Andi

+1 for Profec B II here. Excellent EBC, I have previously used a turbotech as well. The turbotech is great bang for your buck and I'd get it just to up the boost temporarily until you could afford an EBC. Wouldn't definately prefer EBC over a MBC as most of the people above have said: the ability to control how long the wastegate stays closed before opening up is a godsend, it makes the boost come on MUCH harder, or softer if you prefer.

Interested in rear boot trim, the grey stuff that goes around the boot. This avaliable and if so how much to 2177 NSW?

Hey guys I've got a few questions about my HKS Adjustable Actuator thats on the GTRS turbo. I've currently got a Profec B II installed as well. 1. Given that when the EBC is off and I give the car a hit I only see a max of 7psi does this mean the HKS actuator is set to 7psi at the moment? 2. So to tell the current boost setting of the actutor I just leave the EBC off? 3. The rod seems slightly wiggly and I can slightly rotate the it, as well as this the small pin/washer that holds the rod to the exhaust/turbine housing (pictured below) is very loose. Is this normal? If not what can I do to fix it? 4. When adjusting the rod: shorter = higher minimum boost yes? longer = lower minimum boost? 5. I assume that an EBC + the HKS actuator is the best setup? Instead of just relying on the actuator alone, where it only acts as a spring to keep the wastegate flap closed and could potentially be slowing down boost build up acceleration? I'd really like to make the base or minimum boost around 1Bar/14.7psi as I plan to run anywhere from 18-22psi when I get a tune so I'd like the EBC to do as less work as possible in hope of achieving a flatter boost curver. Cheers, Andy

nizmo, the lines are from the GT-RS kit, it was second hand but its what came with the kit originally. Manwhore, its just resting against it. Like theres a natural bend in the line and that pipe stops it from doing its full bend, the coolant feed is sitting on that line as well though you can't see it in the picture. I'll bleed the system, the amount of coolant that came out was probably wasn't much because as long as I was holding the braided line up it no more would come out until I bent the line lower allowing coolant to spill out.

Man thermal wrapping is expensive, I just unpluged the line and relocated. Much to my surprise it wasn't much coolant pissing out at all so its not bad. Its just sitting on the same metal lines the oil feed is. I just realised I didn't attach the picture in the last post, Manwhore can you have a look at this and tell me if its okay for the lines to sitting on this pipe? Hey Manwhore I would like to do it but I can't atm as the car doesn't have wheels with proper tyres on it. I'll shall be getting new wheels next week and I'll let you know then.

I just took the car for a quick run, its sounding good, drives fine. Damn the induction is LOUD, I like it. There was abit of smoke/steam still coming out of the engine bay and upon closer inspection its directly where the dump bolts up to the turbo. I think it may be the Ultrablue 77B thats burning up, I put it on the dumpside gasket cos thats what the guy at the exhaust shop told me to do. Said it was sensor safe and should be fine. :paranoid:

Thanks for input guys. I've managed to play with the water/coolant feed line and its no longer touching the dump but is now resting against the gearbox housing, this is okay Manwhore? Its abit hard to manuvoure it without disconnecting the line which would mean coolant pissing out everywhere. I checked my coolant return and that doesn't seem to be touching anything so thats fine, but the oil feed line is touching a pipe. I think it may be one of those AC pipes, heres a picture to show. Should this be okay? Sorry for all the questions guys, this is the first time I've installed a turbo and I'd like it not to die on me. EDIT: Joe, when you say insulation what do you suggest to use? I wouldn't mind doing the coolant feed line as it is fairly close to the dump pipe.

Thanks for the quick reply Manwhore. So make sure ALL the lines are clear yes? Its okay for the rubber/silicon water feed line to be touching the block of couse right? I re-inserted it back into the coilpack cover thing.

Sorry no more pictures, the turbo is in the car now with everything bolted up. I primed the turbo by unplugging the CAS and kept cranking until I saw oil pressure. Then I started her up and let her idle for 10 minutes. I threw a cardboard mat underneath to check for leaks and thankfully it didn't seem like anything was leaking but it was abit dark so I'll make sure again tomorrow. That said, I do have one concern. I smelt something in the engine bay like it was a light burning/cooking smell, I think its the water line or something. I flushed the coolant and poured a whole new bottle of Nulon Red 5 Year Concentrate 2.5L with ~3.5L of Distilled water, could this be the smell? Also, I've noticed that some of my braided lines are abit long. Are they suppose to touch nothing else at all? My water feed hose off the block goes all the way around to the turbo side and connects to the braided line to the turbo just abit under the rocker cover, is this okay? Again thanks all for the advice! Really appreciate it as its helped me heaps. EDIT: forgot to say that some of the lines are sitting on other things. Like the water/coolant braided feed is sitting against the dump pipe, and the oil feed is sitting against the turbo etc. I did make sure none of the lines are touching anything that could potentially melt/burn. Is it okay to leave it against metal things?

Cool, Got a part numer Manwhore? I just used teflon on the bolt<->line connection. Also how much am I suppose to tighten the banjo bolts? Keep on going until it 'feels' tight enough or until it stops? Cheers!

Thanks guys. Got some copper washers from Pirtek and got the turbo off yesterday. Heres some pictures of stock and the GTRS side by side. I got some teflon tape as well, should I bother using it on the bolts? Pirtek guys told me I should use it for the coolant feed line where the silicon line joins the braided line with an adaptor. And where can I get a gasket for the oil drain adaptor? Or can I just use any old gasket paper cut out ot the right shape?

There was a set of Koya Inox 1's in black not long ago in the for sale section.

Good call hahah new sig for me.

Haha must be late, don't know why but that made me bloody laugh.

Oh I forgot: How many bolts with a oil restrictor should there be? Is it just 2? Both being the oil feed line, one on turbo and the other on the block? I only got one bolt with a restrictor, can I just re-use a stock bolt on the block if one is there?

Hey guys, I've started taking off my stock turbo and at the moment everything is unbolted ready to be pulled off except for the damn water/coolant feed line, those brackets that hold the lines steady are f*ckers to get off being behind the engine and all. Anyway with the new braided lines and banjo bolts I wanted to know whether or not I had to try to line up the hole in the bolt to the hole off the line? I'm guessing to do this I'll mark the top of the bolt with a market or something and make sure its running straight with the lines? Or would the oil/water run 'around' the inside of the braided line ending (whats this called?) and find its way through the hole? Also, I seemed to have only recieved 2 thick (I mean alot thicker than the standard ones) copper washers. I'm planning to buy a whole bunch of new ones instead of using the standard ones and afaik copper washes are curved and need to be crushed. So does it matter which way I put the washer on or does the curve side have to faced specifically? Can I just use thin ones I can get from any auto store or do I need to find THICK ones like the 2 that came with my turbo? And lastly, where can I get a oil drain gasket? It's that weird diamond looking shape thing? Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance. Would really like to get this all done by tomorrow. Thanks, Andy

Location buddy?

Haha Nathaniel you bastard. How much did you get it for? Just so I can get a rough idea how much it'll cost. I'm thinking of DIY'ing the repairs.

One rail or two? Drivers or passenger? And lastly to suit GTT or GTR?

Definately mate. It goes well with the Atila/Nismo kit.

Location? I'm after the 2 interior pieces. The centre console assembly and the surround that covers the gearbox tunnel, it the piece that 'wraps' around the din/facia/gearshit area and looks like it blends into the dash.

What models are the subs?

Hi Jason, what are you mostly be going to be using your car for? I remember you telling me about the setup you had and even though it wasn't a proper tune when you took me for a ride it was still pretty beasty. I've read alot about clutches lately and some say that when upgrading to a clutch with a higher clamping pressure plate, you should get a stronger flywheel too. So if you don't want the problems of a light flywheel just get a heavier stronger flywheel .

Most likely the input shaft bearing then. How much does this part cost? And is it an easy job to replace? Say I'm paying a Workshop to fit my clutch in and since the box is out, how much might it cost to get them to open it up and replace the bearing? What causes failure to these parts by the way? I don't want to have to replace the part only to have it end up failing again.

Hey guys I've been thinking about how to go about stopping my cars frontbar/lip from stratching so much and the only solution (apart from raising the car) would be to actual mod my front lip. Now the reason I need to do this is because: 1. its too damn low obviously 2. its wasn't made for my front bar so it doesn't sit properly 3. as it doesn't sit properly its hanging lower then my skirts and doesn't line up with the kit properly A photo has been attached to show you what I mean. So given this it looks like I have to actually CUT the parts of the lip off to get it at the right angle and height. So my question is: what are you opinions on cutting fibreglass? What can I use to cut/remove the un-wanted parts of the fibreglass lip to the right height before I refill the gaps left over from the surgery?