RBVS

ive got Autronic sm2 and a 044 pump. I have 320rwhp at 1 bar so id say I would have less power than a gt30 with manifold.

i got sard 550cc when i upgraded my turbo. still get the same 400k to a 55lt tank with a bit of hard driving as i did with the stock injectors. say 1/5 of the distance reving out gears. If i drive hard a hole tank im looking at 300-270k. they cost me $100 to get fitted and sealed no probs. I personaly have had no probs with them, i got them because they were the cheapest aftermarket bolt ins i could fined at the time, $900 with collars.

all my coil packs glow blue when you look down the gaps around them. but my car doesnt miss???? has anyone ealse got there coil cover off. have a look at night and tell me if you can see a flickering glow. my car seems to be a little down on power when compared to other cars with the same set up.

i was looking at pricing an alot of place's are like $1000 then checked nengun and they are $580 deliverd... wow there killing it.

they looked like volvo's and sarb's to me, didnt see the falcon or commodore. proberly get the same resualt though.

From what i read lagwagon is commenting on the cars you tune and use in your arguments. So you call him cheap? -rob77 had stock pistons thats why it blew. nar sorry there are may people running stock pistons that make big hp but they dont push the the stock injectors. i belive magic 1s 414rwhp i saw it run on the dyno dynamics, but i can also see how it can be done. Cams would help a heap because there increasing power with out heat so the sock injectors dont need to have such a good spray pattern to get a cool clean combustion.( Which happens with large fuel reg presure) forged pisstons again are up for a bit more punishment then the stock. An efficent turbo at a bar. and a tune that would sacrifice power down low for more up top will give you a dyno queen car that pulls some nice graphs but embarrassing track time for the power. i dont mean to take anthing away from the car its nice just set up differnt to the way others like it each to their own, id love to own it. As you said steve he was setting it up for the dyno comp, he wanted 500rwhp and you got it.

any chance of a pic of the manifold cheers.

im no expert but im pritty shore it wouldnt. ive had my cam gears off when i took the head off my car and they bolt to the cam completly differnt from ex to intake. i dont know if the profile of a 256 ex cam is differnt to a 256 inlet.

did you get a good gain from using the hks with the stock inlet? yea like you said wouldnt fit because of the two differnt cam gear conections. the tomie pon cam set up for a series 1 rb25 is 256 inlet 256 ex and people also get good resaults with that set up so i would try the 256 inlet with what ya got and if ya not happy sell the ex cam (to me) and get your 264.

i had a run with one and it was dead even. at the time i had run a 13.5 @ 105mph.

wow that is good. there's always been one area were a holden commodore is superior, gas struts to hold the bonet up, were nissain still use the old metal rod trick.lol (thats all i got on ya lol)

relocate the battery to the boot so theres more weight over rear wheels. your not losing the weight but at lest it's more useful their. prob no point in a gtr being 4wd.

i used to have crap boost control with it. was using a gtr solenoid then tryed the small autronic solenoid still wasnt realy happy. in the manual your ment to have a restrictor in the line then a T peace and the solenoid bleeds air out from the T. manifold===//====T====actulator .............restrictor l l ..........................#solenoid i then got my hands on a apexi solenoid which sits in line manifold=====#=====actulator this works a treat, have great control with current set up. having all the boost tune files and offset is good but theres a bit of messing around to get it to switch between to boost curves so you can just use a switch and not go on the laptop. also got the option of setting boost to throttle position its good when you can work though it all but prob over kill for your average street car.

not sure if the e-boost has it but with my boost control which is run buy autronic sm2. there is a section called BOOST OFFSET. what you do is log boost to rpm like you have and then add or take away psi at what revs you need to. so you have a graph with rpm values like this 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000 75000 0psi 0psi opsi 0psi 0psi 1psi 1psi 2psi 3psi 4psi 4psi autronic does it with kpa but if the e-boost has this then you should be able to tune it out.

yea i been dreaming about importing series 6-7 exracer rx7. i think you need a ANDRA licences but you could drive it on the road, (in wa) anyway with $12 permit's they only last 48hours so just pick one up every friday arvo and kill everyone on crusies on the weekends. also dont need to have number plates. prob wouldnt happen but its my dream.

sorry thought you were deciding on pressure plate weight to go with your 5 puck.

i had the stock pressure plate on my 5 puck and it was good for about a 5 weeks until it sliped then it got bad real quick. as you may know if you slip a puck they burn up real quick. I had 270rwhp. good thing is pucks are real cheap to rebuild $8 a button. I installed a 2500 which i thought would be real heavy but it's not at all. ive got 318rwhp now and it hasnt sliped even when i abuse it of the line. I wouldnt worry about a 2500 being to heavy, because people that i have spoken to say its hard to notic the difference to stock when used with a fullface organic or 9 puck.

how do you know its boost control that is making the power surge, Is the boost fluctuating up to 17psi? if so at what revs, whats happening. need to know more than power is surging. I would firstly test all the mencanical aspects of the boost control system first. this being the actulators and waste gates. just run a hose from the plenum to the actulators with out anything T'd into it. this will give the lowest boost posible but there will be nothing to cause a surge with fluctuating boost levels. if the power is on-off when run like that then its not the hks evc.

lol sorry you posted befor me so ive said the same things. your quick. heres that link to the other thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=boost

i interpreted it as the waste gate being disconected and instead of flapping around its just sucured in the fully open position buy some wire. If thats right and in doing that its running 12psi plus how could it be a bent aculator rod, all the controling of boost is eliminated form the situation and it just leaves us with the way the gass exits.(flow) as iv said i have had hands on with this situation. Ive had my waste gate flapping and made 14psi at 7000rpm. So i did what i sudjested above and boost droped to 10psi. also done with a mates car. ill try and fined the other thread were someone ealse also has done it. like i said it is a bit hard core but i can only offer my advise. most times just fixed with a proven dump pipe like a hks twin which offers better flow for the waste gate than a stock dump conected to a 3'' system.

I think the greedy controler has a dial that has ''sharp to soft'' turn it fully to sharp will bring on boost quicker but it might spike above your boost set level when it come on. work your way back to soft until that stop's happening if it happens.

gapping down from factory 1.1 to .8 does the trick when increasing boost. good to see you got the problem fix anyways. cheers.

ok we can all stop talking about the controling system , he has said more than once that he had the waste gate wired fully open. This is not that un common after fit ment of a larger exhaust system. the turbo becomes more efficient (free flowing) increasing boost in the top end. ways to combat this is to.. modify the dump in a way to incrase the flow of the waste gate gas, at the moment it simply cant divert enough pressure from going though the turbo wheel to get your desired boost level. If that has been done or is done to the best you can the next step is a bit more hard core but i have done it and got resaults and so have others that i told. (may fined on a search) this is to drop the exhaust of the back of the turbo to acess the gate. you will see that the the gate over laps the waste hole buy about 3 to 4mm. with a die grinder or round file would be safer increase the diameter of the hole buy 1 to 2 mm but make shore the gate will still easly cover the hole. also pay attention to the angle the hole is in relation to exhaust flow.(90 degrees) taking a bit of the inside edge out will make it flow better also. 1mm in diameter will make a big differance. See the thing is the system all works well in the stock set up but once you change one thing it has an effect on another so you have to even the ratio back.

most common thing is to gap down your spark plugs if its missing (poping) up top. you prob done that but just thought id say.

and another question guy's what size turbos are you putting on these things. my turbo has a .6 ar compresser housing and to get it to fit onto the stock manifold i had to cut the heat sheld and angle grind the thrid runner to get it to fit. (as u can kind of see in my avtar) If these china manifolds give more room with the design would be great.