Andi

No problems mate, I've been where you are before so I'm glad to help. What modifications have you got at the moment?

Oh forgot to mention that you should at least have these parts to fully take advantage of your new turbo - stand alone ecu/computer - turbo back exhaust with a good cat - boost controller, electronic one better (AVC-R is good) - fmic (good since your getting one) - decent fuel pump, like a bosch - injectors, nismo make 480cc, sard make 650cc and up - afm, either a Q45 or Z32 one And perhaps: - Tomei poncams - Splitfire coil packs Don't forget to upgrade your brakes and suspension as well. No point having all that power and to not be able to use it properly.

You could raise it, but just abit. You'll end up hitting the stock ECU's saftey mechanism (rich and retard) when it detects too much airflow via the AFM. So you'll be maxing out your injectors and afm as well. You're mechanic is wise, run no more then 12psi for constant acceleration. Any higher and the stock ceramic turbine wheel will fly out into your exhaust, 13-14psi may be okay for quick burst only. If you're after a turbo for good power and decent responsiveness then hiflow is the way to go. Anywhere from 230-260rwkw and full boost from anywhere between 3000-4000rpm depending on the turbo/setup/etc. The HKS bolt on option are good as well, have a look into them. Theres a few for sale atm. HKS GT2530, GT2535, HKS GT-RS etc. I know its been said before alot of times but seriously do a search, there were 2 threads asking the same question not long ago. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=166028 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2&hl=hiflow http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5&hl=hiflow

You prob ain't going to get that unless you go get it from URAS or Eastbear (Powerplay - Tosh I think). I don't think their cheap either.

Nice pics anDru, I think Stan (satanic) had one for sale in the FS section not long ago, have a look. I'm usually not a fan of the bomex kit but when its in black it actually looks not bad. And I was wondering what my car would like look if it was raised too high (need to raise it cos front is way too low) but after seeing that I'm going to jack it up to 360/350 no hesitation, its currently 345/345.

Do the statements above not imply that you DON'T WANT a turbo that will spool up quickly (i.e. Laggy) because you "don't want to be on boost all the time"? Then on the other hand you EXPECT to find a turbo that will HAVE NO LAG and instant power when you boot it (i.e. Responsive)? How the hell do you have a turbo that is BOTH laggy and responsive? This is why I'm saying you're contradicting yourself! For gods sake listen to what the people above are telling you! 1. Accept the fact that you CAN'T have a LAGGY + RESPONSIVE turbo! Its one or the other! 2. What you want is a fairly RESPONSIVE turbo so you will not have to wait long when you hit the accelerator. This DOES NOT mean you will be on boost all the time! Just learn HOW TO DRIVE with a light right foot to keep it off boost! 3. You also want a turbo that will not be die at the top end yes? 4. Then the appropiate choices of turbos would be: a hiflowed standard turbo, HKS 2835 Pro S, HKS GT-RS etc. Any of these will give you more then enough power you need in a street car, and you won't have "maxed out the turbo" and you WILL have a decent "spool up time".

Its a contradiction in itself when you say "I want to find a turbo that has the most power possible with minimal acceptable lag" as you have to give up either reposniveness or power in order to gain the other. And like a said before, you can still have shit load of power (240-260rwkw) at not much more lag then the stock turbo and this doesn't mean it'll always be boosting, it all depends on how you drive with your right foot.

By saying "when did i say i want an internally gated turbo?!" did you not mean that you want an external gate turbo? I really don't know where you're going with that. Anyway it doesn't matter how responsive your turbo is, you can drive around on the stock turbo and keep it from boost. Its called your right foot.

Is the 3' exhaust from the turbo back? If not I'd suggest thats the first thing you should do, complete the exhaust. Then get boost controler, fmic and fuel pump as yours is a R32 and should be getting old. If you got spare change, spend it on brakes or suspension.

"When did I say I wanted an internally gated turbo?!" Yet in the first post you wrote: "I want to keep the stock manifold?" Haha abit contradicting mate. Anyhow if you're car is a street then you'd want to go the hiflow route or HKS GT-RS/GT2530/2535 as alot of the members have already said: they're power band is much more suited for the streets. You're looking at anywhere from 220-250rwkw with the 2530/2535 and around 230-260rwkw with the GT-RS, the peak power may not be as high as you want but its the mid-range punch that counts. Any of these turbo should get you into the low-mid 12's 1/4 mile and wouldn't you say thats plenty for a street car? And why change the read diff cradle bushes or pineapples on a street car? Because it helps keep stability and if you're into drag racing it'll drastically reduce axle tramp. EDIT: seems like you already know what you want mate. Go get a GT3071R or GT3040 as it seems to be what you're after: more top end then low end response. Just remember that you're most likely going to be pushing your engine (if its standard) at its limits.

Adam, so if I wanted to install this in my car it would be fine? I believe my stock diff is faulty as when turning right hard sometimes the TCS light will come on and immediately cut out some power. Hows this on the road, does it have any of the clunking noises etc. a 2-way diff would? My cars would be a daily driver so I'm after something quiet/not noticable. Oh and sorry for these two stupid questions but: what are the benefits of this one over the stock one and this is an LSD diff right? Not a locked one?

Just ground the SAFC wire into the chassis directly. Usually the metal frame that holds your CD Player/Din pocket will be fine - that's what I used for my CD player.

My amp and sub actually did get stolen last friday. I was hoping I could rant with someone.

Need to sell the car people.

Alot of interstate interest, no one local interested?

Thanks guys, it seems to be nothing unordinary. The owner reassured me there was nothing wrong with the turbo when it was removed and is happy to refund me if theres anything wrong. Appreciate the help guys!

Hey guys Just about to purchase a turbo and then noticed this on the turbine wheel. Its the centre where the arrow is point, it looks like theres a bend in the plate/washer that under the bolt that holds the turbine wheel? Is this normal and perfectly fine? Or is this no good? Thanks, Andy

All R32, R33 S1, R33 S2 turbos are the same as far as I know (the R32 may be roller bearing instead of ball bearing) and the R34 is essentially the same except for the bigger VG30 rear housing. But they are all interchangable with each other so you will not have a problem fitting any stock turbos/high flows to your car.

Is this the process where they have to heat up the guards so the paint doesn't crack when you roll it?

So these will require lip rolling on a GTT? Even if my ride height is just lower then stock by about 15mm? How much would this cost?

Cheers. Heres another question though. Can the GT-RS or GT2530 be bolted up using the stock oil/water lines? Or do new ones needed to be made up?

Yep just small spacers to clear the brakes, they just rub the calipers. I'm using 3mm ones and it hasn't affected the ride quality of the car at all. This is for the GTT only as they have larger brakes than other cars, should fit on R32's, R33's and S14/15's etc perfectly.

Sorry guys the turbo kit is sold to me.

Sorry picture updated up top. What would they be under the yellow pages Gazee?

Guys I've been wondering if the scratches in the plastic bits hilighted in red in the pictures could be repaired somehow? Mine are pretty deep so I'm not sure what to do. Are there professionals which do these kind of things?