dontfeelcold

Not sure yet. Once I have replaced the remaining seals I will decide. Its probably out of the scope of what most people are capable of.

Think you may have skipped a post there. I am just curious to see what other peoples thoughts are. It turns out it's to hard to show fine detail in a picture and very few people actually understand how surface finish can affect the life of something is under stress, so hopefully this thread can educate some people. Here is another excellent article, scroll down to Surface Roughness http://www.efunda.com/formulae/solid_mechanics/fatigue/fatigue_factor.cfm

Rebuilt ABS is still not leaking.

I have drawn an arrow pointing right at what I am seeing. This is in the runout of the thread. Can you see the grooves? Please keep the comments concise and objective.

This is another good one. http://news.sherrylabs.com/laboratory-news-article.php?news_id=44

I know what is wrong with the bolt, I was curious if other people had noticed the same thing. Just because you don't use that section of the thread doesn't mean its not doing anything. Its actually doing alot more than the threads that are engaged. Torque for that bolt is 43 - 58Nm and it is in single shear. I am buying another one. Some suggested reading material. http://www.engr.sjsu.edu/youssefi/me154/notes/Bolt%20failure.pdf http://arp-bolts.mobi/p/tech.php?page=2

Point taken. It's not good though, its like putting a groove in a shaft or what I call the "break here please" mark.

I got my genuine Nissan idler bearing bolt and this is the first thing I see. The runout of the last thread looks pretty nasty, lots of grooves (stress risers). Has anyone else got a new idler bearing bolt to see if it is like mine? Maybe post up a picture?

Extreme TSC SOLD!!

I'm in Sydney. I have an oscilloscope now so I can monitor the solenoids when the ecu is activating them. Ideally I would like to reprogram the ecu. The original one is designed for a new standard car, not what everyone has now. If you don't mind, let me know your thoughts on how you plan on testing them.

Mechanically no, you can fix the leaks. Electronically yes, being newer the R34 ABS "should" be better.

Brand new and alot cheaper than anywhere else.

Now that's a test I can count on! Thanks Whats the consensus on installation, pack it in or let it sit in there with minimal compression?

I found the FSM for the G37, no reason why it shouldn't work. The electromagnetic unit has a linear relationship between current flow and torque. Reuse the factory skyline wiring, trick ecu into think everything is there. Drive the EM ets actuator via a solid state relay that can handle higher current if the hydro ecu can't handle 5amps (or possibly a bit more). Factory G37 logic is cut the 4wd when the transfer case fluid gets over 80deg C. You could easily make use of the hydro ets reservoir low oil switch to warn you via the 4WD light that the oil is hot. Then make the EM ets actuator fit in a gtr transfer case, thats the unkown. Doable like anything, very tempting...

02 sensor bungs SOLD

How regularly do you clean the foam out? My gut feeling for a road car says every oil change as I could imagine that the foam may get a bit gunky after a while.

Why aren't we retrofitting these?

Are they problematic?

I thought the electromagnetic units would be variable too. The current GTR uses one. Anyone have a car with one? when my oscilloscope turns up we can find out

There are still orings on the inside of the unit that will be deformed and no longer sealing properly, reducing the effectiveness of the abs unit.

Yes, in a safe place, but I already bled the entire ABS unit, so there is no air whatsoever in it.

By what means do you bumping up the oil pressure?

I'm curious to know what it's like compared to the hydraulic equivalent. Ditching all of the hydraulics off a GTR is quite appealing.

Also, the brake pedal feel is the best it has ever been. Once you push the pedal hard it gets very firm.

Can anyone tell me or point me in the direction of some information about the G35/37 X awd systems, specifically about the electromagnetic clutch pack actuator? Unless I am using the wrong words, nothing much is coming up.