dontfeelcold

Hi all Recentley aquired a RB26 Power FC Pro for my GTR I am rebuilding. I would like to know what version software it has. The thing is, the engine is half apart so it can't be started and it has no battery. the model number is: PFC RB26 9608-0096 there is also a sticker on the processor that says: FC1-R33 -2 Can anyone identify what software I might have? Alternatively, is there anyone that would allow me to plug my PFC into there R32/33 GTR to work out what version software it has? I live in Quakers Hill, near Blacktown. Thanks guys Josh

Once you have ground the crank alot, why can't you re-nitride it?

I don't think that is correct. You use forged rods to handle more forces, not reduce them. Correct me if I am wrong.

Why do you feel the need for a HKS one?

could be worn through the case hardening in gears. Mine does the same. Yes a thicker oil may help. Banana peel 1000wt LOL. Maybe the heavy redline stuff?

BUMPIDY BUMP

what compound are they?

Gizzmo from ebay How much is a shift light? Just answered my own question. Shift light My goodness, autobarn is cheaper

They still managed to botch up the rb30 in the VL by putting the radiator to low in comparison to the head.

Have you tried emailing Garrett?

Did the "squirt" fan out about 5mm when it just came out of the tip of the injector, then go into a solid stream? If so, they are meant to do that. When I got my injectors cleaned (RB30), they did the same thing. The guy cleaning said that is normal. When they are operating in an engine they are only on for a short amount of time, so the fuel doesn't get a chance to turn into a stream. Also, the air stream going past the injectors doesn't allow the fuel to get past the fan shaped spray.

This popped up after watching the first video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6K40Ju3TViE&NR

where does it mention it was a Z-tune? Found it.

I think he was wondering how you oiled a piston that was upside down.

Is there a common cause for block cracking? There is an article floating around (seen it on this forum), that covers the Gibson GTR over the period it ran in the Group A era. It mentioned something about block cracking being caused by harmonics and the fix was different engine mounts.

A bit odd looking, but amount of machine time that would go into that is impressive. Berrilium-copper valve seats, thats an interesting choice of material. If it took 13months to develop from scratch, it shows you how quickly a car manufacturer could churn an engine out with all the experience they have.

Get a Gregory's R31 Skyline manual. It will have all the details you will need.

I was totally shocked to hear the result

Just another idiot (not you) in the sea of idiots.

They aren't optical tyre pressure sensors, they are WD40 squirters for those enjoyable sideways moments.

Find the wires for the alarm, find out where they go to etc etc, check they are connected, not broken and check them for continuity. Is the microtech getting power from the battery at all? Something might be loose. Basically, just do some checking first, see what you can find. After that you might have to take it to an autoelec.

appreciatted

are speed flow fittings and braided hose absolutely necessary? Couldn't you use high pressure hose with some heavy duty connections like powersteering uses? (just asking)

Has anyone got any idea of what can be happening to the pump when they start to die? loss of pressure (is it sudden or gradual)? Higher current draw?

I might also interested in doing a dry sump setup myself. But from the searching I have done on this forum you should err to the side of caution unless you don't care if you munch an engine. There seems to be more to it than just slapping a external pump on.