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Update: Bootlid has been painted:

Still for sale! Now on carsales: http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...e|1&trecs=5

No sorry I'm after cash for this car.

More pics as requested: Still for sale, assume it is unless I update the thread as sold.

1988 Nissan Cefiro (checked rego papers definately 88). RB20DET factory 5 speed manual 187,xxx km on dash, motor replaced with apparently 55,000km engine from SSS automotive. Probably another 10,000km on motor now. Serviced with Castrol synthetic oil (and filter) every 5,000kms, also has synthetic gearbox oil. Registered until 30 June 2007 Full 3 inch exhaust with stainless split system dump pipe, high flow 3 inch cat, and mild steel catback with 4 1/2 inch tip cannon. Aftermarket heavy duty clutch HKS POD filter Clarion mp3 cd head unit MTX 6 inch coaxials in rear, I think older pioneer coaxials in front. Veilside Andrew V rims, 17x7.5 inch front / 17x8.5 inch rear. Rear near new tyres, front average tread. Fully engineered for these mods plus TEIN coilovers and Recaro drivers seat. (Could add them legally). Walbro high flow aftermarket fuel pump. Comes with many spares, near complete rb20det motor, suspected head gasket failure. Spares with it include air flow meter, full set of coil packs, turbo, power steering pump, etc. New rear brake pads, fairly new front discs and pads. Issues: Leaking power steering line. Vibration from front right corner. Relacing hub/wheel bearing then wheel alignment should fix. Driver seat and rear passenger side door trim have non matching trim colours/patterns. No cigarette lighter. (Have one spare to throw in) Boot lid grey instead of black. EDIT now matching see pics Bumps and scratches around the body, could do with a good wash / cut and polish. Central locking button unplugged because it kept locking itself when I didn't want it to. Rear windscreen wiper missing. This is a car you'd buy and immediately have a bit of cash aside to fix some of the things. Car is just sitting there ready to be test driven/sold. $9,000 ono Contact me on 0422 531 992 , michaelclare1 at optusnet.com.au or PM here.

The following items are WANTED by me in order to tidy up my car ready to sell: -A31 hicas steering rack with tie rods/ends -A31 hicas pump with connections/lines -Cefiro rear windscreen wiper -a31/s13 Front drivers side hub assembly with wheel bearing -Swap a31 driver side seat with someone's spare to get trim to match. Currently I have the black/white patern material but the rest of the cabin is dark grey. -Factory decent condition s13/a31 front shocks. No springs required but will buy them as well if neccessary. I also have some spares that I can trade or let go at mates rates: -A31 rb20det engine suit wrecking. Highlights from this include factory turbo in good nick, two full sets of coil packs (one set older style rb20 loom plug, other set new). Still have most of the engine bit and pieces, no loom but things like CAS and piping. Please PM here to enquire. Cheers, Michael

For sale: 1989 n13 Pulsar Q Asking Price: $2,000 ono Kilometers: 199,xxx kms Manual or Automatic transmission: Automatic Engine Type: NA 1.8L 4 cylinder Registration: Yes 25/3/2007 Reason for sale: Wife upgraded to a newer looking car for real estate. This is a decent cheap run about, reliable and cheap to run. Overall condition is good, body has a few scuffs here and there, passenger side front door not quite straight but not a big deal (can see in pics). Air con, power steer, radio. Over 1/2 year rego with near new tyres. Passed pink slip last year without a single problem. Inspections and test drives welcome for serious buyers.

Rear brake setup, coolant sensor housing and subframe gone.

Ecu and loom gone. Turbo probably gone. Still have motor components including 6 coilpacks and a lot of other free stuff.

Moving house in 5 weeks, garage is full of car crap, time to get rid of this stuff. Firstly the original RB20DET engine from my a31 Cefiro. This was cooked pretty good when a radiator hose burst. Still was running but overheated after 10/15 minutes without fail. Compression test not pretty. Suit decent rebuild/spares. Includes turbo, power steering pump, air con compressor, rusty old flywheel and clutch, alternator. Will seperate parts. Loom and electronics can be provided or seperated. Pretty much entire entire loom minus afm from auto a31 cefiro including ECU. Never tested this, just swapped my old loom over. Includes ignitor chip, coilpacks, CAS, etc. $300 for everything. S13 subframe from my old 180sx. Straight as a die, complete except for toe rods. Includes hubs and studs. $100. 180sx tail lights from my old 180sx. Perfect condition, no scratches/cracks. $50 pair. Complete rear brake setup from s13. Includes discs, calipers pads, and complete handbrake assembly and cable. Perhaps ideal for rear disc conversion on older car? $50 the lot. Alloy coolant temperature probe housing (on far right in red)$20 S13 front and some rear inner plastic guards. Good condition. $40 the lot SOLD Heaps of misc trim, spares, etc. What you see is what you get. Free to good home(s). Will post if buyer pays postage. standard fee of $10 for such items, that way I might make $3 an item for my trouble. May or may not include free spiders from my shed. Vague descriptions of what is seen in each pic below. Instrument surround, glovebox, interior trim, washer water bottle with filler neck, steering column trim all from s13. Centre console, air con under dash ducting, interior trim, hacked r32 skyline airbox, castor rod. Antenna mechanism, rear 180sx trim: speaker supports, etc. Misc induction system airboxes. Dented sr20det sump, 180x rear speaker supports, myriad of engine bay supports and brackets I deemed 'too heavy', 5 bolt drive shaft good except dodgy thread on end, good but restrictive catalytic converter, airbox chambers, spare s13 rear hub with rooted wheel bearing. s13 rear and drivers seats. Please PM or email [email protected] for further enquiries. Located in Blue Mountains, 40 mins up from Penrith, NSW. Most things that aren't sold will simply be binned within the month. Cheers, Michael

Hello there, after an aftermarket dump pipe to suit rb20det in a Cefiro. Plenty of combined dumps and fronts on the market, but the car came with a front pipe so only want something simple and cheap to finish the exhaust system. Ready to buy immediately, please PM here or email [email protected] Cheers, Michael *EDIT: GOT ONE CHEERS*

Dunno if you have solved the problem yet but from some recent reading up on the TPS maybe that is the problem. Apparently if the TPS is not set correctly the ecu will think the throttle is open for take off when it is closed and add some timing expecting load. Therefore until it knows the throttle is shut you will always see advanced timing at idle but the car will drive ok otherwise.

Ok so all of a sudden it just starts working. I knew the plug was getting pulse but wasn't sure if the injector was firing or not (rtoo much vibratio and noise t hear or feel the click. So I took the cas out of the head but still plugged in, and rotated it with the ignition on. The number 1 injector definately clicked then. Even so I decided to change it back to the original one which I tested with some direct 12v, clicked on command as well. Switched them over and then it just fired up properly like nothing was ever wrong. Unbelievable but true, this is with the same initial components with what the problem started. Car running well now except for a slight miss as it hits decent boost, but that's not to worry I'll put it on the dyno this week just to check the mixtures and what not. Thanks to everyone who posted with ideas your help is much appreciated. Special thanks to BHdave for some solid time going through everything with me on ICQ.

Ok just did that and I have an identical looking pulse for injector plug numbers 1 and 2. Cylinder 2 is still working fine so I assume the signal to the injector is fine too.

I've run the engine with the coil disconnected from the spark plug hanging out to view, with number 2 along side it to compare. Both sparked so I assume that meant they were ok and the ignitor channels as well. I just did another test, plugging in spare injectors into the loom whilst the engine was running (injector just loose/not in fuel rail) and could get any to make a sound. Could the ecu be purposely cutting cylinder 1 because of the code 54?

Ok, did some tests. Both injector wires measure 12v when ignition is ON and no engine running. Tested continuity for pin 101 (white with silver dash) and it matches one pin of injector plug, pin 109 (white with black stripe and silver dash) matches the second injector plug. I've also tried two different ecus, one an a31 manual and the other an a31 auto and the car runs exactly the same with each, and also they both give diagnostic code 54. Any more help is appreciated.

So the injector fires by having a constant 12V but is only grounded by the ecu at the proper times. Ok will test ecu pin cheers for the help.

Hi everyone, the car is a near stock (cat back exhaust and POD) a31 Cefiro, factory manual RB20DET. I've just changed the motor for another from a wrecker because the old one cooked and had very bad compression. I purchased an automatic spec a31 rb20det (but with clutch/flywheel on back), but switched over the loom, ecu, sensors, injectors, coils, plugs, ecu, flywheel, box, etc. Previously the old engine with these parts ran fine apart from being gutless and overheating. Now the engine seems to be running on 5 cylinders. It sounds like a wrx and unplugging the coil for cylinder 1 has no effect. I switched coils and plugs for cylinders 1 and 2 and the problem remained for cylinder 1 only, leading me to believe the coils and plugs are ok. I then unplugged number 1 injector plug, which made no difference to the running of the engine. Multimeter at the loom plug for this reads 0.7volts while running so I figured I had a busted injector. Switched it for a spare today and it made no difference. This fresh injector clicked with 12v applied so it shouldn't be seized. I ran the eccs diagnostics and got code 54: Signal Circuit From A/T Control Unit To ECM which puzzles me. The car is factory manual with the same electronics as before, so why would it be telling me it wants an auto signal? Only thing I can think of is that I've missed a plug somewhere switching the looms, if so where might it be? Anything else I can try? I hope people don't just dismiss this as another coilpack fault without reading because I'm sure it's not from my tests. Thanks in advance for any assistance, this has me stumped

I removed mine recently. From memory there are three on the front door and two on the rears (each side). Some I just grabbed with some vice grips and yanked out, others had a screw on the inside of the door frame that once out let them slide out easily. All mine are now gone.

Anyone ideas? Today I'm planning to try and flush out the heating system with some more additive and the garden hose. I'll also be properly sealing the coolant return pipe covering the thermostat with silastic. I might also fill it up with coolant this time, as I have been testing everything with water thus far to save cash. Any other ideas? If this doesn't work I'm afraid I'll have to leave the car at a specialist for diagnosis.

Hey guys, was hoping people here could help me solve my cooling issues in my rb20det cef. I bought the car knowing it needed a new radiator, so I immediately fitted a decent second hand one. Water pump went immediately (first drive) so that has been replaced too. All was fine for a couple of weeks until the other night the top radiator hose burst and the engine got very hot. Actually shut down by itself. The gauge was reading normal and I couldn't see any steam because it was dark. Towed it home, waiting a few hours for cooling, changed the hose and filled up the coolant. Car started (thank god) but overheated just after warming up. Since then I have drained and flushed out the whole system, after using a radiator cleaning additive, fitted a new thermostat and given it a really good bleed. It is much better, the car will warm up, drive for about 10-15mins and then the gauge will slowly creep up. Last drive there was a leak from the thermostat pipe (stupid gasket they gave me was useless). Also couldn't get hot ait from the heater in the cabin which has worked fine in the past. Head gasket has been suggested, but oil and coolant show no signs of interference, and there are no bubbles coming up through the radiator from exhaust gas in the system. Car also drives well and makes normal power, although is a little hard to start now. Any ideas? Could there be a blockage in the heater hose section since now it won't work? I have searched and found lots of good stuff on flushing and bleeding but now I need specific help. Any feedback is much appreciated.

The 2510 doesn't drop out of revs up high. It will just be producing less power than the larger turbos on full song but in no way will it feel like the power drops off. A lot of advice here from people that have no experience with the turbo it seems.

Info on my 2510 setup on SR20: http://www.sr20tuning.com/fittingaturbo.html Please read it, lots of good stuff there, look at results page up top for dyno graphs.

I made 220rwkw with a 2510 my sr 180, awesome midrange, would be an ideal turbo for an Rb20. That or the newer and slightly lower ated GT-SS.

Just like to add thanks to the advice above. My car broke down tonight, we suspected the fuel pump and using the info above I was able to get the car running again quickly. For reference it was the 6th along the top row from the right. 10A fuse, to the right of it a 20A.