Andi

So anybody any ideas on how much boost the stock turbo will be able to make if they had steel wheels? Anyone got a compressor map for the stock R34 turbo?

Unfortunately I'm purchasing the injectors second hand and they're not coming with any documentation.

So if I don't know the latency values of my new injectors I should just input the size correct into the PFC and take the car to the tuner to figure out the latency correction?

Sorry no side shots. Yep will fit R32 GTS-T perfectly as well since they're 5x114.3 as well. Yep its a GTR wing, thanks mate. What rims are you offering sky-017?

SOLD THANKS

Hey guys, Now I've seriously been considering a turbo upgrade the past few weeks but I've run into too many choices. I was after something straight bolt-on being able to retain my current intercooler piping, dump and intake pipe. Obviously the best choice would be a highflowed turbo but when thinking about this I thought of something: What if I just change the stock ceramic wheels to metals ones, while not honing/boring the turbo out? If I was happy with the stock turbo's responsiveness and didn't want anymore lag that would come with "hiflowing" the turbo, could I just change the weakness of the stock turbo being the ceramic turbine wheel that doesn't allow high boost? If this is done could I theoretically run more boost now while retaining the same responsiveness of my stock turbo? Which leads me to my next question: whats the max efficiency boost range of the stock R34 VG30 turbo, and what sort of end power figure would I be looking at? I'm really sort of after a turbo that would give the same results as a HKS GT2530, blistering mid-range punch. Would changing the wheels of my stock turbo to metal and running more boost give me this? Any answers or feedback will be appreciated. Thanks in advance! Andy P.S - would anybody have any idea on how much it might cost to get something like this done?

Phil, would the turbo come with the stock actuator if one doesn't want the HKS actuator?

Nismo only make 480cc for the GTT, but that she be good for around ~260rwkw at around 80-85% duty cycle. I believe Blitz have a 555cc option and Sard make 650cc and up.

Car will be on carsales soon guys.

I'd avoid the E36 M3 if its a model older than 1997, the 3L 5-speed versions are no way near as good as the updated 3.2L 6-speed ones. For a 1994 car its going to be abit expensive when it comes to fixing/replacing/servicing things. Like the above said, I wouldn't choose the R33 because you've already stated you don't like the looks. So that leaves the R32, R34 or S15. IMO; - if you want a car thats more performance oriented and don't mind a few squeaks and rattles or you don't have to worry about driving around a family then the GTR would be the good choice - if you're after pure comfort and are happy with mild power then the GTT is a perfect car. Its a beautiful cruiser, very smooth, spacious and even though its going to be no where near the GTR in terms of performance its still got enough power to get you in trouble - if you want the in between from the two above then looks like the S15 is your choice. Relatively new and just as smooth as the GTT, but don't expect too much in terms space, its abit cramped at the back. A few dollars spent on performance mods makes this car fly as its just so light and dynamically brilliant! My best advice: go test drive a few different examples all the models you've narrowed down and see which you like best.

Like the topic title asks guys, I've just got 2 simple questions. 1. Is the R33 and R34 GT-RS kit the same? I've got an R34 and if I buy the kit which was intended for the R33 it should still bolt up fine since they're both essentially RB25 right? 2. Given I've still got the stock turbo, if I take it out and bolt up the GT-RS using everything from HKS will it go on the same as the standard turbo (apart from the new J-pipe/Hotpipe)? i.e. Will I have to modify my dump exhaust pipe or anything else? Thanks, Andy

Halz, does the turbo come with everything it came with brand new? Would be a straight bolt on no fuss on an RB25 as HKS intended right? Still contains the HKS actuator etc.?

Yep. Pictures now added guys.

I believe R33 ones are longer. I had an R33 cat back fitted to my R34 but it had to be chopped shorter to fit.

Hey guys I have an R34 and currently its got an amp installed with 0 guage wiring. Along that 0 guage I have one of those Stinger 3-Way splitting block thingies (can't remember the actual name), can I just run an 8 guage from that split to the relay/fuel pump without putting a fuse on the new 8-gauge line? Would the fuse on the 0 guage to the amp be sufficient? And this all done to the wiring loom that comes out of the metal lid that sits on top of where the fuel pump is located right?

Yep sure is. I was thinking of painting the front most bottom lip and the lip on the wing both black, like Z-tune. I thought it would of suited the black dished rims nicely. I like the way the front bar is now though haha.

Bump thanks.

Cheers guys, appreciate the comments - its makes all the shit I've been through to get it like this well worth it. siddr20 - yeah I got some higher res photos at 2048x1536 resolution. They're about ~550kb so if you're after some just PM me and I'll send some through. ctjet - yep its what I thought at first, I really wanted the Impul skirts at first but I decided against it in the end; just thought it would have been too plain compared to my front bar. Really glad I chose these skirts instead, they might look dramatic in the photos but in person they're just perfect. The sidevents suit the vents in the front bar too hehe.

Finally managed to take some pictures of my car. Got the car back resprayed in Sparkling Silver and for the money I payed I'm very happy. You really have to see the paint in person to see how 'sparkling' it is, I swear its as if theres glitter flakes in there. Anyhow some pictures, I really need to take the car to some better scenery. Let me know what you guys think.

Was faced with a similar decision to yours buddy, Impul or C-West. The Impul although was my first original choice just seemed to plain to me in the end, I ended up going with C-West. I think the C-West would suit your front bar better, and by the way that is HOT! I would of definately got a Do-Luck bar if I didn't have my front end. And $550 from Peter? f**k you got a good deal considering the quality of his work.

I noticed this problem myself, except my engine light flashes very rapidly at the end of 1st and sometimes 2nd. Only saw it happen once or twice though, apparently the owner who I bought it off said his car would knock alot too. Is this a common R34 problem or could it be something on my end? As in the unit itself or the actual knock sensor?

Well sorry about that n15m0, looks like you're right afterwards. Didn't know DMD made one, I'm assuming it'd be a hell of alot cheaper then Eastbears one. gtt23 mind PM'ing me how much it cost?

Hey Ed, don't know you personally but would like to congratulate you on your engagement! I've got a Silver R34 if you're in need of another one. I pretty much live in Cabramatta so it'll be easy for me and August 25th should be fine as Tommi said its around the beginning of the Uni semester.

Actually I think that front bar is an East Bear GTR bar for the GTT. Looks an awful lot like the version 1 bar with the standard non-vspec lip. Are you talking about the Do-Luck bar from DMD n15m0? Anyhow so I'm not off topic heres the only good shot I've gotten recently of my car (phone camera).

Still no refund on this end either. Shan PLEASE respond personally as its been close to 6 months buddy.