Room42

Normal clamps were the bane of my existence until I bought a bunch of the ones shown in the pic in the first post. I haven't had issues since even without beads on some pipes. Another thing to consider is make sure you don't have any load on the pipes ie:get it all sitting nicely first then tighten them.

Sorry guys I must have had a big night when I posted that.

Power fcs are as gay as the day is is long. BUT!!! Holy f**k they are easy to tune.

Squealing is from tight or loose belts African Americanachi. Have a good feel of your visible belts. Maybe lay of the maccas. It could be your wife complaining. Mine does. Its a high pitched squeal the whole way there until her fat cake hole get filled. Nah kidding, she is a beautiful 5"10' 26 yro bitch! Or loosen your cam belt. But dont do that cos you dont know what the f**k you are doing.

I read the first two pages and gave up. There are some super highly skilled men commenting here. Maybe not me....but....it was not your intake manifold. A properly built turbo engine will break for 2 reasons. It went lean ... The timing was wrong which meant the it went lean... Bearings wont break overnight. Neither will rings. This is what happened to your engine after you signed the same waver I did when it went on the dyno. They were ramping it up (obviously) it went lean so they backed off quick as f**k. They went again and the same thing happened. This is their job and they really do get off it quick. Your car did see 13:1 tho. Probably twice Or f**king 10 times like mine did. Rob was a f**king good tuner and I was impressed at how quick he got off it.Mine saw some nasty shit but I forged it so I got lucky. We shared the look of "f**k" a few times. Man I can talk shit. Anyway I feel for ya bud cos it cost a lot of money. Pull it down and build it lowish comp and enjoy 300rwkw just like big balls ASH told me. My shorty only cost 3 g. Either that or build a tree we can all climb???

Dont be cheap flamin mongrel. Buy a proper turbo or suffer a f**ked engine.

I did read your thingo at the bottom of the page and have seen that you are full of shit or you are being had. You have 360rwkw and you are worried about a grand. STFU! I bought a 6 boost t3. Apart from the fact that Kyle forgot to send it to me I have not complaints. The f**ker caught on fire (my fault) and it didn't hurt it. It fit in the car very well. Awesome craftsmanship. Dont worry about money African American. I gave him $1900 for a manifold, a bunch of studs and gaskets and a 50 mm turbosmart wg. He made a profit from me. I dont care. Pay the money for the good shit and dont ask questions. This forum is for talking shit, not doing up your car.

Did I hear a stfu? Oh sorry that was me. The best place to mount that bitch is as close to the intake valve as possible. Passing air will take care of heat soak bitches. But mounting that shit in the port aint going to happen now is it bushies? Put it as close to your throttle body as possible. Right where your f**king blow off valve should be. Just after that bitch. That is about an inch. Gota keep that pressure in the cooler now dont we?! (more swearing and cursing)

Can have a sucked in?!?!?! Anyway was trying out he antillag the other day. 25 head and 30 bottom. It has cp forged pistons and precision h beam rods. Metal head gasket etc. Made about 10 psi at only 1500 rpm. I was like "yeah man crank it up!". Saw about 28 psi at 4000rpm. Would have made it earlier maybe. I should mention that the afr for all this was about 10:1. I'm like "hmmmm" I wonder what will happen if I completely unwind the boost controller. So I did. The gauge goes to 30psi. It stopped working at about 40 psi. Car went a bit higher than that. 45, 50 maybe??? Judge by the vid bitches. Anyway the front and the back welshplugs in the head fell out. Front one was easy to fix. Cam gears off and tap the flamin mongrel back in. Ya know how the back on gets in aye. Bloody head off or hole saw through the dash. Note to self...dont try out crazy antilag boost when ya bored. That hunting aint what it seems It's me on the throttle keeping the oil there bitches. http://www.youtube.c..._id=8R2QXeSzOPs

1995 Series2 R33 GTSt. RB25/30 Flat top CP pistons Forged Precision H beam rods Polished standard size RB30 crank Stock 25 oil pump, 1.5mm restrictor, wide op drive Stock 25 vvt head, removed ex humps and intake cleaned up. No vvt. 6boost mani 50mm Turbosmart wg with 17psi springs plumbed into front pipe near cat GT3582r 3 inch front pipe, gutted stock cat, kakemoto catback. 600x300x100 bar and plate ic with 2.5 ic piping. Stock recirc valve with grub screw 910cc at 3 bar JECS sidefeed inj in stock rail with stock reg Walbro intank Haltech e11v2 HKS twin plate clutch Made 400rwhp (298rwkw) at 19 psi and 415rwhp (309rwkw) at 22 psi. Made 400rwhp by 4800rpm. Didn't bother turning it up more due to the stock head internals and restrictive air filter and exhaust. Full boost at about 3500rpm. The air filter was almost sucking itself inside out. The cat and catback are probably a restriction too but in saying that the car is very quiet. It is what it is. I'm not happy yet so better results yet to come

Ok I used the haltech and the big injectors from the get go. I figured I may as well as it would end up like that anyway. After a few adjustments the car idled fine. I tuned the free revving up to 4k rpm. Fifty clicks of off boost tuning to 4k rpm first up. After that, a bit more road tuning and I have a real nice fuel map up to about 5k rpm and only about 5 or 6 psi. I tuned while my mate drove. I got him to add a little more throttle each time so eventually I have a complete map. I'll clock up some more k's and gradually tune the boost and rpm into it. The car already pulls like a teenager at an olympic swimming event. It'll get on the dyno once it is unsafe to tune on the road. P.s I don't see the big deal with a twin plate clutch. It drives fine and my missus agrees. I scored mine for $500 cos the guys missus didn't like driving his car....

My aftermarket ecu already has a decent tune in it for the rb25det so it wont take much to adjust it for the 30. Probably a couple of percent on the fuel map will get it close to driveable, Also just shifting the big jump in the fuel map where it used to come on boost down 800 rpm or so. The standard computer does a good job of running the rb25 but maybe not so good at running a rb30 bottom end. I don't know.

I don't think running in should be underestimated although it can be done on the dyno. Yeah I noticed that there were lean parts with the 25 with the turbo setup coming on boost. It seemed to stay around twelve to one on boost though. Anyway I think I have enough now to make a choice. I was going to try the stock ecu etc and try the long run in to save money lol. Next week I will get the low rpm stuff done on the road with the aftermarket ecu and when it is "run in" I will head down the dyno and tune it. Oh well I guess the stock ecu can stay in the shed along with all the other stock parts (in case of defect). Thanks for the input guys

Even though we are better off these days with machining and parts I would still recommend some heat cycling before turning it up. What about the stock ecu though? That is what I was curious about.

And Jangles way. lol