salival

Hi Guys, I have an R32 GTS that was stolen and recovered a while ago.. I did the whole rb20det swap while I was getting it back on the road.. Like most guys, I opted for a warlboro intank pump thinking it would do the job.. Well, About 6 months to the day I got it going again, the pump gave up the ghost just after it had been for its newest WOF (warrant of fitness here in NZ).. The car is my dailydriver so I had to pool all my money together and commit to overkilling the fuel system! As a bit of a background, I make alloy car/industrial products/tig weld for a living, so I made the surge tank in house.. It was just sitting idle not finished (no mounts or a mount for the pump) when the original pump decided to go chug chug bang. So, I purchase a Bosch 044 External from a trade electronic supply local to me ($325 +gst), 4 meters of 5/16" fuel hose (8mm) and my auto electronic mate wired it up for me.. I used a standard rb20de fuel pump as the lift pump.. this is still wired from the factory wiring, the trigger for this pump also triggers the bosch via a relay. I had doubts at first that it was keeping the tank full.. but it definitly is.. This tank was made by me when I first started welding (about 8 mnths ago) Fittings are standard 3/8"bspt, using a speedflow -8 male weldon on the bottom (rewelded a new one after I dropped the tank landing on the taper, stuffing the fitting!) It goes from speedflow -8male to -8female to -8 female coupler then to -8 male to m16x1.5 on the pump.. I needed the pump to connect to standard skyline fittings, I can't afford to convert the whole system to -6 from the pump to the rail at the moment, so I got a m14x1.5 to -6 adaptor and welded an 8mm nipple onto a -8 cap.. works great. I'll never outflow this system and it is definitly overkill.. but i'm happy. The tank is constructed out of 100x100x3mm alloy, 3mm base/top/bottom.. The spacer lugs / base are temp for the moment till I can afford an inline -8 filter, then I'll remake the base again with that filter.. I'm also going to put a proper grommit where the lines come through the body, they are sealing fine now.. but I want to be able to trust it.. it's just temp for the moment! Any questions/criticisim feel free.. Now, with pics:

Greetings, I used a VL commodore flywheel on my r32 skyline w/ rb20det conversion.. Mine doesnt have a locating dowel in the back of the crank, nor a hole for it in the flywheel. After 15k of abuse w/ my daiken exceedy HD clutch.. still kicking 3rd gear no problems...

Hi Guys, I recently had a warlboro pump die on me so I went the whole hog and installed my surge tank + bosch 044.. I'll do a writeup on how I did everything.. I fabbed the tank my self..

Hi SK, Been looking at this group buy for a while now.. Was wondering if you'd be able to do anything the same in New Zealand? Understand it's not probably the easiest but i've been looking for one of these setups for a while (I quite like Whiteline gear) even if I can get the Bilstiens revalved over here or similar.. Or any idea about freight from AU > NZ? Thanks, Scott R

Hiya, These are oil cooler cores, using oil cooler tubes, our intercooler (tube + fin) cores are alot different, the tubes are alot bigger.. We have used these oil cooler cores for intercoolers in the past with good success.. but 90% of our product is aimed at industrial side of thing.. i.e very durable.. still performs great though. We weld the tanks on as well as the tube to header welds, you're thinking of how most alloy products are made (basically heating them till pre melt stage and fusing them together) this is just another way of doing it except we're welding instead of heating (same principle, tho)

Hi all.. I'd like to start by saying this is probably going to be a work/perve in progress.. I'll give you all a little bit of background into my job.. I work for a radiator wholesaler and manufacture in Christchurch, New Zealand, We make brass cores and alloy oil/inter coolers and also alloy radiators (we dont make radiator cores, only import) I started out on sales for about a year, the head tech from the alloy department emo resigned and I got pushed into his job since they were stuck and needed someone with a bit of drive.. I've been in this job fabricating and welding for about 6 months now, I've gone from having 0 fab/welding skills to being semi decent.. Tig welding is getting better by the day.. Now, I have to do alot of practise, we do alot of jobs for showcars and so on.. small minute welds for tube to header plates for the oil/intercoolers and I got sick of making scrap just to throw in the bin.. so why not do my own stuff? Hello race radiator! Hello oil cooler! <-- closeup of oil cooler core stacked, core is about 230x200x50mm <-- closeup of tube to header welds, these tubes are welded individually.. takes a long time on huge cores (1000x500x60 intercoolers etc) <-- closeup of core with tank material sat ontop of it, tank/core has not been prepped for welding yet. <-- close up of tube to header welds after being welded, only had 3 tiny leaks and they were in the corners (where you start/stop) of the welds.. not bad <-- closeup of the prepped tank material, each side has been bevelled as when I weld it on the outside, I feed the amps in along with the filler rod (5535 hi tensile) After we have it at the tube to header stage we chalk and dye pen test.. basically I spray chalk (LD3 Developer) onto the outside of the header where the welds are, On the tubes towards the header (about 15mm back from the header) I carefully drop dye penetrant.. this stuff is gold, we leave it on dye pen for about a day for oil coolers, it will show up the tiniest of leaks.. I didnt manage to take a picture of my core being dye pen'd but I have one of another to give you an idea.. <-- oil cooler core on dye pen, this is another I welded (no leaks at all) apart from when I ground the outside of the tube to headers back so the tank would fit, this introduced a leak as you can see, the red in the inside of the tubes is a light on the other side of the core.. <-- closeup of the leak, it was an easy fix, clean off with Acetone re weld and regrind and re test.. <-- core shot showing the dye on the tubes, its messy and does stain your hands.. but we wouldnt be without it.. if you leave the dye on there over the weekend.. it will just keep growing until it drys up.. So, that's my oil cooler, as of today (didnt take pics, sorry i'll take some with my digicam) it was completed, only leaks I had were on the ends of the tanks where I start/stopped.. easy fizzers to fix.. it's basically just got -10 fittings on each side of the core.. simple oil cooler but they are really really strong.. I'll also do a writeup on my race radiator that I did.. I dont have build pictures for it only of the end result, but that's ok.. I'll build my self a crossflow double pass 57mm thick race core soon which i'll take pictures of along the way.. I never said I was a welder, i'm just bumbling along, but every day I can notice my welding skills are getting better, I'm now looking back on past jobs i've done and going "eugh" because I know I can do better once my technique gets more refined.. Comments / criticisms are welcome.. Btw, all my welding is done with a watercooled Miller Synchrowave 400 jobbie.. 400 amps of tigging power.. it's great

From memory they have a radius'd top to the bit where the nut goes on.. could this be "releived" ?

Quoted from cubes: "GTS4diehard, with your subframe bushes did you notice the new ones were slightly taller than the origionals?" I supplied a friend of mine with some noltec subframe mounts at trade price since he's a lowly builder, he also commented they were alot taller and had fears they wouldnt bolt up.. I'm assuming he got them to fit however.. How'd you get around it?

Hi, I'm in Christchurch New Zealand.. I'm after one of these controllers but no-one wants to post.. I'd be very keen to pay your $25 AUD + freight to NZ + a bonus if you were keen on sending to New Zealand.. I can transfer funds via paypal if you're keen.. Thanks, Scott Roberts.

Hi, I work for a radiator shop in New Zealand, We do cleanouts/alloy race rads/oil coolers etc.. (I manufacture race rads/intercoolers) I would recommend getting your radiator rodded out (cleaned out) and a new top tank put on. I can't say if this will fix your temp problem, but go to the most obvious problem first, maybe your radiator is actually blocked.. I've pulled apart 2000 model cars and they have been as blocked as they can be.. Just a thought.

Sigh, I'm in Christchurch, New Zealand.. I want one... Anyone want to send me one?

Hi, It's your air conditioning compressor.. Best to take it to a radiator shop or an a/c shop.. Thanks, Scott Roberts.

I used an RB30 VL Commodore Flywheel on my rb20det.. Mine was originally auto so it had no locating dowel..

How do you mean free travel? I've been through 2 slave cylinders in my r32 gts.. I'm using a HD clutch from daiken.. wondering if that is what's chewing the slave's out.. I've been told to adjust the threaded rod behind the pedal.. if so, which way? and where should my takeup point be.. it's currently about 2-3 inches off the floor

Not yet.. still waiting for my 5 stud rear... everyone at work keeps on asking me why its 5 stud front 4 stud rear.. patient I guess ;(

Yay, mine's AH3 - Red Metallic Pearl.. I wonder how many millions that will cost to get made up for some paint

You still can have those brakes on 4 stud.. While doing my conversion I used DBA 909 SL/SR rotors which are 5 stud and also 4 stud.. which means I could have kept my 4 stud.. but nah.. I'll pass..

I dont like the idea of that.. I'd rather use the proper setup and have no problems..

Hi Sk, Long time listener, first time caller.. Been following this post for a while and finally did my first cambelt + water pump today on my skidder.. it's not so bad! have a question about the timing of it, though.. Put everything back into place as to where it was supposed to go re: white dots.. The belt I am using is supplied from my local trade parts place, it's a "mitsuboshi" which I thought was funny.. but it all fits nicely.. the belt has no timing marks on it.. As I said, everything is aligned as to where the dots were supposed to go.. so I assume the timing is at factory timing.. So basically, what i'm wondering is, do I need to set the timing after doing all this.. or will it be "factory"? Thanks, Scott.

I did a cambelt / waterpump on my r32 gts this weekend.. used this exact method.. take the Crank Angle Sensor plug off the front of the motor so it wont start and give it one short crank, worked perfectly..

I've been watching what cubes has been saying in a few threads.. I think from memory he has said EL falcon slimline thermos.. I'd really like to do away with the clutch fan..

Cubes: Are you still using the standard clutch fan, also? I really want to get rid of this when I do my engine conversion (going from rb20de to det).. can get a 16" thermo pretty cheap (I work for an aircon place)

My r32 gts was absolutly identical to an r32 gtst one.. apart from 7/8 and 15/16 on the side.. 7/8" is gts and 15/16 is gtst..

See, I've got an R32 GTS 4 door.. standard open wheel diff.. I bought the car stock as a rock.. Added a front adjustable strut brace, you could DEFINITLY feel the difference.. the body felt alot more solid.. My flatmate then made me a box section strut brace for the rear.. again, him being an engineer and not into cars he definitly noticed the difference as did I.. I've got an open wheel diff as I said.. 90% of the time at speed it now spins both wheels.. not just a single one.. Made a huge improvement.. Next thing i'm going for is sway bars..

I was pretty dissapointed with the bubbling.. but I've worked it out, where the bubbling is, you're not going to see unless the motor is out, so i'm just going to leave it.. Trying to figure out what to do with the coil pack cover.. wether to paint that blue, also or leave it black or paint it silver... I know where the nissan logo/twin cam 24v is i'm going to cut out and mesh it, so there's some air that gets in/out of there..