Andi

Hmm I'm definately going to try to settle for a 11.8:1 or 12:1 at MAX, thank god the emanage has igntion control too. I'll compensate by adding ignition.

So how do you get the handbrake to stay up when you want to park on a hill or something?

So how do you get the handbrake to stay up when you want to park on a hill or something?

Hmm theres a fair few opinions on whats a good afr. I'd like mine to be 11.8:1 or 12:1, nothing leaner than that. Just incase of a boost spike or something unnatural happening. I thought dyno runs were best done in 4th gear due to there almost 1:1 gear ratio?

You're fuel pump is on its way out mate. Get it replaced asap, shouldn't have to say how bad it is not to have any fuel going into your engine. Re: Injectors, it depends on how your injectors are. See if you can borrow a consult or find some other way of seeing what duty cycle they're running. Ideally 85-90% is what you'd like to run although 100% is fine too - theres just no chance of adding more fuel if your car needed it.

Yeah Blitz DSBC/SBC Type R, Greddy Profec B1 or Profec B2 would be the ones I'll get. ProfecB1 if you're especially after simplicity, just wire it up and adjust the knobs. One for Hi boost, one for Low boost and the other one to control gain. ProfecB2 is very similar to the DSBC although DSBC has 4 settings where as B2 only has 3. Both have gain control, display real-time boost with peak & warning function, twin/two solenoids. I'd get one of those 3 if I had the money. Haha turbotech MBC for me.

Exactly the reason why I chose the E-Manage over the SAFC or PFC. Much more control than SAFC (16x16 for both AFM and Ignition compared to 12rpm points) and a hell lot cheaper (1/3 the price and about 1/2 price in tuning) than a PFC for a GTiR. The E-Manage is what I consider just "perfect" for my car with "mild mods": Stock turbo with bit of boost, full turbo back exhaust, Pod with CAI and box, fuel pump, FPR.

Ben, sure the SAFC can provide a straight AFR curve/line throughout the whole rev-range but I haven't noticed anyone here stating how 12 points of adjustment (SAFC) is alot less compared to the 20x20 map of PFC. With the 20x20 map, usually TPS vs. RPM, you have much MUCH more potential in tuning the car. This doesn't mean the car will only go good on WOT but you'll also have control over cruise conditions, slightly accelerating etc. But in regards to mods, mild mods such as boost, full exhaust, IC, CAI - SAFC/E-Manage will be a more suitable choice, although there should still be much to gain if you do go PFC.

Stock R33 ECU's have self-learning capabilities? Your stock ECU should be fine with just pod and exhaust, but just an interceptor or a piggyback like E-Manage should be enough for your car. It really depends on how far you want to go mate. If you don't plan on changing turbos, injectors, afm etc. then a SAFC to change AFR's to more suitable levels (for both power and better fuel economy) should be enough, or if you want to do ignition as well get the E-Manage. Good to see you're doing comparisons with quater mile times though, power figures only go so far. 1/4 mile and trap speed all the way mate. And yeah the guys you raced are probably really crappy drivers. =\ Even if the engine was complete crap, I can't imagine ALL the skylines there had buggered engines. Low to mid 14's sound right on the mark for a R33 with pod, full exhaust and bit of boost in my opinion.

I'd say you've got it plumbed in wrong. Internally gates yes? Make sure you've got the boost controller setup properly, as in the plumbig in the engine bay. Seems like you've got all the air from the intake source going towards wastegate actuator thus making it boost at its lowest possible setting.

Hmm I've been quite keen to look into this, so roughly what are we looking at here for prices? And do these sensors go into the factory O2 sensor port? I'm reading into it now but a quick short cut to the basics wouldn't be so bad?

Awesome, got your car done at Matt's aye? Haha hes legendary for his SAFC tunes. I thought yours might of been one of the 4-5 cars he had lined up for SAFCII installation + tunes, but read you had yours done on Saturday instead. Getting my E-Manage tune by him this upcoming week hopefully. My Turbotech drops abit near topend too. It's set to about 15/16psi and once it goes above 5500-7500rpm it drops down to about 12-13psi, this is for second and third gear. First gear it only goes up to 13psi and drops to 11-12psi at 5500-7500rpm. Don't know why it only goes up to 13 in first gear though, pretty wierd. Is this normal Mark?

Brother had a Hi-flowed VL Turbo on it and it did seem to haul some ass. The car didn't seem to lag that much, but maybe because it was a RB25DET R33. Pretty punchy in my opinion.

Front pipe and dump made my exhaust more "deeper" in tone and I suppose you could say its more louder when giving it a hit too. That said its all personal preferance man. I've heard that the Kakimotos are extra quiet, and having a 5-Zigen myself they are known to be loud. My 5-Zigen Rocket one isn't too loud to be annoying (it's actually quiet from inside the cabin) and is loud enough to sound sweet from the outside and when I give it a hit. I can't remember what catback my brother had on his R33 but it was the best sounding turbo car I've ever heard. So freaking growly and mean. I'll try to find out for you.

Agree with predator, see what your plans are with the car first. If you're planning to go hard in the near future then get the PFC, much better investment. If you're not sure if you want to or you know you won't be modding for a long time or so, maybe the SAFC + Tune will be enough until you make up you're mind. It all comes down to what you have, what you want, when you want.

A daughter board allows you to put rom chips into your ECU, allowing you to make up you're own maps. The benefit of this way is that you can make a map especially suited to your car, input all timing, fuel, afm load points that suit you. However the downside is that everytime you want to make a change you have to take the romchip out of the ecu and "burn" a new map onto it, thus making this a very long process. I.e. Run, take out adjust, run, take out adjust... and you have to keep doing it until it gets right. Depending on how modded your car is, perhaps the SAFC is enough? I've only got a 3" turbo back, pod and plan to run abit of boost - with just these mods I didn't see the need for a full PFC (and I don't plan on trying to get anymore power) so I'm just going with the E-Manage route. A 16x16 map for both ignition and afm will be enough for a "mild tune" and I don't have to worry about other factory sensors such as AC, cold start, idle etc. Regarding the actual tuning, I'm going with Hitman. I've heard good stories from him and I don't doubt his abilities, having tuned Motec's Haltec's and PFC's. However I'm going the road-tune route, as I prefer to have my car tuned in the environment where my car is most spent at - i.e. the road. IMO dyno's are an artificial environment which doesn't take into account things like traction, wind resistance, temperature, road tarmac etc. Now I've probably just opened up a can of worms but for my car with just mild mods I don't find dyno "fine tuning" necessary as my car isn't making enough power that its critical to make sure that everything is perfect or you're going to end up with a broken engine. In regards to the SAFC, Matt (Hitman) does these like drinking water. Just when I was out there the other day he had 4-5 to do on that day and the following day. I believe the tune should be around $150-200 on the dyno if you've installed it yourself already. Hope this helps mate.

Yeah I think the previous units may not have been updated with latest firmware or something. I'm making sure I have 1.47 on there before I take it out there.

If the hose is nnew it shouldn't crack. Try dipping the end into some boiling water to expand it abit then fit the t-peice end and let it shrink back. 1mm difference won't do much I think.

How do you mean by it being a dud mate? It didn't work or it wasn't functioning properly? Has anybody come across problems when actually tuning the unit. I just got the unit (haven't installed yet) and when speaking to the tuner I was going to take it to he said he's had nothing but problems with the emanage. Said it doesn't do what you tell it to do. But that lead me to believe that maybe the ones he had experience with was buggy (last one he did was a few months ago - so hopefully firmware is better now?) or maybe because he can't tune it properly? But surely if you can tune PFC's well you should be able to tune an emanage right? So do you guys think maybe it was software?

Stock head has only a max power rating of 205rwkw? I'd be inclinded to believe that your example was perhaps a 'one-off' Alchemist? I'm sure plenty of other RB25 owners have had over 200rwkw running nicely, I mean even SR20's can take over 220rwkw before the head needs getting looked at. Barret - sound like a plan man! 250rwkw on the road should be a monster if its a street car.

As long as the turbo you're planning to fit is a direct replacement/bolt on to your engine than I won't see why the dump you got won't fit. As said, split dumps are for interanlly gated turbos.

I'll take it for $250 if its all working and in good condition as you say. PM already. Thanks.

If you've got the emanage tuned already I'd stick to the AVC-R. The ProfecE will just let you play around with the Emanage without having to use the support tool + laptop. In terms of performing to control boost, I'm not sure which is better between the AVC-R or ProfecE. Both are too complicated for me, I much prefer something like a ProfecB spec I or HKS EVC EZ.

Due to 10 pages I haven't been able to read all of it, but can these batteries be mounted in the boot?

You got it spot on Chirs, I asked this previously and Sydney kid said same thing. Boost level is irrelevant because its the amount of airflow the AFM detects. So say the amount of airflow you get at 5500rpm with 13psi can be the same as 4000rpm at 16psi.