raist60

Waverley Exhaust 9561 1522 ask for Colin. From frontpipe to rear $800 on my car. Thats 3 inch with high flow cat and muffler... PM Me if you wanna go there and ill let him know...

Just finished my build up so i got all these parts for sale RB25DET Fuel Rail and Injectors Standard cooler Standard turbo (Minus exh housing) Standard Fuel Pump and Finally i bought 2 Bosch 040 internals so i have one for sale. It is being cleaned and flow tested this week for sale.

My exhaust place They do things real good like my whole exhaust only cost 800

I got mine made for 160 !!!

Go find any 550cc HIGH IMPEDANCE (12 - 14 ohm) injectors and make yourself a new fuel rail

My GT30 makes that sound too. If its your factory turbo that doesnt sound right. But if youve had shit done to it dont sweat. And macka i think you meant to say intake hose dunno how the f*&k you gonna spin the turbo from the outlet

This is testiment to the fact that dynos are all different. My turbo would not make more power past 160rwkws The injectors died at 170rwkw. I now have a GT30, 550cc inj, maplassi, powerfc, 600x300x90 cooler, pod, exhaust 3 in and i can only just lay down 190 because of my dump pipe. Thats why i said 200 is unrealistic if anyones curios.

Realistically you will not make 200rwkws with standard ecu. You will need a new turbs and fuel system.

Dang are you guys gonna be going out eastern way. If you are let me know when where. Dont want to risk taking the car that far when it only just got put back together. And my fuel pump is a bit funny

+61 (0)3 9584 4499 If they give you any hassle about shipping i can grab it for ya and we can arrange a different way to ship.

Ok heres my story. Turbo build by rotomaster in melbourne for 2100. I already blew up the cartridge by blocking an oil feed passage in the turbo oops. New cartridge from garret cost 550. The turbo itself spools very quickly id be so bold as to say the same as the factory turbs. The turbo itself is a ****ing monster and requires 1inch worth of spacer to make it fit onto standard manifold. It will require new lines to be made to fit onto it, this is not too much of a hassle tho. In midrange its just ****ing nutty. I cant give you a kw figure till i finish the tuning BUT at 16psi running lean as all **** it was making 200rwkw at 6000rpm. I have powerfc and rx7 injs etc etc etc etc...

PFFT 1.2bar hahahahaha! Just giving ya shit fella These turbos will hold 25 - 30psi without dropping shit.

The kits comes with everything you need. Cooler / piping / brackets / silicon hose joiner. Its a 600x300x90 mm Bar and Plate cooler. It feeds through the standard piping in left hand front guard. Its awesome. Like i said i paid 1400 bucks from AVO TURBO WORLD in Melbourne.

No its not like that. Comp cover is new 0.70 Cartridge is GT30 Comp wheel / Exh wheel is new Exhaust housing is the only thing left on mine. Saves me from having shit loads of lag.

500 hp model is the best all rounder for quick spool good boost. I personally went for a GT30 500hp model with standard exhaust housing bored out to fit the gt30 rear wheel. Works great

Id be going to GT30. Full boost by 4k easy. (Well mine does anyway) and it will pwn the GT25 any day.

No offense to the trust and hks coolers but there a ****en ripoff. My avo one is 600x300x90 mm (Bar and plate) whole kit for 1400.

WTF is an extension housing? May be able to help if you can clear it up for me.

If my car is finished this weekend (hopefully) i will be running that night.

http://www.happytogether.com/318ti/notebook/shifting/ Good site explaining good shift practises

Im talking bout the R33 man. Its happening to my car right now. Run a valve setup. Hits 14psi then drops back to around 11/12 at 7000 Was told by Racepace this is due to the turbo being too small.

Joel be really careful. Detonation in skylines is damn quiet. By the time you can hear it its really bad. Just reading your post you say you can hear no detonation, that doesnt mean it aint detonating. BTW... Majority of timing lights do not read the RB25DET pulse wire correctly and generally show double the timing that they are really running. Ie. If the timing light reads 30dBTDC it is most likely around 15dBTDC

Fixed

I can sort this out nice and easy. Anyone here your pipes banging when you shut the tap of real quick? SAME PHYSICS Air flowing fast in one direction you let throttle snap close the air that was moving one way bounces off the throttle body butterfly going the other way back through the turbo causing it to slow quickly Now i can say that this DEFINITELY does cause damage your jarring the entire wheel / shaft assembly in your turbo. And people with BOVs do NOT get this noise. A BOV will vent when the throttle snaps shut thus releasing the air before it hits the butterfly in the throttlebody.

Two things. 1. Dry, unoiled pods are not illegal. Thats comin for a victorian TOG member. 2. Boost dropping off is not really-ish a problem with the bleed setup it is more because of the turbo itself. Standard turbo just will not flow that much to feed the motor at the higher revs. The electronics can make em hold boost cos they are increasing the amount that gets vented. But it aint good for the turbo. Bye bye wheels Aftermarket turbo with bleed setup should not have MUCH boost drop as far as ive heard. Anyone confirm or disagree?