DR JOSH

Have been through a rebuilt FJ box before and I wouldnt bother again myself, the syncros crapped themself pretty quickly afterwards with some spirited driving as the are fairly weak. One miss shift in the heat of the moment and they would be dead again. As for gearbox options, I'm currently running an RB20DET twin syncro box, not the strongest box out (around the same strength as an FJ box though) but the syncros are smooth as, they are cheap (around $500) and I personally have seen them handle 200-220RWKW FJ20's fairly well with no dramas and they have very similar gear ratios as standard. Other then that there is the RB25 box if you are worried about popping boxes, you will never break a 25 box however these are expensive ($1500+) Both need the same mods to fit which are fairly simple. Just need 2 top holes of the bell housing elongated, and your gearbox cross member will need to be modified as it sits about 1" further back, I have done 3 of these now for me and friends. Gearstick comes out in the standard position and tail shaft is the same for RB20 only need a new tail shaft for RB25/Z32 as they are longer and have a different output shaft Then as others have said the Z32 option, I haven't mucked around with these before so dont know much about them except there are about 10 different variaties and gear ratios out there, and your looking about the same strength as an RB25 box.

My point exactly I'm lucky to come in here once a month if that to have a look and rarely ever post in here. I have been on the recieving end of Ghostriders rubbish before as far as I'm concerned why post in here and have any type of input when I just cop flack for it? You may even get new people posting in here if this type of shit didnt go on. I dont give a shit about people having their opinions on a way a car is modified (I know I have mine) but it seems more often then not it is taken a few steps too far and turned into a personal attack as is proven earlier in this thread Because the "offender" seems to be buddy buddy with the only moderator that comes in here

Another thread f**ked by Ghostrider, something different. Another reminder why I dont bother with this place

You can take chassis dyno torque figures with a grain of salt, only real way to get torque figures is on an engine dyno.

It'll be fine, on a power run the dyno operator will only rev it till it starts dropping power and that will be way before it gets even close to 8000rpm probably closer to 5000-5500rpm on an L-block Be warned if you've never had you car on a dyno before it can be worrysome watching it stand up for the first time

I reckon it is one and the same, but now it's smashed front and rear so it's probably not even worth $20

Doesnt really sound to me like your injectors are blocked, it sounds more like they are dead. It would be worth while to just pay the $100 or so and get them all tested, and cleaned. That way you would know that you have a near new set of injectors which are all flowing the same

Awesome mate, well done

It shouldn't, that's what I didn't get either

So your injectors are pulsing but not spraying any fuel? Or are they just not doing anything at all? My injectors sat for 5 years + before I used mine without any dramas

Those rear gaurds look terrible. And in a setup car 350HP isnt much of a handful at all, have driven KE30, datto 1600, bluebird and EVO6 tarmac rally car in excess of that and they were all good as and super fast around Mallala

I have 2 aussie spec gaurds on the front of my DR, the only difference I found with them was the holes for the badge and the holes for the pod of the DR body add ons, which was as easy to change as drilling 3 small holes. Never understood why people pay so much for DR gaurds, mine cost $20 each for mint ones from the wreckers

Bit of a change of heart over the past 2 months then I take it

Yup I sourced them through nissan, they were alot cheaper then I expected

Webber held his line the whole time. Why should he drop his line and a shit load of pace just to let a pushy team mate fit in where there was no room

This knancross and what not is something I'm really keen to have a crack at one of these days, I have enough cars around the place I can use, I just always seem to be too busy. Building cars then fixing them all for mates none of my own cars. Gonna have to look into it

Rx7 injectors arent very good for use in cylinder motors, the spray pattern is not very nice and most of the time you'll struggle to get a decent idle. They are a decent size for cheap but your better off spending that little bit more for some proper injectors. I bought a set for my motor originally back in the day, and we had to go through 8 or 9 injectors before we found 4 that flowed the same and werent f**ked

My car isnt gonna make it, it's currently in a heap of pieces and wont be anywhere near ready. Will probably come out for a look at the track day, not interested at all in the show and shine

Nice! I want

You will never get 15k for a DR30

My mates old man works at A1 steering and suspension at seaford, they would probably be able to help

CA20 boxes are also f**king shit and will be blown up in no time. I know I ran one behind my CA18det bluey which was dead standard apart from exhaust and still shat a box

I'm gonna try and have my car ready for the track day, hopefully I dont pop a motor before then. No show and shine for my POS however

Put a Pintara front crossmember in your car, and it's pretty much a bolt in job. But no your current gearbox wont bolt up to an SR20, you will need an SR box.

What type of fitment you chasing? Do you want an aggressive offset or??? This is my car when I bought it, with 15 x 7 +10 sits in quite a bit. My car now a touch more aggresive 17" x 10" +20 on the rear, wheels are still easily in the gaurds currently has 235 stretched on but it can and has fit 275 with no scrub.