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Everything posted by cash0
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Found some! Thanks all.
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I'm after some stock/genuine AFMs for my R32 GTR. Two of them I guess. By the way - can you bolt on Z32s on a stock setup with stock computer without trouble?
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Yeah, who calls a channel Dave? Yep lots of euro supercars - seeing more and more audi R8s around. Months ago I even saw Jeremy clarkson driving past in that tiny little blue thing that he took into the BBC offices in a recent top gear episode. Guy's got a massive head - or maybe the car made it look bigger. But sadly no skylines!? I've seen one proper worked one in 5 months - an R33 GTR. Hell I even saw a VS commodore ute the other day that someone must have imported.
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Yep, you're right. Not clarkson. I just picked up the mag down at the offy as I live in london. Hell it's top gear saturation here, it's on TV 24-7. I even watch it while eating breakfast. Not sure there is a GTR yet in the UK, as that one from the article was driven near the nurburgring. And the stig apparently "materialised from a forest somewhere near Nitz, stood in the middle of the road and held his hand for us to stop".
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Southern Cross Phillip Gym Membership To Transfer
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Australian Capital Territory
I looked at the Tuggers pool one a while back, looked pretty shoddy, and only a small room or two. I think sutho, although not the biggest is size of all the gyms, has the most useful equipment. I went to CISAC for a while, but although it was massive in area, seemed to be lacking a few key machines. I think all gyms get crazy on mondays after work when people remember how fat they are. On thing I can say about CISAC is it has better eye candy. There's no attractive chicks at sutho -
Southern Cross Phillip Gym Membership To Transfer
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Australian Capital Territory
Been snapped up I'm afraid. -
Hi all, this is grossly off topic for this website... but anyway I'm looking to transfer my full access membership at the Southern Cross Health Club in Phillip as I'm moving overseas. So for anyone who is umming and ahhing about getting into shape (or has friends family/friends who need to), this is a good deal... you will not have to pay the $199 joining fee, and would only have to see out the 6 months left on the membership instead of the standard year. And since you would be taking over my membership, you'd get the older cheaper rates of $13 a week. That's it - no joining fee, no transfer fee... $13 a week. And I benefit because I don't have to pay the $199 cancellation fee (ouch). Cheers.
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Who In Act Has A Gtr With 2860-5 Or Hks Gtss Turbo's
cash0 replied to a20089's topic in Australian Capital Territory
I just fitted the Garrett 2860-7s (note 7, not 5), which after much research I came to the conclusion were the equivalent of GT-SS. I would have gone the GT-SS if it wern't for the garretts being much better value. Now these 2860-7s are confusing because acording to Garrett's website they are "OEM on Nissan RB26DETT used in Skyline R34 GT RN-1" - so I assume they are what's commonly refered to as N1 turbos. And the 2860-5s are roughly equvalent of HKS 2530s, which are another level up from GT-SS, and not great for mid range... as far as I know, correct me if I'm wrong. So anyway, my hoopty (R32 GTR) is much nicer with the new turbos - thrust arrives a tiny bit later than stock, but still a fat mid range. But is crying out for the appropriate supporting mods such as a computer of some description. Anyway, I'd take you up on that six pack, except I'm taking off overseas in a matter of days. Good luck. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ok, I've checked out the coolant temp sensor with a multimeter and here are the results: Dead Cold (<10deg): ~3.5k ohms Hot: ~1 - 1.5k ohms The specs for the sensor as provided by RB30-POWER: 20deg water temp 2.5k ohm (or 2500ohms) 80deg water temp 0.3k ohm (or 300ohms) So, a little off - but it certainly doesn't look like it's stuck on a value. Curiously though it did run quite well this morning after I tested it, maybe a dodgy connection? Anyway I'll keep a monitor on the situation. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Crap, didn't notice the pm. I'll try it out asap. Cheers for the info. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
^ Why would that be? Does the power fc not use this sensor when cold? -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Scrap that... the mongrel bastard was playing games. It's as bad as ever. So not the AFMs after all. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Well this morning, after cleaning the afms and resetting the computer - it didn't do it! But I'm not going to claim victory yet - I bet the twisted bastard of a car is just playing games. So yeah anyway RB30, that would be tops if you could give us a run down on testing the coolant temp sensor. Firstly, where is it? I'm told it's near the top radiator hose - but there seems to be a few different sensor looking things around there. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yeah rang up today about the coolant sensor. The guy sounded a little confused... he concluded there is a sensor right near where the top radiator hose goes into the block that sends messages to the computer. It's $93.40 retail price and the part number is 2263001U00 (if I can read my shite hand writing correctly). I'm going to hold off on it until I can rule out my afms. I cleaned them today with electrical spray, but obviously can't see if it's made any difference until the morning when it's fully cold. I'll let you know. -
Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
cash0 replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Yeah well as I said in my original post my o2 sensors are brand new as they were changed with the turbo/dumps a week ago - so rules them out in my case. I'm going to see how much a new coolant temperature sensor is tomorrow, and also see about my air flow meters. I have heaps of oil and crap in my intake pipes (bigger issue) so that's why I suspect afms. I'll keep you posted. -
For a while now my 32 gtr has been carrying on a bit first thing in the morning. On light throttle it sort of misfires and I can hear the air going chew-chew-chew (while I've still got the power down). On more throttle I can hear this loud sucking noise, but it is way down on power. But then as the temperature gauge gets to half way, it’s like a switch has been flicked and the car becomes totally normal, full power and full boost available. All good. This is something that’s been getting gradually worse, but today (coldish day) the switch didn’t flick when it warmed up and it carried on like this for ages. Got out looked for loose hoses or anything like that, but all appeared normal. I turned it off, waited a minute, turned it on again and everything was sweet. WTF? I’m thinking it might be a dodgy air flow meter screwing with the computer as it fixes itself so quickly. Does that sound right? Things I can rule out: - Turbos – because they are the best part of a week old and it was doing this before - Oxygen sensors – brand new - The plugs were recently checked out and gapped Ps. Running stock computer
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So I'm not a big gauge person - don't like bits and pieces hanging off everywhere - but I want a replacement for the stock R32 GTR boost gauge. And I want it as a direct replacement - to slot straight back into the same spot where the old one was, you know above the stereo in the center console. I've searched, but can't find anyone who's done this. Is there a reason why?
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Yep, definitly a design thing. I got mine today with a nice neat dent.
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If I could just bring it back to the original post - would the XForce brand dumps be acceptable? I mean I know there are cheap chinese knock-offs getting around, but surely XForce would be OK - or are they straight from china too?
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Wait a minute... so the title of this page is wrong? http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=327 The -5 is not GTSS size?
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What sort of 'fiddling' we talking about? Hard core filing of metal, or simply a matter of not using either one of the separators? Is the idea to totally seal off the two outlets from each other - ie air tight?
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I know this is a dig-up, but I'm after some dump pipes to match a pair of GT2860-5s. Would the standard HKS split dumps bolt straight up to the flange of the turbo? Taking the el-cheapo route, there are some XForce (HKS style) ones getting around on ebay - anyone experience these?
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Are you sure that was all the issues? I had a mechanic describe a whole list of issues putting these on - of course I can't remember the specifics. I see you're in canberra - did you do it yourself, or get some place to help you out?
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Yeah and about 3 skylines went flying past without lending a hand to a fellow owner is distress. Where's the love? And a few wrxs with cheesey grins too. Might try fisher discounts for this pipe spanner. Problem is we need a few sizes.
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We've started dismantling the whole setup, and as you'd expect in the world most cramped engine bay, everything is a pain in the arse. Firstly, yes I found the exhaust wheel sitting right where you'd expect it in front of the cat. See photos. The majority of the actual blades seem to have disintegrated, where I don't know yet - hopefully straight through the cat and out the exhaust pipe. Next we started pulling the intake pipes off only to discover a hell of a lot of oil lining the pipes along with a substantial amount of mud!!! Well fine dust embedded in the oil. That's not good. See pic. Once all the piping was off we discovered the oil and water lines. Shouldn't be too hard to get that out of the way - WRONG! The bolts for the water lines will not move - they just won't. Firstly the nut seems a wired size, but after much stuffing around found a spanner that was a pretty good fit. No matter how much muscle was put in, it wouldn't budge. Even a dirty great big pipe on the end of the spanner wouldn't do. See pic with red circle for what I'm talking about. The only way forward is to completely bugger something, or for someone to produce some exotic tool to get it off... and that's just the first one of about five, they're all tight as hell.. and I don't see how you'd get the ones going into the turbo off, they are at such a bad angle to get a spanner on. I'm sure plenty of people have faced this situation while getting at gtr turbos - anyone care to share some wisdom?