Andi

Thanks for the feedback guys, please keep them coming. Trav33 can you please provide updates once you're clutch is run-in and you've been driving it a for a bit? I'm currently deciding between this clutch and a rebuild of a Nismo Gmax Twin Plate clutch.

So will the diff be a straight swap for a standard R34 GTT one now Adam? Open up the stock one, take out the internals and put this one in the stock housing?

Just had a talk to Ian today (monkeyplunk) and I think his convinced me to come. I'll be sorting out my NSW membership and will be paying for this soon.

You're better off getting an East Bear one from Poweplay. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...tbear%26hl%3Den

Guys, I just put 18x9 +29 and 18x10 +30 GT-C (so they're pretty much the same as these) and my ride height is 360mm front and 355mm rear and I haven't rolled the guards, they are fine. No scrubbing as of yet.

As title states I've got a pair of tyres for sale. They are Nankang Ultrasports NS-II's and they are 265/35/R18. One is brand new and the other one is around 60-70% tread. After a quick sale so $200 FIRM for both, this is a good price considering a brand new tyre in this size is $200 alone. Or will sell the brand new one for $140 and the second hand one for $80. Pickup in St Johns Park/Liverpool, Sydney only please. Cheers, Andy 0431 789 454

It seems that I can use both spring seat and base height adjustment methods for this coilover, so what I would like to know is: Which method should I use? Spring seat or Base height adjustments? Cheers!

Just the sides mate, and front and rear of boot, don't need boot mat.

Hey Danny got a pic of the white ones on the parkers?

I agree with Nismoid, with the current turbo setup you ain't going to get anything more responsive then that. Poncams on a NEO engine should net you a beefier torque curve giving you better response, but apart from changing the turbo there isn't going to be much more you can do. What power output are you pushing now? Yep if you're going to take it to the track definately look into the engine oil modifications, oil cooler, new radiator, bigger brakes, braided lines, master stopper etc. But apart from that I'd say what you listed up there is a great all round package.

Clutch is definately triple plate? I'm interested but would be keen if it was actually a twin. Haha. Are you willing to take the clutch to shop to have it inspected?

I bloody agree, this IS rediculous. Shan you've come back after being missing for a VERY long time to post one post and a few PM's but now you've gone to dissappear again? Come on mate it ain't THAT hard to get a few refunds out via internet banking or to send a few items out mate. I understand it might take some time due to the few errors, but it sure as hell shouldn't be taking more then 6+ months mate. Sorry but I am getting very aggravated by the constant delays.

SOLD

Damnit Birnie beat me.

I would of tried searching for your answers in each different area. You would have eventually come up with the results. 1. Nope those mods should be fine with stock ECU. 2. Simply never run more then 12psi other wise you'll kill your stock turbo. Your turbo will run out of puff before your engine does. 3. Not that I know of? I'm pretty sure the box similar to the R33 GTS-T box which means it should be fairly well built and should be able to take a good thrashing. 4. Depends what you want to do? If its just a street car I say just get some decents pads with good fluid. The stock rotors are 310mm so are more then enough, front calipers are 4 pot as well. If you want to go a step further just get some braided lines and a master cylinder stopper. 5. Generally a lot of knocking and clunking means the coilovers are busted. Then again your suspension can be very stiff which results in a 'noisy' ride. 6. For simplicity, PFC is the way to go. Straight bolt in with a 20x20 ignition and fuel map. A bit hard to find now a days though.

Hey all, I was just wondering who had this specific clutch? Its being sold by Slide and was previously sold by C&B and its the 5-puck 'button' clutch which apparently handles up to 300rwkw. I was just after some opinions and feedback of those who have or have used it; I want to know how it was for daily driving and how its held up at the track/drags. How is the pedal feel and how is it on take off, any shuddering? If so how much? Sorry for the 21 question guys. I tried searching but apart from a few post that said that they were fitting them there wasn't much feedback about them at all. Cheers, Andy

HKS GT2530 for the win. Blistering response, I think it would be just the same as stock turbo if not better. But it does run out of air up top, I think from research it dies from ~-5500rpm, but that saves you having to go to redline all the time. Just for an opinion, I just installed a GT-RS and running on just the HKS actuator I can't tell a difference between the stock turbo with tuned EBC and the GTRS in terms of lag.

Birnie I'm going 440cc bolt-ons for the GTT because I don't plan to go for anymore power then what my GTRS can push out, it will hopefully be enough to provide to close the max of the turbos potential. Hopefully having no more room for power due to the squirters maxing out will make not spend anymore money.. hahah hopefully

Hi mate, prices for front + rear rotors for the GT-T please. In both slotted and slotted+dimple version please. I know you said theres no 310mm but would the 296mm for the R33 GTS-T fit the GTT fine? Thanks, Andy

Car is now $10,900 firm as it comes with 1 year rego.

Some quick questions guys. Very interested. 1. I'm thinking of buying the LS2 license and joining SAU NSW. Can I use the LS2 license for any track day at Oran Park/Wakefield/Eastern Creek? Or for LS2 organised events only? 2. Anyone interested in driving my car up there? I don't have a license atm but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to drive on the track? 3. How much tread am I going to be needing? Is it usually possible to drive there, track the car, then drive home? Cheers, Andy

Get the 555cc, they will be just right, should be at around 60-70% duty cycle at 280rwkw?

Hey Benny, did you get a price for the boot trim yet?

If you'd like to 'save' money to buy a GTT then don't mod the R33. Seriously it IS an addiction. You start by just spending a bit here, then you'll run into a problem with this, and then get something else to fix that, then since you're doing that you might as well do this. It can start to end up being pretty expensive when you start to mod the car. In your feet I would not save up for a GTT as the amount of money you'd have to save up to put ontop of the sale of your car to get the GTT can be used on your GTS-T to make it a weapon. Say in at the end of next year the the average price of a GTS-T is around ~12k and the price of a GTT drops to say ~20k. Thats around $8000 you can spend to make your car a much nicer car then a fairly standard GTT. Plus you'd have been able to keep the car for that time and enjoy it for that long. Thats just my opinion though.

Thought I'd save some bandwidth and revive this thread instead of making a new one. Thread Revival FTW! From research it seems that the HKS GT-RS has the exact same specifcations as the Garrett GT2871R 52T Compressor. If thats the case and assuming that the Skyline version has the same compressor but a custom 0.64 T3 turbine housing, then would someone now be able to tell me the optimal boost range of the GT-RS if I've got the compressor map? Well here it is. I'd just like to know what kind of boost I should run when I get the car onto the dyno for a tune.