s213b

Can I revive this - is the car still happy on the WMI? cheers

Has anyone done a WMI on an rb that’s already on e85? are there any benefits do you think? that’s where I’m currently at… e85 + 300psi pump fine mist on the cooler + considering a WMI (1 nozzle pre turbo, one nozzle about 18 inches from the throttle body)

Has anyone here running WMI had any problems with their setups since the last post here? I’m looking at a setup for my next build, I’m thinking aquarist but they seem hard to find online. cheers

Well you can’t nistune every skyline ecu as we know. 10 years ago, I had a mines ecu and a copy of everything it was tuned for, which matched my car perfectly, and easy access to 100ron fuel, and still people said don’t use it. Didn’t make sense to me. Still doesn’t. If you use the wrong fuel for your tune you’ll blow your motor, that’s always been a fact. but yes correct, I wouldn’t chase one now, but if the circumstances were fitting I don’t see why they’re the paperweight everyone claims them to be.

We have 100 octane fuel here in Adelaide (united, portrush rd) I believe it’s 98 & e85 blended. I remember using it profusely in my early turbo days. If someone had 100 ron fuel, would this make the mines ecus a possible choice? I’ve always wondered, cheers

Hi all, Chasing a good working condition FULL ac setup (lines, condenser, bracket, bolts, compressor, evaporator assembly etc), or at the very least a working compressor on its own. Suit rb20 r32 only. Located in adelaide but happy to pay post. WORKING COMPRESSORS ONLY pls!

Have done a fair bit of reading on here but still need some help. Does anyone know if 18x9.5+30 will sit on a 32 gtst? Not too low, guards rolled, will run 235's.

Just put a freshly built stagea rb25det into my r32 gts4. I USED THE DIFF FROM MY RB20 - to match my rear diff. Drove it around with no issues for a few weeks. Front torque gauge acting as it should etc. However had issues with car being stuck in rwd from early on but this was rectified. Car then had head issues (similar to the idiot who tuned it) and my fresh motor then needed a head rebuilt after 350k's. Motor stayed in the car, head came off. Installed a genuine greddy intake manifold and 10:1 Comp instead of the 8.5:1 it had originally. After the head rebuild the car runs awesome, however my altessa system comes off after 2-3 minutes of driving (4wd light ON) and it feels like one of the diffs (assuming front) is binding up bad. The torque gauge saw 50% when just driving up a driveway. Diff binds even when pushing the car with keys out. Anyone had diff binding issues on a 32 or know what my issue could be? Cheers

Didn't think so Cheers

Does anyone know if Front: 18 x 9.5 +35 Rear: 18 x 9.5 +20 Will fit on r32 gtst (gts4) with rolling no flailing, not super low, std camber. It's a 32 gts4 so I need to run same size and width. Cheers

Spoke to my builder, everything was sonic bathed before it went back in. I have reason to believe there is more too the issue... There are fingers being pointed, and not in the builders direction. All I'm going to say at the moment, will keep everyone posted

Aren't new cams 'soft' and require temp and oil to harden up & bed in? Having a cam bucket slap against brand new cams couldn't be good. After spending almost 20k on engine parts, engine labour, brand new turbo, brand new fuel system, efi system and ignition system + a tune, you'd expect clockwork precision

it's not the injectors It does it worse when cold, accel or decel it does it. It's a loud (audible from 20m's away over exhaust sound with bonnet shut) on idle does about 2 ticks per second. I can head my injectors (sound like a 72 tooth ratchet) much more frequent and quiet. I'm convinced this is a fked lifter. Going back to engine builder today so he can have a listen. I just hope nothing's damaged my brand new tomei cams

My injectors do tick, but it's not that either. It's a very loud, very crisp 'tick'. Going back to engine builder tomorrow, my tuner keeps telling me to basically not worry about it, after 1000k's it'll 'bed in?' Sounds dodgy to me, a lifter should bed in as soon as its got oil pressure 10 seconds after first start up. On another note car made 270kw on run in tune at 15 psi with a spike to 17-18. 681nm too. Can't wait to sort this problem and get the final tune done with 23-24psi

Nah it's not piston slap, it does it regardless of temperature or revs. Speeds up with revs. Might try turning my window switch vct off and see if it still does it.

I've got a fresh built forged 25 in my 32. Standard head expect for super tec valve springs and tomei 264 cams WITH vct operated via a window switch. The car has a very noticeable 'tick' to it, it's very audible at idle. My tuner told me it was the window switch which seemed strange? Could it be a lifter? The tuner also noticed it was super noisy on first start but slowly quietened once it started to bed in.

Rb20 is basically complete minus coil packs and turbo/ exh manifold

Can't seem to find it on their website? And no I don't have the std airbox, maybe a propper bumper duct would be a better idea?

Sorry to dig up an ancient thread, but Silk Road and nengun don't sell these anymore. Does anyone know where I can get one?

Like this

Does anyone know where to get those headlight intakes that still retain the Parker light and headlight? I know Silk Road and nengun used to sell them but I think their discontinued now. Surely someone else has to be making them? Cheers

*edit, just saw you said 6 haha My car is only has 4 wheels though so ill only need 4

Sorry - Adelaide Preferably after r34 gtt r33gtr r32gtr / stag

Oh good. Will be good to see how it goes on the dyno

Jeez.... Glad I spent $700 on tomei 256 poncams....