Room42

It would make more of a difference in low rpm as this is where the fan has the highest ratio of drag vs rpm. This is a mod that I would try.

It does this because the gearbox is still spinning and the clutch grabs a bit and 'helps' the engine spin. Rondofj yours is definitely the aac. Pull it out, clean it and put it back in. I used clr clear. Adjust the screw so it reads the same rpm on your computer as your tacho. To the OP, it has been said in this thread already but generally the only thing that will cause a high idle is an vacuum leak. This includes; incorrect throttle cable adjustment, incorrect idle screw adjustment, perished/broken intake gaskets, broken manual boost controller, dirty/incorrectly adjusted aac, perished injector O rings, cracked hoses, rooted brake booster, etc. The list goes on. Anywhere air can get in you should check. Use some engine starting spray to help you find the hole.

Here is some advice that wont help you f**k all. Everyone is on a budget. I budgeted $15k on driveline for mine. If you aren't keen on spending a g on injectors then you will really hate spending the other 5 g needed to make your car go fast. Here's some advice that will help you. There is a seller on ebay called 1sickgt and they supply refurbished injectors. They have a better spray pattern than standard, a warranty, almost any size you desire and they are around the $500 mark to your door. They will refund you $60 if you send your old stuffed injectors in. Oh and they fit right in to your stock rail. To answer your question, I have no idea but google seems to work pretty good.

Not just generally. It is always greater. Radiators are designed to operate between 13 and 16 psi. Oil pressure should be 20 psi at idle and 10 psi more per 1000rpm after than.

Have you tried it? There is a huge difference between giving it some stick in a couple of gears to get up to a hundred and holding it flat through all 5 of them. Like I said if you took it over 6500rpm in 5th I can promise you it would jump at least 10 degrees. I wouldn't recommend trying it as it is very dangerous driving at that speed, however you wont know till you've tried it. My car is very stable with the coolant temp and wont move with flooring it to the speed limit or sitting in traffic but it did move when I topped it out.

You mustn't drive very hard then. I can promise you that if you went out to the sticks and took it over 6500 rpm in 5th that you would see it jump at least 10 degrees.

It's not a stupid question if you don't know the answer. The answer is black for its heat retarding properties. The opposite of this would be to chrome it which would raise temps significantly. I saw a ten degree celsius difference in operating temp on a 186hp (that's the engine name not the power) motor just by swapping a red rocker cover for a chrome one and vice versa.

You said it is a step backwards from a stock ecu. It isn't.

Technically they are my wifes sprinkles. I pinched them out the cupboard while she is at work. I'd better put them back before she gets home or we will al be in very big trouble. All the excuses in the dictionary wont help us then. She is a teacher as well so she could very well hand out detention and then we'd all be f**ked.

Oh well...Here is my extra special datalogit.

Luckily for me a bumper hating shrub made sure my r33 was undercover at home. Stupid trees with their life giving oxygen and front bar removing abilities.

Isn't there a Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups section on this site? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

I cant believe there is so much debate about what the guy meant. Is this a skyline forum or year 10 english? Anyone worth their salt knows that "extra special" means he wanted sprinkles on it. Nothing more. On topic again. Who elses datalogit has played up and why? How did you fix the problem? Maybe this thread could be useful...

I wouldn't say that. My mates gemmi put out 200 rwhp at only 12.5 psi. The engine is newly built and will be eventually be wound up to over 30 psi.

A bloke I know has LT12 on his ballistic gemini. I downloaded the software from the site to have a look at his tune and the software was substandard to say the least.

Quoted from the link: "SplitFire, Inc., has agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that economy, efficiency and improved performance claims for its spark plugs were false or unsubstantiated". In your second sentence you are implying that unless Splitfire are being deceptive again, Splitfire coils are actually "better". I've had no drama's with the oem coils so far. When I put on the gt35r I'll wind the boost up and see how well they handle it. Not that you should compare 16 year old coils to new ones but its worth a look I spose. If I had nothing better to do...which I do lol.

I bought some braided oil and water lines to suit a gt35r on rb25det from Kando Dynamics last week. They were only $80, arrived in record time and look and feel the part. Certainly not "cheap ebay crap" as some have suggested. I'm pleased already and I'll comment more once they are in use.

What is this, youtube? Just cos someone f**ks you over doesn't mean you should rip them off. Otherwise all the shit here applies to everyone who posted. Geez guys have a read of the forum guidelines. There aint no love in here...Some people aren't worth the time of day. Lets keep it like that. P.s the weather is shit.

Neither do I for that matter. But it seemed logical that if they got busted once with false advertising then they wouldn't do it again. But then again people do weird things over and over. I haven't got out the multimeter and tested them as I have the oem one's currently. There was a thread about this that I was reading today. It dates back to 2006 I think. I didn't read all of it, just some stuff about dwell and how it could be necessary to have more dwell for splitfires to get any benefit from them. Which implies that they are more durable but not "better". I'm only going on what I've read. Could be wrong. Get out your multimeter mate and measure the windings and let us know. If you can be bothered.

I read it and I'm happy to try and help out. From that big long paragraph it seems to me that the plugs wont be gapped properly.

Splitfire Japan would get fined for a breach of a consent order regarding false advertising if it wasn't the case. Splitfire started in America in 1991 and in 1997 they got barred from advertising for false claims about their spark plugs. It is advertised that Splitfire coils produce more output voltage than oem coils. Reference below. http://www.sf-j.co.j...lish/index.html http://www.ftc.gov/o...2/splitfir.shtm

Classic head gasket symptoms. You can get your radiator "bubbles" analyzed for about $25 to see if its leaking exhaust gas into it. Then you know for sure.

Car ramps are pretty cheap these days. Reverse it up on a set and get out the torch if necessary. Nothing like lying on the ground under your car. I've benchpressed many a box in. Fun

Bubba there are 2 types of bloke on this site. Those that have a skyline and those that do not. I think we have heard from several blokes in this thread that do not. You get that consult cable up and working yet?

Sounds obvious but get under the car and look for the dented parts. Then you can see what was affected. Then you can examine the affected parts and find the hole/crack/bent pipe/culprit.