Grey

I had to make this decision a few weeks ago firstly panel and pod are nearly identical in performance, so I ende up going the pod filter. Why you ask? 1. I built a heat shield 2. I modified the stock CAI so it delivered cold air to the pod 3. I liked the difference in sound when you put the pedal down 4. Fuel efficiency has been improved either due to hot air being sucked in an therefore leaner fuel has been used OR more power has been delivered because of the same amount of fuel or less therefore less fuel has been used 5. It was just something to do in my holidays Panel filter will do the same thing, get a high flow one, the stock airbox and snorkel is excellent! I know there has been many topics on pod vs panel but in the end I believe a pod with a good CAI and heat shield wins if you can invest time and money.

friend drives an integra type s and called my car a shitline

probably the battery

1. Mods on N/A cars are not worth the money : kW outcome 2. Only real power = engine mods 3. Engine mods are illegal (points back to point 2) 4. Engine mods are expensive (points back to point 1) 5. Even if a turbo was bolted on, max power with awesome mods won't be greater than 300kW at the wheels 6. Value of the car stays the same, if not decreases because of the mods 7. If an RB25DET was dropped in, brakes, suspension, gear-box, clutch, ECU...etc...would all need to be upgraded which defeats the purpose of "cheap turbo" 8. I'm running out of single digit numbers

I know what you mean! Had this old guy roll down his passenger window joking about how fast my car was at the lights(he thought it was a GTR), i told him it was non turbo and slow, then he said to me yeah it's only slow in this type of traffic -_- Trust me everyone will think it's fast but at all costs, don't rice it up lol

if you're buying an r34 n/a don't buy it for the performance as you will be very disappointed, buy it for the looks and experience in driving the car, sure it's not as quick as an integra/prelude/xr6/commodore/pulsar/some civics/s2000/supra n/a/magna you get the point (it's one of the most slowest N/A cars out there) take it apart and do minor fixes / repair/ services yourself and learn more about the car so when you do upgrade to the GTT or GTR you're able to know the car that you drive better as for this thread, i have a feeling it'll turn into another FWD vs RWD

bump

That looks like a very nice car, I wander what the specs are and if it's a computer on wheels like the GTR

grab an xr6 or a commodore, seriously NA skyline is VERY VERY VERY slow, even compared to civics they are just a tad faster, it's absolutely ridiculous, please don't make the mistake I did and buy a NA skyline! the neo rb25de gives an extra 7kW of power too, but DONT buy one for performance! The car you have now would probably smoke a NA skyline straight up

wish i had got my SAU card earlier =.= spent about 600-700 now from there

Just had a pod filter installed and changed the coilpacks about 1 month ago, after the pod filter change and controlled sensible driving, I managed 11.03L/100km. O2 sensor working fine, I'm happy, I could perhaps even turn it down more and become a granny driver and maybe I'll get 9-10L per 100km who knows Full tank estimate: 700km

i believe it is only the gtr with the interior seat differences and the exterior colour differences

Wrong section, post in the wanted to buy section or use the search

What's equivalent to the old 1998-2002 GT-T or GTR skylines nowadays where you get bang-for-buck performance? That's not for 200,000 dollars or for a super-car? A car that is able to be built up and not bought? Something for like 60,000 dollars where mods are not so restrictive? Also a car that can retain the feeling of a RWD / AWD and manual transmission. How about the nissan 370Z? What is a car that has heaps of street credit? Or is there no such thing these days?

looks awesome! wish i had the skills to do something like that =[

coil packs WILL fail if you have an R34, R33 and R32 are a different story it's actually quite easy to get to the coilpacks and change them yourself, just takes about 4 hours if it's your first time, you'll need a socket wrench, allen keys and pliers. DON'T make the same mistake I did and change 1 coilpack and 1000kms later, another one failed costing me an unnecessay 350dollars extra! Replace the spark plugs while you're at it too and DON'T cheap out When the mechanic did it he put in 6 copper spark plugs and a 2nd hand coilpack When I did it, I put in 6 new iridium spark plugs and 6 new yellow jacket coil packs, not a problem ever since! DON'T CHEAP OUT! EDIT: yellow jacket coilpacks are 420 dollars inc delivery (they are almost identical in performance / durability compared to spitfires)

do awd have better launch than rwd and fwd?

lol? speak to iron chef on the forums here he'll hook you up

haha yeh it did so true, this is hilarious, i know how funny naturally aspirated cars are especially the NA forum because i own one and i can just empathise the frustration of having such a slow car =D

rofl, that is hilarious you can actually make a BOV sound on a naturally aspirated car, look at mighty car mods tv on youtube, they did it, but it's all fo sho bro, don't rice your car, just keep it stock and sell it when u off your Ps and get a GTR

rofl what a load of crap

cools ill just leave my car stock then

2.5inch catback exhaust will make my engine more responsive and provide more torque as opposed to stock exhaust!?

NA skylines defs not worth it, i have one and kinda regret it, always wanting more power out of it wish i could have a turbo and run boost and keep increasing boost! i recommend if it's not urgent, get a R32 GTR or a R34 GTT and mod it up in your garage, strip it again and again understand it more, then once u hit your fulls just drive it everywhere knowing the car u know and understand inside and outside!

disgusting smell remains, do i have to change my whole stock exhaust to change the catalytic convertor? because i'm looking for an excuse to get a catback