SPINR31

i changed the coolant temp sensor and played around with the tps, its cleared up mostly, still a little cough but if you let it warm up for 15 or 20 seconds its completely fine

that's my guess, it did it in the old car now its doing it in mine.....i might swap the ignition coil and see if it helps

so i have tried so far: 1, Spraying crc contact cleaner on the AAC Connector, Both sides of the coil, Air Reg connectors, tps connector...... 2. tried having a play around with the tps, fully clockwise it idled lower, didnt fix the issue with the spluttering..fully anti clockwise the issue wasnt any better but it idled higher 3. unplugged afm and it idled like shit, wouldnt rev etc so i know the afm works. im baffled as to what it is

the throttle position sensor? i wouldnt have any idea what it looks like or how to adjust it

HI all, So i just recently got a second hand engine installed after i blew my last one up.. all is well except for this really annoying cough/splutter on a cold start just off idle... if you try and put any load on the engine when it is cold (around 1000rpm) it will cough and splutter to the point of stalling. i recorded a video so you will know what im on about: i have replaced: Leads (top gun) plugs (NGK) Air Regulator (off another motor) i also took the injectors, fuel rail and afm off my old motor which had no issues and it still does it. if its worth mentioning: 1. Car is a manual conversion (never had issues before) 2. all is fine when it is warm 3. it seems to idle a lil low when cold(around 800 - 900rpm, could be more or less as i have a sticky tacho), but a little high (1100 rpm when warmed up)

yer i was going to take it to wade cams in melbourne, having said that who does lifter cradle machining, closest to bendigo

yer cheers, i thought it may have been, do you know if vl and r31 CAS are the same? i read somewhere that the vl use hitachi ones and the r31 use mitsubishi? but does it matter

nah this is a different motor to my old one that was knocking, it was knocking the same though with the new motor, which leads me to believe that it is the lifters, or rockers as they are the only bits from my old engine. yer i have heard that to but i dont know the specs for the cam so i dont know how much needs to be machines off the lifter blocks

it was a mate that rebuilt it, all the bearings were NOT changed at all, he im not sure if he checked valve clearance

Ok so im having some issues with me new engine. got a reco cammed rb30 put in, needed to use a few parts off my old engine. - Lifters - Whole Intake System - Whole Fuel System (rails, plugs injectors etc) - flywheel. - wiring, ecu, trans, clutch etc were left intact while engine was replaced (not replaced) 1st Issue: this engine knocks exactly like my last one although not quite as bad (happens anywhere between 1500 and 3200 approx rpm), this engine has a mild stage 2 cam in it.......it is currently usuing the lifters out of my other standard cam engine...same problem, i am almost adiment this issue is lifters but i need advice on what lifters to get because i dont know the cam specs. Youtube link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvmlchfBaE0 2ND ISSUE; When the car gets to normal operating temps (anything over a quarter on the gauge) it randomly starts misifring as if the engine cuts out completely for a minute amount of a second......doesn't do it when its cold, only when it is getting warm, few people have told me Crank Angle Sensor but i'm not sure... Cheers in advance guys.

bump

HI all, i am not getting very good fuel consumption on my rb30e, seems to be alot worse when i give it a boot full. i know you will say that it uses more fuel when you flog it but if i were to drive reasonable (blockies etc, maybe a few skids) it will empty a 1/4 tank in less than 30 mins definately can smell fuel (maybe unburnt fuel). there is no misfire. doesnt use excessive oil. any help? PS: also got told i should change the oil and fuel filters aswell as the oil, but where is the fuel filter located? PSS: has anyone got a great running (no knocks etc) rb30 for sale in victoria? thanks, Kayne

Best 3Dmark 06 score: 22929 (@3.8ghz, no gpu overclock, no phys x)

Case: Antec 1200 w/ 3 cm silent green fron fansMotherboard: Gigabyte ga-ex58-ud5CPU & CPU Cooler:Intel Core i7 920 w/ CM V8RAM: 10GB DDR3 ~ 6GB OCZ 1866mhz + 4GB corsair dominator 1600mhzMonitor: Samsung 2253BWGraphics Card: nVidia Geforce GTX280HDD(s): 8 Hard Drives, 9TB Total StorageOS Used: Windows 7 x64 Ultimate SP1 + Windows Vista x64 Ultimate SP2 + Windows XP x86 Pro sp3 + Mac OSx 10.6.4 (still in trial stage)Peripherals: Typical Stuff

i started it today and with close eye i couldnt see a leek from any of the power steering hoses, but sure enough there was stil smoke and "burning oil smell" coming from the headers (directly under the pipe that leads from manifold to air pod but im not sure what it was or is

all i did was build little mini boxes for them to raise them and have them facing me, so as to eliminate them sitting on the parcel shelf

pro tip: dont cheap out on wiring, use the good stuff like Rockford Fosgate

yer i ran power down one side, rca's down the other, amp ground is always >10cm away except where it is plugged into amp

i wouldnt worry to much but it wont hurt

seems i cbf reading all the replies ill just post how i did mine Did the big 3 upgrade (Engine to Chassis, Alt to Battery, Battery Ground) When connecting the terminals on the batt i scrubbed away any corrosion, and i sanded back a spot on the front right whell arch for batt ground. i ran 4awg from batt through the firewall, under the carpet (down right side of car) and up behind the back seats. i then screwed cap and t block to back seat, i grounded the cap to the seat mount. amp is grounded to the boot release (i sanded the paint back) rca's are going from head unit, around and under the carpet (where the front passenger sits) down the left side of the car under carpet and up behind the seats. as for sound deadening i put 1/2inch hard compound foam from clark rubbers under the number plate, found i still had heaps of rattle tho so i glued the boot lid back to the fram using sikaflex glue..... and that fixed rattle alot i havnt yet gotten to put sound deadener in yet tho but while your at it where the boot closes, put foam or rubber under the lip (around where the release clip is) and pretty much anywhere where there is 1 inch or less clearence (to accomodate flex) hope this helped

i know whats wrong. the AMP is 180rmw which is 180rms divided by the 2 channels. so if you bridge the subs in parralel and then into them amp, you will be delivering only 90rms to each sub, and the impedance will be 2 ohm (assuming you have SVC subs and have put all the +'s into the plus on channel 1, and all the -'s into - on channel 2

i could troll and say sony is POS but i wont. instead i recommend atleast getting good wire and rca's (i use rockford fosgate gear). that should fix your problem, if not the problem could be ground related

all that amp on is, is a 5a(i think) 12v power signal, so you can run a thin 14awg wire like this: batt > switch > amp, and jsut flick the switch when you wanna turn it on, else just run a wire from + on your amp to the remote connection but your amp will stay on

theres no pirtek or enzed in my town, but i mite give them a ring in shepp and see what they quote

alright, im going to disconnect belt and drive to pedders, but they quoted 250-300 to repair the hose, test it and fit it i mite get them to check over my other hoses will they are at it. they said they arent readily available so they will have to replace the hose