01 Toe (FL) about 0'02 Does this sound about right? If not could anybody tell me what I should be aiming for? Reason asking is because the allignment wasn't actually complete because they didn't know what the settings were actually suppose to be at. Thanks, Andy

Heres new pictures as promised guys. What you think?

Thanks Pal, I didn't think the Diff could be heard/felt that loudly but now that you've mentioned tailshaft I'm even more scared. Any other opinion guys?

Hey all, I've got my wheels for sale, they are as stated in the title a set of Volk Racing SE37 rims. They are forged monoblock rims which are extremely light and are perfect for both track and road use. They are even lighter then the legendary TE37's according to wheelweights.net. They are 5x 114.3 stud pattern so suit Skylines, S14s, S15 etc. and have an offset of +38 all round. Fronts are 18x8.5" and rears are 18x9.5". I'll get pictures of the rims on my car tomorrow and will try to find pictures of what they look like on other cars as well. These are very very nice and light rims and are in excellent condition! I'm after NOW $2200 for the rims by themselves with no tyres but might have a set to go along with them if the buyer wants tyres as well. I'm located in Liverpool, Sydney and can be called on 0403 578 014 anytime to arrange an inspection. Cheers, Andy

I believe they mean from the cat two pipes run towards the rear of the car. So two pipes and two mufflers. I believe if its 2x 2.5" that equals to about one single 4" pipe? I've considered doing this as well but can't imagine it being too cheap. Since we're on the topic of exhaust (sorry to OP, don't mean to hijack) is a 3.5" fine for a GTT? Or should I just got 3"? I'm afraid 3.5" might be 'too' big?

Hey all, I've noticed that my car makes a weird noise when driving under load (high gears at low speed) or accelerating right down low in the rev range. Its towards the back of the car and ALOT more noticable when you're in the rear passenger seats. The noise is a loud whirring noise which can be felt through viabrations as well, more at the back then the front. I've also taken into consideration that it could be the exhaust at the rear, after sticking my ear out the window it did indeed sound like clashing/banging/rubbing metal. Could it perhaps be the exhaust on the chassis? Anyhow I guess I'm asking: if it was the diff could it be heard/felt through noise and viabration all the way to the driver seat? And what else or otehr symptoms can I look out for to see if the diff is really faulty? Thanks guys, Andy

Hey guys, thanks. Yeah I just picked it up tonight so there wasn't any sunlight for pictures. I'll post up new pictures tomorrow. Thanks Abo Bob, I think I'll post up a thread in the maintenence section to be more specific.

Hey all Tonight I picked up the R34 I was fairly interested in. Moving from a GTIR its quite a change, the car feels alot bigger but then again its very stable and feels safe. The R34 feels alot more 'smoother' as well. Only problem with the car is that when accelerating when the car is under load (high gear and low speed, or low speed and not in correct gear) we can hear this loud whirring/rattling noise in the back. Its much more noticable in the back seat and I at first thought it was the diff. But then after abit more driving and with the windows down it sounds like metal banging so I'm hoping its the stock exhaust being too close to the chassis or something. Could the problem above be the diff? Are the GTT's known to having diff problems? I didn't think so, and specially not at this at the amount of kms this car has done. Anyway the specs are: 1998 Model 32,000kms Manaul Xenon headlights Factory bodykit And everything else absolutely stock apart from: Zeal (I think) Coilovers 18' Volk Racing SE37 Rims Let me know what you think guys. Looking forward to enjoying these forums. Thanks, Andy EDIT: Updated with new pictures.

I know there are three different silvers in the R34 range. They are the athlete, sonic and sparkling silvers. Just wondering though, would somebody be able to post up all three colours or cars of those colours so a difference could be made? I believe the car I wish to purchase in a few days is athelete (kv2) silver and I've attached a picture of it, could somebody confirm? What colour is the Z-tune R34 then? Would that be sonic or sparkling? And what would the last colour look like then? Z-Tune R34: http://www.exoticcarsite.com/image.php?ima...34-z-tune-7.jpg Thanks all, Andy

Whoops, heres a pic of the chrome rims. I'll add it up top as well so there can be an easier comparison.

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm definatly set on the above rims but not sure what colour to get, it comes in the black and chrome. I seriously want black as the rim by itself looks so hot but I'm not sure how it'll look on the car I plan to buy. I've did two chops of the chrome and black - the chrome jobbie isn't as 'clean' as it was harder to get the spokes looking nice. But with that job I must say the black does suit it pretty well. Also I've read that theres two different silvers in the R34 range? Sparkling and Sonic? Does anybody have pictures to show the difference? Actually I think I'll start a new thread about this. But what are you opinions on the chops? I personally prefer black and even though the chrome looks good, its just too 'plain' imo if you know what I mean. Cheers, Andy

Bump.

Hey all, I'm after a black ProfecB II unit (just the control unit, not the cables or solenoid or anything) and want to swap it with my silver one. Reason being I bought it when there weren't any black ones and I want a black one to match my black Greddy turbo timer. My controller unit is in excellent condition with no damage at all. So anybody whos looking to change to silver or is about to get a brand new one, please get it in black and I'll swap you my silver one. Will be happy to pay $10-20 for efforts or a few acoholic beverages. Located in Liverpool Sydney so local or in Sydney would be great, just meet up and do a simple swap. But if someone interstate wants to help out that'd be great too. Thanks all, Andy

Hey there, What exhaust can you get foe R34 GT-T? I'd like it to be quiet but nice flowing. So something with a mid-muffler, and perhaps 3-3.5" piping would be nice I'm thinking somthing similar to Trust Power Extreme II? Delivered to Sydney thanks. Cheers Andy

Sorry when I said bolt on I was implying direct replacement, i.e. take off old component and 'bolt-on' new exhaust. Will have to consider it now as I thought it was straight swap. PM me with lowest price you're willing to sell or if you don't end up selling. Thanks, Andy

So its not a straight bolt on? The stock exhuast on the 34 GTT from cat to rear muffler is one piece then?

Straight bolt on for R34? Where you located in Sydney? Pick up asap for $150? Actually.. want to sell the whole cat back? Getting a pipe from cat to the above might be abit fussy.

Hey all, Should have a silver R34 coming into my hands pretty soon and I'm looking at a set of rims for the car. I've got my eyes on a set of rims, and in my opinion they look so nice. Just not sure how they would look on a silver/grey car? Your opinions? And does any body have pictures of their grey/silver cars with black rims on it? EDIT: I'm thinking of putting either rims on a Silver R34 GT-T. Now I'm not sure which version it is (sparkling or sonic) but its the same colour as the one posted down there. EDIT: I've added the chrome version for more opinions on which version I should get.