salival

okay, So after much debating about what color to go, I purchased some metalcast blue.. I've included some photos of my progress.. I apologise for the size of the images, thus why i'm linking to them.. I'm happy with the way the rocker covers turned out.. apart from the cambelt cover, the silver ground coat I applied looked very very attractive.. the blue that I put on was bubbling, so the cambelt cover has lots of bubbles on it.. damn faulty cans.. cambelt cover sandblasted.. doesnt it look pretty? cam cover with the groundcoat on it.. love the color. rocker cover painted with the groundcoat rocker cover close up.. love the finish of it.. cambelt cover and right rocker cover finished.. front on cambelt cover and right rocker cover painted right side

I can't say for sure on that one.. sorry.. I was going to use r33 gtst calipers + rotors.. but I never got around to finding any.. I'm happy with what I have now, there's definitly no fade and they work great.. It's just quite front bias'd at the moment with good 4 piston brakes on the front, and shiitty standard 4 stud brakes on the back with no name pads..

Yes, the gts master cyl was 7/8" bore.. the gtst is 15/16" (which means the gts is a 14/16") so the gtst definitly has a different bore.. I cant tell a difference between the gtst booster and the gts.. I'm using the gts booster at the moment (definitly smaller) because the gts booster was a bitch to get off from under the dash

Okay, a week later and here's my progess.. also, I havent got my rear end conversion yet (apart from lsd) so, I dont have any exp with that.. As I said in my 2nd post, The discs I was using were very undersize.. Got some DBA 909SL/SR's at a very good price and some Performance Advantage pads off trademe.co.nz.. Also a brand new 15/16" bore mastercyl (for a gtst) since my master cyl was leaking.. I can't say enough that this package I have for the front is very very good.. The Pads are rated as on par with Bendex Ultimates but without the dusting.. Have only had them in a day or so, so I can't comment on that aprart from she stops on a dime.. I do have pictures of everything, kind of.. But the money shot has to be: front 5 stud completed shot everything labeled to what I used. The above pic is all the labeled things I used.. That was the exact setup on what I bolted in.. Will be running standard replacement rotors (non dba) on the rear with bendex ultimate pads.. (I think) I'm not going to worry about slotteds on the rear.. I think with having the 4 piston fronts with great pads + good rotors and my standard 4 stud rear brakes and unknown pads.. it's very front biased..

I used: Lower arm from gtst (didnt check if they were different from the gts) 5 stud hub (of course) upper arm from gtst the ladder arm/bars that go from the upper arm to the body (the ones that the bushes always need replacing in) from my gts since I had not long ago replaced the bushes.. 4 piston caliper from gtst brake line from gtst It all bolted straight up, took me ages to get the ladder bar into the upper arm.. but it's a very awkward spot to do it in.. going to attack the drivers side today.. it's a bloody shame its freezing and cold and raining here.. but it's got to be done.. OH! also while I was doing my passengers side last night, antifreeze was pissing out of the water pump.. looks like i'm up for a new one Well, the front is all done now.. have had a few issues but am working through them.. The gtst master cyl I had sitting around is definitly past its used by date, I think.. it's pissing fluid out the ass of it.. I had read that if they are sitting around for a while the seals perish.. rather than rekit it, i'll just get a whole new master cyl.. repco want $161 for one (15/16th bore) so i'll wait till monday and get one from BNT/Brake and Clutch.. And i'm pretty sure the disks are under size as well.. under heavy braking they shudder alot.. still havent got the crap off them, but it's slowly wearing off the outside.. front converted to 5 stud.. just need to do the rear

weather permitting.. i'll be doing this on the weekend.. from what i've been "told" I need the lower arm connecting to the cross member and to the bottom of the hub from the gtst.. But i'll be doing it this weekend, so i'll post up my progress as I do it.. I'm only converting the front at this stage (dont have a rear conversion, yet) but I have the 4 mags..

You might also want to check which size your master cylinder is.. it's stamped on the side.. gts-t is 15/16

Hi, I have searched, but havent found any or much info on converting a R32 GTS to 5 stud. (mainly siliva/cef/laurel) Basically, I have some 5 stud parts for the front, wondering what exactly i will need.. I have: 5 stud hubs, discs, calipers, brake lines, lower arm and upper arm.. do I just swap the 5 stud hub with my 4 stud hub, or Will I need to swap the lower/top arm as well? 5 stud hub + upper arm lower arm Would the same go for the rear, also? I'm getting a whole subframe from a gtst in the next few weeks which I can swap over.. but would it be easier to just swap calipers/discs/hubs? Thanks.

Okay, so the steering wheel now fits.. What i've had to do to get this going is: I took the indicator stalk control box thingy from the coupe and replaced the one on the 4 door with the one from the coupe, fits great, works the same.. all I had to do was change the horn wire.. the one from the coupe with the hicas controls integrates the horn into the hicas plug.. I cut the plug from the 4 door loom and joined that with the one coming from the hicas boss kit (I think it's a boss..) It all bolts up and fits up, horn works great.. It's good having a coupe you can steal parts from hehe

Hi, I've got an r32 gts 4 door non hicas, and I want to exchange the steering wheel with one from an r32 gts coupe w/ hicas.. Will I need a bosskit for this wheel? going from a hicas car to a non hicas... I've searched through these forums.. but i've found no information telling me about this..

r32 gtst gearbox recon Here's a link to a page on SDU that describes it for an R32 box.. hope this helps.

Roy: If i'm following correctly (which I have been follwing your progress for a while, you give us great information.. basically the pad is overhanging the disc by approx 1mm or so (confirmed by looking in your photos) .. Now to run these bigger diam discs arent you using spacers or similar to space the calipers out? couldnt you just use 1mm smaller spacers.. or am I not understanding the whole spacer idea? Because i'm building a track attack/drift/drag car at the moment and i've been heavily interested in the caliper brackets for mounting the 324mm rotors or whatever size they are.. but not if I get funky brake problems.. Your thoughts?

And i'm guessing all you would need is a seal kit, time and some patience?

up to the top!

I have to agree, that's one nice looking gtst.. and a *REAL* shame about the fire.. I'm in the same boat right now.. I bought a stolen and recovered r32 GTS with intentions of it being a fulltime drift/drag car.. really undecided as to what i'm going to do with it.. but for the moment it's had the rb20de pulled and i'm going to drop a rb20det/rb20det box in also and slowly build up a rb30det on an engine stand in the garage..

Any idea of a total price (cooler and postage and packaging) to Christchurch, New Zealand?

Just purchased an r32 coupe.. has a goddy steering wheel as standard.. E-HCR32 HCR32-086661 KRCR32RGFELMSF TH1 G FS5W71C RC43 From what i've been reading.. it has a godzilla steering wheel and viscious lsd as standard?

http://skeleton.net.nz/~oiad/manuals/ Shh!

Crikey.. seems i transferred close to 4gb yesterday and about 1.8gb today (upstream) since I posted that link.. didnt expect the volume to be that much.. May have to take them down heh, it seems someone posted the link from my site on another site somewhere.

Just set up ftp for it also.. hostname: skeleton.net.nz user: skyline pass: skyline enjoy

See my edited post above.. the r33 manuals didnt compress as much.. so I didnt compress them

I've placed a mirror on my server... but if it gets raped, I'll remove it.. i'm only 60kps upstream.. so be good! http://skeleton.net.nz/~oiad/manual/R32 - GTR Manual.rar (20.8MB) http://skeleton.net.nz/~oiad/manual/R32 - GTST Manual.rar (22.5MB) http://skeleton.net.nz/~oiad/manual/R33 - GTST+GTR Manual.pdf://http://skeleton.net.nz/~oiad/manual...+GTR Manual.pdf (149 MB) You may want to use a download resumer or something.. the server is pretty stable, but I see a few people starting, then stopping..

*taken from "cubes" signiature since I beleive it's a really helpfull guide* http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/rb30det/d.../diyrb30det.zip It contains a PDF explaining alot of stuff to do with the rb30 transplant, it does make for a viable option, though.. especially since you don't *need* to run forgies.. There's a guy in New Zealand (you know, baa baa sheep land) called RIPS on the skylines down under forum who makes the rb30 hybrid engines.. $3500 NZD for 2wd who's done quite alot of them.. he's running around with standard bottem end rb30's with rb25de heads with alot of success.. you may want to contact him.

Just bought my self a rolling body of an r32 coupe (gts) which has front and rear swaybars.. my 4 dr r32 gts has a front swaybar but no rear swaybar.. Interesting

I have an R32 GTS, which has hopes and dreams of becoming a gtst.. will be doing brakes + suspension + lsd before I do the engine.. so this is getting all the info down before I undertake it.. but i'm guessing a reco'd r32 gtst master cyl wouldnt be hugely expensive