Andi

Any thoughts on the overboost part people?

Would you really want to risk it for just 1 or 2 psi? Go get it checked out I say. And the fuel smell you're getting can be leaks in fuel lines or a faulty fuel regulator.

I thought the point was that if you're car was completely emission compliant that you wouldn't want that to change if you fitted the Magic Cat?

Perhaps our ones are just duds, many other people seem to be using them fine. At first it was working perfectly, but I then took it off the car because I didn't have proper fuel management - when I did have enough fuel I then lost the spring and ball. Mark's a top bloke so he sent me out a replacement spring and ball free of charge but now it doesn't hold the boost level properly. So not sure whats wrong.

Hey all, I tried my idea of having two boost settings by just turning on and off the factory solenoid. It works thankfuly. With stock set up you can have settings of 7psi and 10psi. I installed my spring-n-ball (Turbotech from Mark) MBC it doesn't hold boost the way I like it. What happens is say if I've got the MBC set to have the car run 12psi it will boost linearly up to 15-16psi at around 4100rpm and then drops down to 12psi and holds that until redline. When I flick the switch to the high boost level it does the same thing i.e. boost up to 18-19psi then drops to 15psi. I'm not 100% sure what rpm where 15-16psi and 18-19psi hits but I'm assuming/guessing it's around 4100rpm and 4400rpm respectively. That said, the level from the over-boost drops very quickly back to the set/prefered level. So are these boost levels ok at 4000-4500rpm? I've got the Bosch 984 and Sard FPR set to about 38psi base pressure (workshop manaul states it should be 36psi factory setting). I'm thinking topend (5000-75000rpm) is where too much boost isn't good and where AFR's are extremely important, but I'm not sure about midrange 4000-5000rpm so I'm keen for your opinions. Thanks guys! Andy

Bump. Still for sale.

Indeedy! What happened? Very interested to hear results.

Err I'm not sure how a BOV is suppose to work on an auto but with a manaul it lets off when you let off the gas, i.e when throttle body is closing. So hows it suppose to let off if you just keep your foot on the accelerator? Maybe that has something to do with it.

A perfectly working GTiR pump that was never run on anything more than stock boost. Awesome units that can be used for S13's or 180SX's very well. Price drop: now $90 delivered. PM or Call me on 0403578014 Thanks

I believe its just a pipe that vents the wastegate, be it internal or external, to the atmosphere.

Can you get a AP PFC for RNN14 with group buy prices? If so how much?

Just as I thought then, no worries. Just a question though, how come I've got the boost source from my intake manifold going into the left side port (where you marked the red dot) but in your setup you've got the boost source (assuming I'm on the right track here) going into the other side on the solenoid?

Thanks again SK, So does that mean I'll have the original line/hose 5 removed completely from the circuit? Or would I use that to now connect the yellow dot back to the air intake? Also, when you said restrictor you just mean the vent size yeah? So if I was using a T-piece there it'd just be the end that I've soldered and drilled to 2mm? Thanks for your help buddy.

Hey people, I took the car for a drive even without the P&H kit connected as SK suggested and surprisingly enough input ranges from 1-64 throughout the whole revrange! I'm still not getting any boost control though. The attached picture shows exactly how my set up is done except I've got lines 8 and 9 switched around. So I had the line from the intake manifold going into the right side port of the solenoid, and the left side port was connected to the T-piece. With the left side of the T-piece going to the wastegate and the right side going towards the air intake. Having a look at your pictures though, and the picture posted up before, I don't seem to have any "restrictor" in my setup. Am I suppose to have one? Well with the stock T-piece I was getting unlimited boost (would have gone over 20psi if we didn't stop) and I had no control whatsoever over boost, even if I put 100% output through all 64 load points. We then used a ~1.75mm vent size (original t-piece was around 4mm!) and boost was then restricted to only 13/14psi and wouldn't not go over that, still no control over boost. A 2mm vent size was used next and boost was now a peak value of 17/18psi and still no luck controlling boost. What I did was had the LOW setting with 100% output throughout all 64 load points and on HIGH setting it was 0% output throughout all 64 low points. With all 3 vent sizes switching between LOW and HIGH made no difference. Any idea on what could be wrong? I was inclined to think there was something wrong with the construction of the unit but I was thinking that if one component didn't work properly then the whole unit shouldn't work all together. I then thought it may have been the solenoid that was faulty but having the LOW at all 100% and HIGH at all 0% switching between the two while the engine was on showed that the solenoid was working, it was clicking everytime we switched from HIGH to LOW and vice versa. Also I've got a Bosch 984 fuel pump and a Sard FPR set at 38psi base pressure so I don't think I may have done too much damage (if any), and we were only at 17/18psi for a few seconds total maximum. Hehe I'm not that stupid, I hope. Thanks people! I really do appreciate everyones help. EDIT: Maybe adding the picture would actually help. *smacks head*

Aren't you suppose to have another T-piece in between the original T-piece and wastegate acting as a vent?

Also SK, I hope you don't mind helping me about abit. I've arleady built the P&H Injectors Kit but haven't installed yet. Reading the fitting instructions I'm confused on how I'm suppose to install it, pg.108 iirc, it says I have to use the 12V-feed side of the injectors instead of the switched side or something. Would you be able to have a quick whizz through the fitting part for it and tell me how I'm suppose to connect it? Do I just cut the ECU injector wire and go from there?

Thats exactly how its connected SK, and I just removed the bullet conenctors then. Still same thing, with the DFA on its reading fine and when the 12V is connected it goes stupid. I measured the voltages from both sides. The input side of the DFA (coming from AFM) would read 0v and the output (to ECU) would read ~3.4V, if the DFA is off then both sides read an even ~1.3-1.4V

Thanks for that Chris, I think it may actually be the bullet connection but I just dont understand why it runs fine when the DFA is off and then goes stupid when the DFA is on. I'm using connectors so that I can revert back to the stock AFM setup if something goes wrong with the AFM.

Ok guys I've ran into a little problem. The DFA is sort of playing up on me. So I've connected everything needed to the DFA (AFM wire from AFM to input, and to ECU connected to output, 12V on ignition and ground on chassis). When the car is running with the DFA off everything is fine, however as soon as I turn the DFA on it starts revving higher and won't come down. I played around with the AFM connections and it seems to do this when the AFM wire connections are moved abit (I'm using bullet connectors). Would anybody know whats happening? I've tested the DFA on the bench already and it seems to work fine, although I'm running the test again now. Could it be because I'm using the chassis as a ground? Thanks, Andy P.S My car has low impedance peak-and-hold injectors and I connected the IEBC without the peak injector kit and it seems to read fine. :S It's about 6 input at idle and when I rev it abit it jumps up, but its not randomly changing numbers. This means the IEBC is working correctly right?

Thanks SK! Looks like I won't have to tune the stock solenoid then. Oh and I guess I should remove the resistor I put in as well? I thought my solenoid was a 'normally open' sloenoid. :oops:

Hmm I put the resistor in series with my GTiR stock solenoid already. It was getting hot when I left it connected to a 12V power source for about 10-15mins. Can I still just leave the resistor in place? Also, whats this "tuning" for the iEBC and solenoid? I don't have a DMM with frequency readouts so how am I suppose to tune the iEBC? Can I just put it in without the tuning? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Anybody?

Some solenoids (NOT the standard Nissan ones) don't like being held open for long periods of time and they get hot. So you use the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the solenoid to "share" the load. That way the solenoid draws less current and doesn't get too hot. PS; for more details refer to page 142 of the book "Performance Electronics for Cars". <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hmm I put the resistor in series with my GTiR stock solenoid already. It was getting hot when I left it connected to a 12V power source for about 10-15mins. Can I still just leave the resistor in place? Also, whats this "tuning" for the iEBC and solenoid? I don't have a DMM with frequency readouts so how am I suppose to tune the iEBC? Can I just put it in without the tuning?

I don't think there soft compound assuming race tyres are soft compound.

Bump people!

Hahah dump pipe reduce power? What is he smoking? PFC will be around $1000-12000 (estimating) and find a good well known tuner!! The ECU is only as good as the tuner!