GTRman1992

We had a track day on the "Clubman" track at Queensland Raceway recently and the R33 GTR ate everything including an AC Cobra. There were also some STI's there. I had a speed trap setup on the straight and the Cobra had it all over everything, but as far as the lap times went the GTR was the machine of the day. Oh yea, and it had stock turbo's that were high flowed and some boost and that was about it. I think when you are talking GTR's its the race track that matters not the drag strip. Anyone in a tubbed out big block Torana can go fast at the drags, putting in fast consistent laps at the track is another story.

Its not just HP, with a GTR the traction off the line cannot be matched. Even with less power you still win. And the torque of the twin turbos. mmmmm

Does anyone have an old water pump. I don't care if it leaks out the bearing seals as long as the gasket surface is ok. I have bought a Davies Craig electric water pump and need to pull the guts out of the standard pump and weld up the hole. I just don't feel like destroying my pump as it is less than 2 years old. Thanks.

I've never noticed any torque drop. It just gets on boost and pulls hard to redline.

I have a GTR R32 so I might be a bit biased, but up in the mountains or on a race track only other GTR's are keeping pace. Its the corner exit that seems to be the killer, when the 4WD slingshots you out and the twins get onto boost. mmmmm

If you have a good look at those kits you would see they are built to a price not a standard. Sure you can build any circuit on a single sided board, but the track paths are not ideal, also a ground plane cannot be used. Even as far as single sided boards go there is no solder mask used. With EMI, anything with a microcontroller is prone to interference and also generating electrical noise. They look like they were built using the school of thought from the late 80's early 90's. Nobody builts commercial boards like that anymore. As far as building them and using them on your car, they will probably be fine. They are for hobby use. I just like top quality electronics.

I drove my mates R32 GTR for the first time the other week and straight away noticed how nice the shift was. He said it had a short shifter kit, but I cannot recall what brand.

An oil cooler may be a good idea also if you plan on doing some track work.

Does anyone have a summary list of the following for R32, R33, R34 GTR's. A. Spring Rate B. Shock Rate C. Ride Height

I sent an email to the contact and got a reply straight away. Will look into it further in the new year. See how bad the budget gets punished over the holidays.

Damn, I didn't think to get the wheel nuts done.

I paid $200 to get mine powder coated up here in Briz.

I have one and have had the boost curve plotted on a dyno. It basically looks the same as what a bleeder does (I had the bleeder curve plotted on the dyno as well). The boost rises fast, goes over the target boost slighly then settles back down at the set boost. Same response as a critically damped second order control system. Really easy to set-up as well. Just two identical runs in learn mode.

You have to balance the cost with risk. You build the boost controller wrong or it doesn't work boom. Same goes with the other kits. The also look like they are made the most cheapest way possible. Single sided boards, no ground planes...etc.etc.etc....

No they haven't. Make it $350 then. You guys are a tough crowd.

If you want one just send me a PM and I'll orgainise it.

If it helps I got mine for $380 and could probably organise the same for anyone. No special quantites or anything. Let me know.

I had a bleeder and did a dyno run recording boost, then installed the HKS IV and did another dyno run. The curves for boost were identical. Having said that, the electronic boost controller does give you ease of adjustment, hi/lo settings, scramble mode and a boost gauge.

No just the injectors. I upgraded to some 550cc items.

I'm not a believer in the BOV. Intuitively it doesn't hold up.

I am about to install a 044 in my tank. My research has shown that it needs its own wiring from the battery as stated by gtst25. It is rated at 15amps. Also when switching a seperate relay from the factory wiring make sure you attach the ground to the chasis and not the ground return from the factory wiring. The factory has a two speed controller which switches resistors into the ground line.

Standard R32 GTR Injectors. $400.00

They covered this in a magazine a month or two back. They said that because the block is cast iron and the head is alloy the metals have different thermal properties. They are designed to be at tollereance when hot. So the recommended procedure was to do light driving to warm it up as this was quicker and caused less damage.

Yes the Bosch 044 is a 15 Amp pump, I was just considering using the wiring from the stock pump to switch a relay to run the Bosch. But if the voltage is changing I will have to think it though a bit more.

I've heard that the standard ECU runs two speeds on the stock fuel pump. Can anyone confirm this either way ?