proengines

Guys, I have a change of time. I was talking to Peter at Autotech and he is worried that saturday morning will be too busy in Fyshwick, especially the week before Christmas and there will be nowhere for anyone to park so everything will be starting at around 12. Sorry to anyone that this puts out, if you are worried about it being too hot to run your car have a chat to Peter or Ed on Saturday. They is very conservative and wont do anything they feel is dangerous to your car. If you are worried about yourself overheating remember there will be plenty of cold beer and coke, as well as some sausages etc. Sorry for the late notice but we don't want to see anyones car damaged because there isn't anywhere safe to park or there's too much traffic flying past the driveway. Cheers, Greg.

We've started to use the blue gates belt. They're the same price as a genuine nissan and supposed to be stronger. Saying that, I haven't seen a genuine belt have a problem.

Use the settings that ARP supply, along with the thread lube they supply.

I really think you should have some type of neon lighting on each bottle. Are you sure that the bottles weren't leaking a little when you decided to mount them there? Honestly, stick them in the boot and mount the harnesses properly, visual appeal kind of goes out the window if you have an accident and end up hanging out the front window with a nitrous bottle lodged in the back of your head.

I did an engine not long ago with HKS pistons. They were used but not really worn. At the nominal bore size they ran under .0025" clearance. If you bore and hone your block to the nominal size you should find that you have just over .002" clearance. Pistons are usually made with the clearance built in to them, meaning that the pistons will be whatever the clearance is smaller than the nominal size. At 87mm (3.4252") the piston should measure 3.4232" +0/-.0003-4" about .250"-.300" from the bottom of the skirt. Remember that the skirts are tapered slightly, smaller at the top of the skirt. Any extra clearance you give the piston will increase your ring gap by a factor of Pi, meaning that for every .001" extra size on the bore you will have .0031" extra ring gap (using Pi x diameter).

Adam, all the gaskets for the externals on the engine come with the kit, manifolds, copper washers for oil lines etc.. you wont need to buy anything extra.

Nick, have a look at this one, it's the same as we used on Nathans and cheap as chips. eBay manifold.

Thanks guys, I thought it was worthwhile making the collars after seeing the price of the Japanese ones, I fitted one a while back and couldn't believe the price for what they are. We have 3 engines here at the moment that need one which pretty much offset the setup costs to make them. They are being made in batches of 10 so we should always have a few spares around. Nick, I was talking to Ed about your engine, it should be a good test of what sort of power you can make using the GTR rods. It will be very interesting to see. I should have the 3 litre setup done by the time you eventually break yours! Dave, you couldn't fit this particular collar while the crank is still in the engine, theres a bit of machining to be done first which needs to be pretty accurate. Most engine shops could fit it once the crank is out, the machining is probably better done in a crank grinder/cylindrical grinder to get it spot on concentric to the centreline of the crank so that both drive flats contact perfectly with the inner gear of the pump I give the collar .002" interference with the snout of the crank which provides the drive, the grub screws are only there as a bit of added insurance. I dont know a lot of engine shops in QLD, I know Bryant Engineering do some very good work, that's not saying that other shops dont though. I was thinking of making up a spline drive setup similar to what Toyota use on their engines but it would have meant also making a new inner pump gear and as there are so many different pumps available it wouldn't have been worth it. one day in the future maybe.

To fit the drive collar you need to machine the area of the oil pump drive and seal area down to 35mm and the collar is pressed on and then grub screwed through the oil pump drive flats. I think some people weld up the front of the crank and machine it back but I havent seen one that's done. I prefer the collar idea. We have them CNC machined from 4340 chrome moly so they wear well, it's a very tough steel. I've attached some photos of what's involved.

BMW's group A cars back in the 80's were tuned using the same method, it worked well for them.

Any type of car is welcome to come along. We might even have a couple of decent V8's and a very interesting supra.

It's a 2wd dyno, come along for the BBQ anyway!

There is a change of time to Saturday @ 12pm, see my later post for more details. Hi Guys, Autotech Services, Pro Engines and Integra Automotive are putting on a Christmas BBQ and dyno day on Saturday December 17 at Autotech Services, 11 Collie St Fyshwick. The dyno part will be in the morning while it's still cool followed by a BBQ and a few drinks. The cost will be $40 per car or a small donation per person. We are planning on donating money raised to Wildcare, a registered charity that rescues, rehabilitates and releases injured and orphaned Australian native animals. We will provide a BBQ lunch and a few drinks (BYO hard stuff). Anyone who's interested please post up here or give me a call on 62995211 so we can get an idea of numbers. Cheers, Greg. List of who's coming along: Dyno Runs: Stirlo-GTR Geordie Race_snooze Stevie Leech Rincewind (maybe) Xedos (Syndicate Eunos) Dewey (Syndicate) Paul (Corvette) Goran Daniel & Daryll (ESP) (not the Supra though because of throttle problems...)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...92589&hl=collar that should do it.

I used a set of CP pistons in a 2JZ last week and the rings were exactly the same as what Wiseco supply with theirs, right down to the markings for the top side of the rings. My customer had them sent from someone in the US, not sure who though. I wouldn't use any ring set that doesnt have a steel top ring, a cast ring breaks too easily with a little detonation. The thinner the rings the better, we usually use Wiseco's with a 1mm, 1.2mm, 2.8mm set and have never had a drama with them. Personally I think they are every bit as good as a CP in design and material plus they come with a skirt coating now for around $1200ish including rings.

They are definately steel, not cast iron.

I have one here at the moment that is looking pretty close to letting go. I have some photos if you're interested. I also have some photos of the process of fitting a crank collar, I did one on an RB30 crank not long ago. It's a good couple of hours work to do but comes up really well. It does add up a bit though, the cost of the collar plus around $200 labour to fit it. I would definately run the bigger drive, the early R32 one doesn't engage a lot of the pump gear.

It's not a terribly easy thing to flowbench test as it's impossible to accurately reproduce the conditions inside the plenum as they would be with the engine running. Pulsing and reversion will make a difference to the way the air is distributed. You can test the percentage differences between the head with a bellmouth and the head with a plenum attached for each cylinder and gain some results from that. The best way to test would be with an exhaust temp gauge on each manifold runner just out of the exhaust port. If you know that all the injectors flow the same and the rear cylinder runs hotter than the rest then you know that that cylinder is getting more air than the others. Most decent computers let you trim each injector to compensate which can bandaid the problem.

I'll take it for $200ish if you're interested. Give me a call on 02 62995211.

I'm in the early stages of setting up a deal to have some heads CNC ported. These heads will be done on a 5 axis CNC machine and flow figures will be guaranteed to be the same for every port. It's a pretty costly exercise to set up for and I'm wondering if people would be willing to pay to have it done. The porting should cost between $800-$1100 per head, cheaper if it was a batch being done. The port design will be hand ported and then flow tested until it is spot on and then digitised. It will be a few months before anything will be ready but I just want to know what sort of interest there is out there.

$600? no wonder I'm loaded.. Usually it's $200ish to strip and clean an engine, you must have sounded rich or something.. If you're going to keep the car do it once and do it properly if you can afford it, that way you have a solid base for any other mods you want to make in the future.

Most of the aftermarket rods around will cope with what you want. Argo are a nice rod, a little heavier than others, PAR rods are similar, maybe a little more modern profile. A lot of US Supra guys are running crower rods at over 1000hp. Carrillo are probably the ultimate rod but you will pay for them. I'm fairly sure you can get eagles now for RB30's, I'd have no problem using them either. A lot depends on how much you want to spend, there are other companies that will make them, Pankl make a nice rod but the $ is up there, Pauter make a strange looking + beam rod that many people have used with a lot of success. It all really depends on your budget, the more you spend, the better rod you will get.

Take a look on the www.turbomustangs.com forum, they are very highly regarded by a lot of the users.

I'll take the crank if it's a 33 and in good condition. How soon can you send it? Give me a call on 02 62995211 when you get a chance.

I'd be interested in seeing some before and after dyno runs if it's possible?