raist60

im guessing your talking bout you CAS, its got a mitsubishi stamp on it? Anyway if it is that just mark where it was and put it back on where it was before hand.

thats about as cheap as they come i think dude. Thats what i got mine for too?

edit: oops shit i didnt realise you had another BOV, dont worry about the line they have probably blanked off your BOV

Dont think so, VLs can run make some pretty cool power on their standard internals. Oil squirters just cool the base of the piston... dont think that would make a big difference.

hahaha, are we trying to re-write the laws of ECU physics or something here. Just give up man. Please for your sake. We can argue all day long but we are still right, serious dude we arent lying ATMO BOVs make rich A/F ratios when venting... ECU has accounted for air it expects to end up in cylinder so adds fuel for air that has since been expelled through an ATMO BOV. Ie the fuel gets dumped but the air never made it into cylinder therefore higher fuel ratio to air, therefore lower A/F Ratios. Hoora!11

The point i was trying to add about the T04s is the in-efficiency of the old style turbo wheels. Ie. More heat from comp wheel.

umm yeah they do, just give up your wrong, k. the air dumps straight out after afm saw it, ecu gives fuel for air that has since been dumped to atmo, hence riching up your mixtures something bad.

They are talking about an atmo venting BOV, which stuffs up a/f ratios.

pull off front driveshafts? thats what most people do isnt it...

my PFC just stays in the last map, i dont know much about tuning ECUs but i didnt think you could really tune past this point. Rather just richen up that last map something shocking to compensate?

To say dont let it ping, i dont know of anyone that MEANT to detonate their engine. I would personally like a bit of room to feel comfortable. Say for example you make 1 ****up with a boost controller you could lose ya bottom end? Whatever rings your bells i suppose

coz they are still in lub with T04 turbos, they havet caught up with the new efficient turbos. Thats what i figure anyway.

A 3 inch cat wont give much restriction i wouldnt think. Think of it this way when you look at a fresh cat it has about 65% of its area blocked by the honey combe crap. Yet the actual housing is normally about 2.5-3 times bigger than a 3in pipe. So it should still flow OK until it gets blocked? Thats just me theorising

I read that too on the internet but its only ever written on the sites of places that sell them hehe I just remember that they dont like pinging. You cant mess with the best (forged) in terms of sheer strength. I personally think that the hypereutectic pistons would kick ass in a NA engine were there is no huge heat / nasty cylinder pressures / razor edge of detonation.

I thought it might be worthwhile mentioning that high-silicon content pistons (Hypereutectic) are extremely intolerant of pinging. The are a very brittle piston weaker even than stock cast pistons (in regards to detonation). Their benifits are low expansion and very light. Any pinging will most likely knock these pistons apart. Be carefull guys. edit: well not weaker than standard pistons, i mean more brittle

glad it helped someone out

As per subject i would like to get myself a working z32 with plug. Thanks

Im saying that with a 2 millimetre piece of steel you have nothing to actually TAP into, they get a premade thread and weld it onto the side of the pipe. Its kinda just like a nut only its normally completely round. If you catch my drift. Ah well...

you cant "tap" a hole in an exhaust. You ahve to weld a thread onto it.

Probably coz it was run in 3rd

Yes you need to keep your oxygen sensor otherwise the car has no idea what to do in closed loop mode. Second thing is i dont know how you gonna make a 3 1/2inch pipe fit onto a standard turbo flange 3 inch only just fits with a bit of ****ing around. Good luck dude!

Despite the fact i have a 33 gts i had the same issue. When i first put my new turbo on i had to the std BOV blocked off. At light throttle it would start to make compressor stall noise and get worse and worse until i backed off or opened the butterfly. I put my money on BOV not opening properly, coz when i unblocked std BOV (when i got off my arse and replumbed back to intake.) the problem was fixed.

Take the top nut off and you have a screw, thats what you use to adjust the fuel press. The rate fuel pressure increases is roughly the same as boost, so 15psi boost would be 15psi increase in fuel pressure.

i have run 22 psi on std... no probs

Stock BOV will hold move than 1 bar. As boost goes up on one side the side thats actually holds it shut sees exactly the same amount. So as you up the boost the pressure to hold it closed goes up too.