dontfeelcold

Thanks

What setup was that on? RB31DET?

excuse me for a second while I rob a bank to pay for some rods.....

Is it possible to post the mods?

I will have to do some ringing around then. But I have one question I will ask: Are after market reprogammable ecu's legal for street registered cars? (please don't post if you THINK, only if you KNOW, not trying to be rude) Thanks

Any recomendations for engineers in Sydney that can issue engineers certificates and dish out advice on what can and can't be done? Or is there some sort of "guidlines" that say what can and can't be done that can be downloaded from the internet?

As the title says. I was browsing the NSW RTA site and came across this RTA. Its down near the bottom. Has anyone taken advantage of this? One way to reduce emissions: Don't rev the engine and avoid excessive acceleration and braking LOL

micro faults being what? machining marks? heavy cuts? Maybe some stress releiving is necessary. I did some googling, didn't get much info on titanium pistons, but C300 sounded good. (might be the end of molten pistons, maybe).

How trustworthy would a set of custom billet (unforged) titanium rods, based on the rb30 rods plus some beefing up? I have access to some pretty good CNC machines at work and am very tempeted. What about titanium pistons and valves, retainers (oohh I am getting excited again)

What is the go with the rear right light?

What condition is it in (grade?)? Are there any problems with the car? (noticed the last picture of the wires hanging in the breeze)

Driving home last night a dog ran out onto the road infront of me. I swerved to miss it and ended up running over a median strip, got airborne and landed on my front right tyre. I managed not scrape anything under car amazingly (no dents in the sump or scraped chassis rails). It wasn't a wide median strip so I completely cleared. Scared the s^&t out of me. I have a couple of problems now. When going around left hand corners with moderate speed (50km/h), the front right scrubs on the guard when it never did before. Amazingly the car still tracks straight, but the steering wheel is crooked so something is suss. What could have happened? Is there a possibilty I permanently shortened the front right spring or bent something causing the wheel to have less camber? I have had a quick look at the suspension and there isn't anything obviously wrong with it, but I feel something is not right. Should an wheel alignment at the local tyre shop pick up any problems? Any suggestions appreciatted. If it helps it a R31 silhouette.

How much now without the wheels?

re the RB25 det head, does it come with a loom and turbo? Any problems with it?

How do you go about remapping the ecu? Any special software + hardware?

What is needed to remap the ECU? Any special equipment and software?

I suppose it depends on the individual as to whether or not a PFC + plus tuning is financialy viable compared to getting a few ugly cream boxes and hiding them + tuning.

Has anyone thought about using the Digital Pulse Adjustor to intercept the signal coming out from other sensor or going into other inputs? Maybe to adjust the ignition timing? Possibly to something about that protect mode where it richens up A/F mixtures to save the engine? (not sure how it works so I could be wrong) Adjusting the point VCT kicks in? (or if you could graft the VCT onto the exhaust side and control that) Just throwing a few suggestions in the air, it seems like this kit has alot of potential, please correct me if I am wrong.

Going up without the clutch is ok (sort of), the real challenge is going down gears without a clutch smoothly and without crunching. It just takes a bit of practice, and lots of crunching.

...

I lost the special socket that is needed to remove the special wheel nuts on my car (one for each wheel) What do I do? I will draw up the shape of the nut and post it, maybe someone has the same one that I could use to remove them?

sounds logical. Did you paint the the plenum with something?

Thanks for that info

10.5 with the rb25de pistons, sounds good to me. Would forged pistons/rods be necessary when running comp that high? or should the rb30 rods and rb25de pistons be enough. My rb30 has done 230000kms, would a basic rebuild (bearings, hone the bores and new rings on the rb25e pistons) be advised or would I get away without doing it. Or does it depend on what it all looks like inside? Would a brake upgrade be required for the power increase? (i have a r31 silo)

One of teh guys at work was telling me about the rally car for road use thing, sounds interesting. So where do you get these "unregisterable" skylines from anyway?