JAPCAB

You should be busting your mates 32 without a problem. Problem could lie in either tuning or engine health. (hopefully the first one rather than the second!) good luck with it.

Fuel pump could be jammed? one time my car was cranking but not starting. Before this the car would sometimes cut out and stall while driving (great fun because you lose the power steering + brakes). Called RACV, guy removed a fuse for something to bypass and went under the car and thumped the fuel pump. The car then started up. I guess if you aren't getting cut outs when driving its probably not the pump at fault but a connection? Good luck with it.

You can try a few things. 1) Clean AAC valve - may be a build up of thick, black carbon, take to this with some carby cleaner and a rag. 2) Air flow meter - pull this out and give this a spray with the carby cleaner. 3) Have you adjusted the Throttle position sensor? 4) Pull out O2 sensor. Give it a shake. If you hear a rattle its dead/on its way out. Replace it - they are cheap anyway ($99 from petroject) and helped fix my idling problem, get the standard 3 wire O2 sensor, and join it onto the existing O2 harness. The O2 sensors are good for about 40-60thou KM's. You should replace this anyway as it will give you better fuel economy and the chances are it hasn't even been changed since the car left the factory (my 1994 gts-t had the OEM o2 sensor in it!) Tell tale sign that your O2 sensor is wasted is ur back bumper getting black soot around the exhaust 5) spark plugs

you can easily run a wire from the drivers side parker wire, through the drivers side hole in the firewall and up through to wherever your guages are.

could it be your fuel cap? perhaps swap with a mates fuel cap and see if that helps, might want to try that before changing all the fuel lines etc.

I finally found out how to kill that annoying 'beep! beep!' Yellow box, right underneath the wheel, slightly towards the passenger side. White clip in the bottom, unclip it. This is for r33 s1. Its right udner there, u'll probably need to chuck ur head rite under. Its about the size of 2 matchboxes put together.

Not sure about rb26 coil packs, get the spitfire ones for rb25det, they are sick coil packs.

Mate they are PISS easy. All u need is an allen key to undo the 8 allen bolts on the black nissan cover on the top of the engine. Remove the intake piping by undoing the hose clamps. Take off the black cover, then unclip each harness from the coil packs. Undo another few bolts, and the 2 coil pack assemblies come off.

You can always check the turbo for shaft play - this is movement in the shaft of the turbo. You can do this quite easily - remove the intake piping, and then remove the intake pipe going onto the turbo. Check for movement in and out, and side to side. Other tell tale signs can include the turbo being noisy - making loud drilling/spooling noises (we all know a stock turbo shouldnt do this) hitting boost but not being able to hold boost. With the R33 gts-t turbos, they wont last long if run at higher boost levels. With the R34 GTT there seems to be a string of people experiencing turbos failing at .7 bar so probably a good idea to look at replacing the turbo if wanting to run more than stock boost as the standard turbo's dont stand up to that much abuse. Its better to replace the turbo for say $1500 rather than blowing the turbine and risking damaging the engine.

I also have the Trust intercooler which has the end tanks on the same side. The pipes are very short and go up the stock position pipe holes. It was piss easy to install, just a few bolts and that was it!

hopefully the rim hasn't been knocked out of balance, if it was a decent enough hit the rim wont be true anymore

What a f*ckhead...next time tell him to shut the f*ck up and if he doesnt after that snap him in the snout. Watch out with those cyclist poofs, one time me and a mate had an argument with one and about 4 mins later he came back with like 20 other cyclists.....it was like tour de fkn france chasing us

$99 from petroject in bayswater, get a standard 3 wire O2 sensor (thats for r33). Made a nice difference after chucking a new one in - my car still had the original nissan one in it ( its a 1994 model!)

Speeding - various; 2 fines for 4 km over, 2 for 15kms over driving without licence driving in breach of minor defect driving in breach of major defect fail to obey lights fail to indicate not have licence on person whilst driving driving unroadworthy vehicle x6

) Dont burn em up 2 quik son lol

Yeah second hand P zero's, 85% tread left....who cares if they are second hand tho.....well i dont maybe some ppl do. Tyres are fine, haven't had any problems apart from the fact that i know they were cheap so i've burned them up lol. I'm never buying new tyres again i'll go back to North End everytime.

Yep that sounds about right....... hehe

North End tyres bro 14a carrick drve, tullamarine. Second hand tyres with 85%-95% tread on em. Cheap as chips, i scored 285/R18/30 Pirelli Pzeros for $150 fitted. check em out. If anyone has a good contact to get cheaper tyres please pass on the details Thanks

Sorry to hear bout it - but prepare to get reemed. Dont bother going to court because you will only get reemed harder and be up for more costs. First case with the speedo that will be your fault 100% so you cant challenge it. The second one you cant prove anything and dont think the cop wont make up a story about it if he knows its going to court - what cop wants to be proven wrong? The police prosecutor is a total fagget as well.

Mate If u are after tyres, there is only one place to head to in melbourne. North End Tyres 14a carrick Drive, Tullamarine. I needed new rear tyres for my r33......after a quick ring around to local tyre shops (tyremen, bob jane rah rah) they were quoting me $500 minimum on 265/r18/35's. F*CK THAT i thought. . . at those prices i'd have to drive my car around with the metal radial belts hanging out for the next few months From north end i scored myself some 285 (yep thats rite 285) R18/30 Pirelli Pzeros with 85% tread for $150 each fitted. So cheap I can actually afford to burn em up now! Head down there, its in tullamarine so a bit of a drive, maybe $10 in petrol but damn worth it. Second hand tyres but in tip top condition, plenty of tread and NOT RETREADS.

Speaking of oil filters; i had a bit of an experience with one a few weeks ago. Needed to do an oil change, so emptied old oil, and removed old oil filter. Popped in a new oil filter, and filled up new oil. Start up the car after the oil change, and i can hear this bubbling/gurgling noise. Not good i thought.....turned the car off. Had a look under the car, oil pissing out from somewhere. Check the sump, its ok. Checked oil filter, and there was oil leaking from the bottom of it. Tightened it up as hard as possible, turned on car again. still pissing out oil. Lost about 3-4 litres just getting the car out the driveway and across the road! since all the oil had pissed out anyways, i thought i gotta get this damn oil filter off. Tried getting it off but it was covered in oil, eventually managed to get it off. The problem was that the oil filter had no rubber gasket thingo on it, so there was no seal between the oil filter and the screw on fitting. Cheap ass ryco filter! Waste of 4 and a bit litres of Motul Turbolight aswell.

The dark little blue blubs included with the 'phillips blue vision' headlights actually light up white. I have these same blubs in my car. If you are after the parkers that are hardcore neon Blue, you will need to buy the blue replacement parkers from Autobarn, they are about $8. To access the parkersyou do not need to take out the headlight, there is a little long rectangular fitting that twists into place, have a look on the side with the air filter, you will see wires and a fitting going in directly behind where the parkers are. The side with the air filter is easy to get to, however the other side is a pain in the arse! the water bottle blocks access, you will need sum1 with thin ass arms! otherwise remove the windscreen washer bottle.

Stuff high-flowing, i've got a hi-flow and its starting to stuff up, i'm also due for a replacement. To high flow your turbo will be a good $1200+, you can pick up a second hand gt2530 for about $1500; spending the extra few hundred is worth it as you will get a quality turbo made by HKS, not a highflow that some guy in a workshop has put together. You can slap on just the turbo by itself, you will get more power by using the HKS dump pipe but the stock dump will also fit so you dont have to change this right away. Of course if you want to start running more boost from the new turbo you will need to start upgrading other support systems - fuel pump, ECU, injectors etc, but running the new turbo on say stock boost or a little bit more will be fine.

This is a very good point - what tests are best to determine engine health before i start thumping on more mods? compression test?

Thanks for the replies guys! Some excellent info here Hrmm well i guess i'm aiming for the 250rwkw mark - with a good tune it should be ok. I'd love to mess around with the internals and forge em but I haven't quite cracked the $18 mil Powerball yet! hehe. I guess 250-300rwkw out of the stock internals is pretty good considering how many RWKW these cars push out stock ( to the best of my knowledge its about 140-150ish?)