Room42

When I had no exhaust or dump the turbo ran 17 psi on the gate which had a ten and a seven psi spring in it. Makes sense right? My current exhaust is comprised of a 3inch dump, 3inch front pipe, stock cat and 3inch kakemoto cat back. When I got the dump made and the exhaust put back on the turbo ran at 14 psi. I have a bleed valve and I have turned it up to 20 psi. The car goes fine. Its nice and quiet too. I know I can turn it up more too but due to other issues it will stay at low boost (under 20psi) for a while. When I get a better cat I will close the bleed valve and see how many psi it makes then. Of course it will be more than previously. The current exhaust setup killed 3 psi and the point of this post is is to show I will be losing less than 3 psi using a full 3 inch system. I agree with zebra. What is peoples definition of decent power? My car goes better than decent in my opinion. So when I have 1000kw does that mean I need a ten inch exhaust?

Mate I had a look at all the details of your tune. I would make significant changes to the ign map. There is as much as 10 degrees too much timing in some areas. Plenty of areas with nowhere near enough timing also. I would also change the afm settings. I would change the inj in many areas but not a hell of a lot. Is your boost control supposed to be on? I've pm'd you my number. Feel free to give me a call to have a chat.

I'm on my phone at work but I'll try not to wolverine.

Mate I don't want credit. I just don't want to hear stupid comments that don't help anyone. So far there since I joined sau I have seen 90 % bullshit and 10% truth

The thing is pal almost every time I post something on this site there is some smart arse telling me some stupid shit. I've had enough of teenagers and 20 something year olds repeating the same crap they have heard from others that know f**k all and haven't tried it themselves. There is one bloke I know for fact doesn't know his shit yet he keeps adding stuff to threads that he is repeating from others while I am pulling out what is left of my hair. When you start talking to me with the words " Is this a pisstake??" I am likely to tell you to get f**ked. Simple. Then you tell me to pull my f**king head in. Mate If you were standing face to face with me you wouldn't talk to me like that. Not because I would be aggressive but because you would realize that I have been working on cars for the last 20 years and I know what I'm on about. If you had posted you second post first then I wouldn't have blasted you. You say it will slip in 4th and 5th. Have a think about what speed I would be going to make 20 psi on a rb25det in 4th or 5th. That is a slighty stupid comment. But anyway no point carrying on about it. I'm sorry I came across like that. I just put you into the same basket as other know it alls and clearly I jumped the gun. The reasons are above. Thanks for the second post as it was very useful. The car has around 400 or more hp for now but will be turned up when it can handle it better ie: new clutch.

First up it seems you are giving me the same level of credit as you would give to a teenager. Secondly I'm interested as to how you came up with the wear factor on my clutch considering you haven't even seen my car let alone driven it or felt the clutch. I wouldn't waste my time posting if I was taking the piss. If you read my posts in other threads you would know that my clutch got burnt a while back when I loaned my car to someone. The clutch has got to come out anyway. If it isn't worn to shit and is only glazed then yes, it is going back in. Its only 18 months old and had about 200rwkw for the last 6 months.Before then the car was standard. I doubt the clutch is very worn. Believe it or not I really am going to pull my gearbox out and fix my clutch. That's what you do when a clutch starts to play up. It'll be out, cleaned and back in before Saturday afternoon. Just because a clutch slips doesn't mean its f**ked. If its not worn then after I clean it all it will grip as good as the day it was made for the rest of its life. Like I said I have done this to numerous cars previously. I have discussed this with my missus (shared finance) and we have decided that it will go back in if it can. If it cant then we will go all out and get a twin plate. I'm not going to spend $600 or so getting a clutch that wont handle the power that I will have next year. At the worst it will slip because it isn't strong enough and I'll get my twin plate. I'm not about to rush out and spend nearly $3k on a clutch because a the current clutch is slipping. Of course I will clean it up first. If you have something good to add then by all means leave a comment. Next time you want to jump in my thread and leave useless comments just do us both a favour and don't. DOBZ: I hear ya. I don't need to tell the missus to stick it tho. We already decided on a plan. I will see if I can fix this clutch first and then if I cant I will go and get something that will hold over 700hp or so. First things first and that is to pull the clutch out and have a look at it. I want to keep my money in the bank earning interest for as long as possible and if this clutch can get me through to next year then that will be good. I have other engine plans for then which will need a good clutch.

I dyno tuned a 600hp na 5L v8 in my early 20's when I worked in a dyno shop. I frequently saw 500 and 600hp go through 3 inches. We tried a 4 inch exhaust on the 600hp engine and they lost about 50 hp in the midrange and made more noise. That's all. I know that turbo cars and na cars have different requirements from their exhaust systems and I have no intention of debating this. I don't really care that much. You are right in saying that you should go all out when you are getting work done Harey. That's the reason I got a 6boost manifold instead of an ebay job and a genuine garrett instead of an ebay job. When I get an exhaust made I will make sure its what I want. I will be pulling the gearbox out tomorrow after work and cleaning the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch facings. Bastard better not slip after I put it back in. And I thought my gearbox removing days were over. I guess not. Anyway I'm going to bed. Early starts are great. Up again at 4am. Thank god its Friday tomorrow.

I can live without 3rd gear launches etc but it would be nice to be able to do that. I'd be happy if I could change from 2nd to 3rd without the clutch slipping. It holds about 16 psi without slipping. Any more and it will slip slightly. At 20psi it comes on boost and slips like crazy. It has only slipped twice. I didn't get off it quick enough the first time. The clutch is a hd organic clutch according to the receipt that I got when I bought the car. I don't think its worn, I'm pretty sure its just glazed. I'm going to pull the box out tomorrow after work and have a sus. If it is worn then I'll have to talk the missus into letting me buy a twin plate of some description.

Hey boys and girls, I have an r33 gtst with a gt3582r. When it comes on boost in 3rd the clutch slips. I'm pretty sure it is just glazed. How well would it grip again if I cleaned up the flywheel and pressure plate and clutch facings? I have done this many times before on lower powered cars and it works fine. How will it go on a car with more than 400 hp at the wheels? Nathan

I saw a spring at work today which looks like it would fit. The bloke said I can have it soon when he replaces it with a new one soon. It is very hard to compress by hand. I succeeded in compressing it about 3mm. I'm keen to try it. Just by the feel of it I'd say it is good for 20 psi or more by itself

Mate that is a sight better than what mine did the other night and ever since I put it down in 3rd. It slipped the clutch and smashed the limiter as soon as it came on boost in 3rd. Even driving from no boost to full boost it starts to slip. You must be stoked with your car now, I know I am with mine (apart from the clutch) My grin is just like yours

I have run 91,95,98 and some other crap with 98 to make it higher octane. At the time I had a stock turbo and a power fc. Basically with running 91 I had to take out about 6 degrees from memory so it wouldn't knock. It wasn't a hell of a lot slower but it was still fairly noticeable. Considering there is only a 5 dollar a tank difference between 91 and 98 when you fill up, you should use the good stuff. If you have a stock computer definitely use 98 or better.

I hear ya. It's good to have mates you can trust like that. I've only been in perth for ten months so I don't know many people here. On topic now, why don't you try putting some big washers under your 7 psi spring and seeing how much it raises the boost by. If your car isn't set up for the gate yet we can try it out on my car sometime.

On the skid pan wouldn't be as bad cos you got your eye on it and also they aren't on the road with the opportunity to see how fast it goes or something stupid. I loaned my skyline once and it came back with 7800 rpm on the hand controller and 170 kph. Plus the clutch stunk and I'm sure that's why it is slipping now. I loaned my commodore once as well and the guy got a speeding ticket and ripped the front bumper off on a kerb and blew a hole in the radiator which only happened at the time from revving the crap out of it. You say its just a car but for me it is months of work and saving. If someone really appreciates a car they can work their arse off and save their money and get their own like most people do. But hey that's just me

I was going to suggest that. Pretty much any spring that fits in there without falling over will do the trick anyway. And shimming them as already suggested will raise the pressure somewhat. Its all very easy.

Mine came with a 10 in the box and a 7 in the gate. Now it has both in the gate. Plus a few turns on the bleed valve as well I think Hanaldo only has a 7 psi spring. Lol at lending ya car. I sure as hell wouldn't. I only let the missus take it anywhere.

Hmmm where to get a spring??? Ebay? What about Kyle from 6boost? My wastegate has turbosmart and 6boost printed on it. He would know how to sort you out.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=cpyXkX7aeMo Here is a quick shaky vid. Watch out for frequent swearing. After you see the clutch slip in 3rd cut to near the end where I show under the bonnet quickly. 14psi @ 4050rpm and 20psi @ 4400rpm.

Drumroll.....................Bleed valve! And attach a friggin huge spring to the outside of the actuator for quicker spool.

You are right man. 7 plus 7 equals 14. You just add the spring pressures together pretty much. My gate came with a 7psi inner already installed and it also came with a 10 psi outer which I installed. Its quite hard to hold the cap on with one hand and put the bolt in with the other. Running straight out the turbo it hit 17 psi exactly. With the exhaust it ran 14 psi. I use a bleed valve for boost control and also my right foot.

I will be getting the exhaust replaced from the dump back next year. I'll get a cat before then tho. When I mentioned the clutch slipping it didn't just slip. It hit the limiter at 7600 as soon as it came on boost in 3rd. It's rooted now. I'll pull the box out and have a sus soon.

Hey man I think the boost in my car comes on about 300 rpm later than yours but then I don't have cams and I'm down 100cc in capacity. I checked the injector duty cycle after giving it some at 20 psi and they were at 56%. I'm using 900cc @ 3bar jecs injectors. I spoke to an engine builder here in Perth who has built rb's including a 7xxrwhp rb26 and he recommended the gt35r for a the rb30. It might be too small for the 3.4L but realistically I'd rather the turbo come on earlier and still be able to put out 500hp or so to the wheels. About the exhaust, I asked the exhaust bloke about making me a bigger exhaust for the power I will make and he said 3 inch will be fine just delete the cat. So yeah a big cat is on the list. Right next to a new clutch

The upload failed. I'll try again tomorrow afternoon.

So I just made a little vid of going up the road and then to the pizza shop. Saw 20 psi, popped of the boost gauge hose and slipped the clutch in 3rd So much for a hd clutch... The vid is a bit crap cos its dark and the camera isn't fixed. Anyway I'll upload it and it should be ready in half an hour

I think it should go pretty good with 3.4L tho. The torque off boost will be a lot nicer too. I forgot to mention before about my tune. The afr's are still spot on and there was a max of 14 knock at any time. I'll get comfortable with the new power and find my preferred boost level then put it on the dyno. Give it a few weeks tho.