dontfeelcold

I have a R31 s2 silo, not exactly high performance. The falkens seem good enough for me and are way better than the tyres I have now. I have to agree on the wet handling of the falken ziex, but he dry handling I thought was pretty good (for my car). I also cant afford $200+ tyres.

I have heard that one before, good ol' tempe tyres Whats a good price or the falken ziex, I was quoted 160 early in the year. This is for 225/50/16. Or what is a beter tyre in that size under the 200 mark that has good grip and good tyre life.

Is that for one of those unregisterable ones? Where do you get them from?

you are correct about pressurising of the #3 and #4 runners not being a problem on a stock motor, start running 30psi+ then its time to start looking a a properly designed plenum. thats a sweet looking plenum. how on earth do they make those in that shape?

you are correct about pressurising of the #3 and #4 runners not being a problem on a stock motor, start running 30psi+ then its time to start looking a a properly designed plenum. thats a sweet looking plenum. how on earth do they make those in that shape?

my boss used to own a turbo workshop, he did all types of testing with custom plenums shapes, narrow at the rear cylinders this and that and found if you werent running huge boost (50psi+ like the old F1 cars used to) it didnt have problems with cylinders leaning out, since the air is being forced in and preasurising the plenum all the cylinders get the same amount of air, he said it was like filling a bucket up with water, no matter where you fill the bucket up from it will always fill the bucket up, its not like half the bucket is going to fill up more or sooner than the other side. look at the plenum on the rb26dett, its same shape all the way along.

what you need to do is lower the bottom spring holder by the amount you want to lower the car. The car will ride better than springs that have been cut or reset to lower the car. or you get some threaded spring collars to fit the standard spring.

If heat kills O2 sensors mine should have died along time ago. I've got my dump pipe wrapped up with DEI tape, No heat can escape (poor O2 sensor) you can hold onto the dump pipe with your bare hand even when the pipe underneath is red hot. rev210 i would like to see a picture of this. it would make for an interesting walpaper

i got booked for running a red light when i didnt run a red light. my car was over the line and into the intersection, but the F$%kwit of a cop (not all cops are like like this but some are) thought otherwise. wouldnt take no for an answer and admit he was wrong.

is it possible to machine the rb25det pistons to acheive 9:1cr without weakening it it anyway? or can the block be machined a bit? it seems worthwhile to have 9:1cr, seeing as the rb25det has this cr.

afm before the turbo, didnt think of that. is the r33 rb25det afm before the turbo?

was wondering if a rb25det gearbox (out of an r33) will fit into a R31 silhouette i know it will bolt up to the motor, but is the gearstick in the same spot as the gearbox out of the r31 will the tailshaft out a r31 fit to the r33 gearbox, r33 tailshaft fit into the r31 (i know the r33 has irs while the r31 is live rear axle, but you never know, just look at how compatable the rb series of motors are) if anyone has any experience with this or could take some measurements of the gearbox crossmember, gearstick and the length of the rb35det gearbox from the the back of the block so i can compare them to the r31 gearbox. i want to do the rb30det conversion, 114kw(at the flywheel) is boring, but i would like some reliability in the gearbox department. or does anyone know how much torque and hp the r31 gearbox can take. any advice would be greatly appreciated

was wondering if running the airflow meter after the throttle body would work properly. when running a bov with an afm, i have heard of engines stalling due to being flooded because air is still going through the afm (and out the bov) when the throttle body is closed. you could run no bov but that puts strain on the compressor blades. just wondering if this would work.

was reading up on specs of r33 rb25det. it had 9:1cr. does anyone make pistons to get this cr or can you machine some material off the block. I dont see why you couldn't do this (its not going to reduce the block that much that it will machne something off that is not supposed to). Its been mentioned alot that 9:1 cr is good but no one has mentioned a way of doing it. (sorry, i like to ask questions)

can the R33 gtst ecu be chipped so it can be tuned to the rb30det properly (proper air/fuel mix etc). If it cant, can an after market ecu be plugged straight into the existing loom without modifying the loom. I want to do the conversion like 25t did. with the exception of forged pistons, as i will probably want a bit more power out of it at a later stage, plus a bit more reliability. Can anyone recommend where i can get a rb25det from in sydney. the cheapest ive seen is $2800 Anyone know about the rb25det gearbox fitting in a r31? any problems?

was wondering if r33 gtst mspec front and rear calipers and discs would fit on an r31.

wanted to know if the rb25det gearbox fits into a R31 skyline, if the gearstick sticks up the hole in the tunnel, and if the gearbox crossmember mounts line up with the where the rb30e 'box bolts to. was wondering how the rb25det computer would go on the rb30det with 9:1cr? Is it ok to machine the block to get the 9:1cr, and if so how much do you take off the block when using rb30 N/A pistons? i want to do the conversion the cheap way like 25t did, he said had to hato increase the timing. how do adjust this if the rb25det has electronic ignition? or should i leave the compression alone as i will be running the standard r33 gtst turbo

i like the r32 over the r33 beacause of the r32 racey look. Dont get me wrong the r33 still looks shmick. noticed on the tradingpost web page, r32 gtst averaged $20,000 while r33 averaged $15,000. what with this or was i looking at the wrong time :slap: (i love this smilie)

i like the look of the r32 better (more racey). Did nissan bring out a r32 with the rb25det or would i have to do the converison myself (might aswell do the rb30det conversion then. easy, crazy power) Will the rb30 block fit into a r32?

im going to some supersprints and track days in my R31. What can be done to the rb30 to stop it from oil surging (baffles in the sump etc)

woops wrong thread

Got a R31 silhouette series2 but looking to upgrade to either an R32 or R33 GTS-T Feel free to post the pro and cons of these two cars. I like the way the silhouette handles (stiff shocks and lowered 2 1/2 inches) and i have heard the r32 handles a little better than the r33, is this a weight thing or a shock, spring and suspenion arm setup thing? whats a reasonable price for these two cars unmodified in ok condition. thanks for any input Josh Kemp