DR JOSH

Rear pads are the same as MR30 hatch but different to sedan. If ya want the part number for a alternator I dare say I can have a look at mine for ya seeing as how it's just laying on the floor in the garage. And geez it looks like jaustech have up'd there prices last one I bought was $170.

It's all cool. I will still have my shot at collingrove for the hillclimbs and sprints at mallala as I love motor sport no matter what and also all of the competition between me and all my mates, but I know my one true love, MY DR30 . hehehe With a few slight suspension changes here and there it should really do quite well on the track I reckon, as it has quite the setup and I love the feed back I get through the wheel driving it.

Yes it is just for show really as I have quite a lot of sets of 15's (hr31 wheels the manifold is sitting on) and 16's the car will spend most of it's time running on. And my speedo was way out on 195/50 15's so I suspect aftermarket diff ( was once pulled over for 90 in a 80 zone, speedo was readin a bit over 110) so that doesnt really worry me. And yes this car has a very drift based setup, a motorsport alot of people on this forum wouldnt be interested in I know , thats why I really dont mention it or I seem to find old school people don't take you seriously even though I am and have been in the scene for quite a long time B)

Mines an RS and stripey.

Sorry to get ya hopes up thats an s13 strut brace I borrowed off a mate to see how far off they are, about 25mm wider

Mine origanally had had black with red stripes across the seats inserts, where as my good mates DR has a black interior with the full inserts red interior. Before it hit a tree and returned bright green, you will also see 16 x 8 watanabe's

Just mild steel

Ya can't get much more affordable rubber than 235 45 17", commodore sizes and cheaper than the last pair of 215 50 16" I bought in the same tire. Theres nothing wrong with a bit of stretch Fantasy performance manifold B)

It's all pretty straight forward, a couple of hard to get to bolts here and there. With mine it was mainly a problem of rusted bolts and stripped threads.

Nah just gonna leave black bumpers and black strip down the center of the car, but color code the front lip and factory skirts and pods.

Just had a quick look just then, gonna be similar but a fair bit more purple to it.

I know exactly what that feels like, my car sat for about 6 months with only 1 side of the car sanded. Now it is all done just needs a bit of smoothing out (bog work )

I wanted to get away from the standard DR colors so I am looking to go a dark purpley bluey color.

Just though I'd chuck up some photos of my beast before paint work, then I can put some up after. The motor is currently in being machined. B)

How about an external aftermarket oil pump. I dont know how doable or pricey it would be but could be an option.

From what I have seen in the DR's that come up for auction on yahoo Japan, they have a tendecy to run GTI-R looms with the power FC as Gtir still run a dizzy. But if you are going to go to that much effort you might as well go a full aftermarket comp, microtech or haltech or something.

There is a hatch at lonsdale u-pull-it with 90,000km on the clock . In absolutely mint condition apart from parts I and everyone else have stolen off of it, along with a very slighty pushed in bonnet.

Just do a bit of panel beating to that one once you have it off.

Exactly but you just have to be prepared to wait for a little while. I have been waiting 7 weeks for a set of wheels but thats with a few delays for one reason or another. Not through Zac though by the way.

being a 15+ year old car compliance should be easy as, I know when I imported my car it was another $700 on top of purchase price for compliance.

Maybe but my lines are out of an MR30 and they were the same the DR ones. Another idea is you could simply grind the thread back so it isn't quite as long, That is what a mate of mine did.

On mine I just pulled that little bit out of the caliper that is ment to seal on, so I could run the standard r30 line with the copper washer to seal it all in. Either that or just get some braided lines made up which is what I will be doing soonish.

With the s13 setup you will be running an extra 40mm track over all I measured it all up. My setup I pretty much have up and running just need to sort out steering linkages. But I'm running modded bluey crossmember (chopped bluey mounts off welded DR30 mounts on), bluey rack with s13 tie rods on the ends, s13 control arms, s13 adjustable castor rods with a few mods to mounting possie's. I have driven my mates bluey with this exact setup running similar camber & castor settings to what I will be running and over all it aint too heavy non power steer, I have driven worse. And the steering lock is unbelivable. But if worse comes to worse I have a z31 power steer rack which is almost identical to bluey.

I Dont really have all that much experience with the mechanical side of things but seem to make do with it all. When ya sit down and have a look at how it all fits together you really get a sense of what will and wont work.

yes I have already looked into this. S13 control arms are exactly the same as bluebird in every way but the radius rod mounts with 2 straight holes rather than off at an angle like bluey. So running s13 control arms on the bluey crossmember will allow the use of the standard radius rods. I have also lined up a standard r30 swaybar next to a standard bluey swaybar and they seem to be exactly the same shape so mounting swaybar should be no problem. And mounting a FJ on a bluey cross member is easy as too. As you would no doubt know. I love Nissan interchangabilty :jump: