Andi

I've owned a GTT for abit over a year now, only driven it for about 6 months though haha long story. Brother use to have a R33 Series 1.5 and it was a very nice car, clean interior, excellent engine and chassis was great too. Having that said I personally do prefer the R34 over the R33 because in my opinion; it looks nicer and has a nicer interior and I've always had a soft spot for the R34 shape. But if I was you, I wouldn't sell your car and spend another $8-10k to get an R34, its not that much of an upgrade in my opinon and isn't worth it. I'd rather spend that amount to make your current car a MUCH NICER ride that you'll enjoy alot more then a close-to-stock R34 that is only marginally better than your car. I mean spend 5-10k on your R33 and you'd have a weapon that would make you smile everytime you get in the car. EDIT: good choice, finish Uni first IMO before deciding to upgrade. Unless you are COMPLETELY sick of the car and can't stand it anymore then I wouldn't sell it, just keep it the way it is and save up for something better in future. I still love my car and plan to keep it for at least another 2 years so I'm going hard at the mods (well hard in my books, haha I'm a Uni student too).

Ok I've just about been reading everything thread on "whirring" "thrust" or "input shaft" that came up when I searched for an hour, and I'm still very confused as there are lot of people saying opposite things. The symptoms of my car is this: Car in neutral with clutch OUT: whirring noise occurs Car in neutral with clutch DEPRESSED: noise dissappears and no other noise present Car in gear: no noticable noise except at strictly 2000-2500rpm where a rattling noise occurs. Although not sure if this is the Diff or Gearbox. I would like to know if this is a thrust bearing or input shaft bearing problem? As far as I know, to replace the input shaft bearing its a matter of opening the gearbox yes? And to replace the thurst bearing, it doesn't require the gearbox to be opened but can be done when changing the clutch? I will be replacing my clutch in the near future as I believe it is still the stock clutch and I am upgrading the turbo, and as these parts are ~$20-40 (correct?) I would like to fix this problem. Thanks, Andy

Nick, whats involved in fitting these in an R34 GTT? I think I saw a GTT for sale last year with these seats in the car so I'm pretty sure they do fit.

I must say the SAU search function is sucky, makes it hard to search for specific R34 GTT related stuff as it doesn't allow for words under 4 letters, the wildcard * option doesn't work as well either. Any how what I would like to know is: What kind of Diff is the R34 GTT Manaul 5-Speed one? Is it one of those A-LSD things? And what kind of oil should I be using in it? I think my one atm has the wrong oil or not enough as at around 2000-2500rpm it makes a rattling noise. Any help will be appreicated. Thanks, Andy

Cams do look tasty but I think I'll be leaving that for a secondary stage of mods, first being the turbo, injectors, afm and pfc. Second might be cams, splitfire coils, plenum. Beeble, any luck with getting those graphs yet?

Gary, can I get the prices for Front and Rear swaybars delivered to 2177 NSW please? For both fixed and adjustable please.

Still waiting for refund Shan. Did you get my reply PM with my bank details?

Okay guys, Need to raise the car up as its too low. I've had a search yes, but the only revelant pictures I found were for Tein's and my buddy clubs seem to be different. Given the picture below, what do I adjust to change the height? - The spring platform with the extra lock ring? This would be raising it up correct? Wouldn't this be compressing the springs together? - Or do I take out the base of the strut and try to rotate that down to increase the strut length to raise the car? I think I can use both methods? I want to know which is preffered method to use though. So should I use the spring seat or base height adjustments?

Would the rear seats fit a 2-door?

Add me to type B list please, one for an R34 GTT.

Haha Richard your opinion was as good as anyones given the crappy first picture I posted up.

More pictures added up top. http://carportrait.com.au/joomla6/index.ph...8&Itemid=27

I agree with you Daniel, without the rearbar or skirts the Wing helps. Heres some pictures of my car. More avaliable here: http://carportrait.com.au/joomla6/index.ph...8&Itemid=27

Thanks Al I wasn't sure if you wanted me to post your one up or not. Guys which rear exhaust housings do you have? I seem to have the .64 one (stamped onto mine) but I was under the impression that the Skyline GTRS's came with .86 housings?

Ok I got the turbo in the mail and had a good look. Its actually not a washer bent up but it is a chunk missing out of the centre. The turbo did have the CHRA replaced by Racepace so I'm assuming the chunk could have been taken out for balancing purposes? Heres some slighty more detailed pictures. The scary part is I'm not sure if its actually been ground out on purpose, the feel of it feels like it broke off. It's got that rough clean cut feeling to it like if you broke off a corner of a brick.

Yeah you should of got them from Aaron (Slide), its abit more expensive but you get them much cheaper and you're buying from a local Sponsor. Anyway yep its good to get them if you're thinking from future proof perspective but I would of used that money to go towards up for a PFC as that would of been alot more 'future proof' then the splitfires in my opinion. I'm more of a "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of guy, so a lot cheaper way of seeing if you actually needed the coils or not would have been to do what R31Nismoid suggested - swap your set for a set which you know is working from antoher car then see if the problem is still there. Oh and just fyi, I had the same problem. It was all stuttery and felt like crap when I was above about 4000rpm hard on the throttle, initially thought it was coilpacks as well but when I fit the PFC in the problem went away - so must of been R&R. Hopefully won't have to change the coils, but we'll see that when I wind up the boost abit on a new turbo.

Want to post a picture? Never heard of a Kiminari kit before, we could help you better if we knew what it looks like.

No one has any GT-RS graphs?

Hey Con, Definately PFC would be the biggest difference, just because it removed the factory R&R protection that got very annoying once I did exhaust, fmic and some boost. From Liverpool area mate.

I agree, even if you are limited to 250-260rwkw with a hiflow/GT25/GT28 unit thats only the peak power figure. It'd be the power and torque curves of the turbo that will show you where the mid-range of the turbo would be alot different I reckon.

I'm having mine cleaned, flow tested and tested for latency when I get them. An EFI store in Casula quoted me $22 incl. GST over the phone for a service on each injector, thats ultrasonic clean, flow test and replaced pintle caps and o-rings.

I don't think theres a definate answer. It depends on the condition of your stock hose as well. If you don't want it to suck close then simply prevent it. Either get a metal intake pipe or cut the stock pipe where it usually gets sucked closed and replace that with a metal bend there. Thats what they did in one of the HPI videos and it worked well, retained the stock look as well.

Whoops I forgot to mention what I've got done to my car atm. - 3" SS split dump - 3" SS hiflow cat - 3.5" trust cat back - apexi pod - K&J tube and fin fmic with 2.5" piping - greddy profec b 2 - bosch 040 pump - power fc Goes really well and once I get the PFC tuned for those mods it should be even better and should keep me satisfied for a few months before having to bolt on my new turbo. I just think its a waste if you go straight to changing the turbo when you haven't fully explored the limits of your standard one, who knows thats just me though.

Next mod I'd do for your car would be fuel pump and to look for a Power FC. You'll definately need a PFC (or some other form of aftermarket management) if you want to fully utilise your new turbo. I've already got a HKS GT-RS on the way, but I won't be putting that on to much later. I figured I'd like to get all supsension and braking mods done and then fully utilise the standard turbo first before bolting up a bigger turbo. Your car would be a nice street weapon even with the stock turbo if you get decent suspension (shocks/springs/coilovers, swaybars front and rear, front caster kit, front and rear caster kit, pineapples/subframe cradle bushes) and some nice brake pads as the stock 310mm rotors and calipers of the GTT are fairly good from factory.

Hey all, First off, I've done heaps of research already. This isn't a thread asking about what turbo should I get, as I've already decided upon the GT-RS and I've got one coming already. I'm just simply after dyno graphs so I can see an analyse the power, torque and boost curves and to compare each one to the other. I'm just trying to see what others have and what seems to work best so I can get the best out of my turbo when it goes on. Already have looked through the entire RB25 Turbo Upgrade thread, but since most of the pictures there don't work anymore and only peak power figures are written down I'm starting this thread up as I'm more interested in the shape of the power/boost/torque curves. So all you HKS GTRS owners out there, please post up your dyno graphs and list your modifications as well as boost level your running. I'm after RB25 specifically but RB20/RB20DET people please post as well as it will be a useful comparison. All help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy