negoshi8or

and check here http://www.housinghouse.com/goods.php?id=523 to get an idea of the colour

for sale on gumtree http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-for-Sa...QQAdIdZ76859879 for $125! yay

So you wouldnt want to post to perth?

pm sent about your volk old style gtc's

the search button is your friend! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...;hl=wing+mirror

Try the CAS (Cam Angle Sensor) - it is the black or silver thing bolted to the front of the timing belt cover. Mine was on it's way out and made a knocking sound that went away when you revved the engine. Did the engine idle rough (almost like not firing on all cylinders) when it made this knocking noise? With the car idling and the bonnet open, put a long screwdriver on the outside of the cas and then put your ear to the other end. If you hear a chunky or knocking sound, and not a smooth, even sound - then it could be this. hope this helps.

I had the same problem - open up the relay box and check the solder joints on the solenoids (chunky looking things wrapped in copper wire) On mine, the solder joints on the circuit board were cracked - so small you could almost not see them. I re-soldered and problem was fixed. search the forum for this repair. The fact that you said it works when it wants to tells me it is the realy box. good luck

F.Y.I forum people - yes it does. Bought a 2nd hand one off a forum member and bolts. Will polish the metal to bling it up

Hi people, My CAS has finally gone, so can anyone advise me if a CAS from a 93 S1 RB25DET will fit my 93 S1 RB25DE na? Thanks for your help!

add this and it wont be so lean... maybe more mean... ;-) http://www.rodshop.com.au/superchargerb30.htm

Well of course the more you do yourself the less you get ripped - kinda obvious that one FYI - it was not just a radiator flush - the top tank was removed and the galleries were physically cleaned out - so no I wasn't telling ppl to pay for a flush they can do themselves. I flushed the system and that didnt cure the problem - hence off to NatRad. So if a cooling system flush doesnt cure you problems, more action is required.

Ummm... how is your post useful? Unless you can tell members where to get a new top tank for free, a new top tank seal for free, and a pressure test for free... Why bother posting???

Hi members, Spend a little money on your radiator to keep it in good running order - you will be glad you did! My car has recently been experiencing overheating issues. I had just replaced the water pump and thermostat... I got the radiator cleaned and serviced by NatRad - cost around $200 inc a pressure test, new top tank and O-ring seal. (The normal price is about $100 if you don’t need a new tank) The work involved removing the top tank and cleaning out the water galleries. When you took off the radiator cap you could see some of the gunk causing the blockage - the radiator was 80% blocked!! In my case the dude at the NatRad store (Perth - Morley) pointed out the top tank inlet was cracked - and he kept it to show me. Any disturbance of the cooling system (heater core replacement, thermostat, water pump) will cause gunk to move in the cooling system and clog your radiator - think of the "gasket goo" that gets used to when replacing these components - if too much is used there is a good chance some of it will become mobile and clog the system. Now that most skylines are ten + years in age, it’s a good idea to take the time to get it properly cleaned, besides just giving your cooling system a flush annually. It will keep your car running cooler and be more reliable. Why not get a new radiator cap too? You can get standard 0.9 bar colour anodized ones from Repco for $12. Mine's red ;-) And thanks to NatRad for your excellent quality of service.

hey thanks grigor! I Must be stupid... didn't search for R32 stuff.... lol

Number 1 - Check that all your hoses are tight and are not cracked. Pressure builds when the system gets warm. The leak may be closed when cold but when your engine warms the cracks or loose hoses can open up and leak. Hoses should NOT be "scrunchy" when you squeeze them. - also check your radiator for coolant stains - on the top and bottom tanks and on the core itself. Number 2 - How many kms has your car done? If more than 100,000 and you haven't fitted a new water pump - Time to do so. The seals in it wear out and leak. Number 3 - How full is the radiator over flow bottle? Check if this level is between min and max. If the bottle is full then there is a chance your car is overheating and the water is coming out through there.

Wow this post is so old it is smelly!! lol... I have just experienced the same issue. T he bearing on the air con compressor pulley has gone... making a horrible grinding/screeching sound. It looks like you can take it off. Anyone have experience with this before?

Yep your heater core has gone... this happens when the water stagnates in the core and rusts it. Do a search in the forum for "heater core replacement". A second hand one will cost between $100 - $150 and will involve a lot of work on your part. Most workshops quote around $1000 to change as it is a big job. Good luck

Check all three belt tensions first - make sure they are not loose. I suspect the sound is coming from the bearings on the air con compressor pully - the one on the compressor - not the tensioner pulley. I had a noise I couldn't identify - I just got a new water pump fitted so it wasnt the issue. So I took off the power steering pump belt and the noise was still there. Then I took of the aircon belt and presto - the noise was gone!! I rotated the pulley on the air con compressor by hand and it was extremely noisey - you could feel the "roughness" when rotating the pully. Try it yourself and see. The CAS noise sounds like a rerw rew rew rew rew. The air con pulley noise is more like a metal squealing or squeaking - and is constant. Not pulsing like the rerw rerw rerw of the CAS

Hey SAU peeps, My CAS is on its way out - noisy bearings. Does anyone know who recons them? Or if there is a good condition 2nd hand for sale? Automotive Components Australia does recons I believe, and are interstate. Would prefer WA... Thanks for your help.

Hey SAU peeps, With my R33 getting it's 100k service - I changed the plugs myself to save some cash and learn something new. BIG THANKS to members who posted tutorials for changing plugs - they were a great help. Pulling the plugs out on the RB25DE they were some American brand... in a Jap car? (go figure...) Anyway the plugs were in good condition - not covered in soot or oily. So the engine is running well. After reading the forums I chose to install some NGK iridium’s (they were matched to the engine so no I didn’t stuff it up) And after installing I found many problems with rough idle and acceleration - you could call it a gentle misfire or a "popping" sensation if you get my meaning. On my mechanics advice I changed them to Nissan platinum’s and the misfire was almost gone - none under acceleration - just on idle - so infrequent that you almost cant notice it - but I am anal, so I did ;-) lol... It turns out that one of the coil packs is on its way out - or beginning too. Replacements are coming soonest. At the end of the day - using iridium plugs enhanced the problem of the coil packs. Using factory recommended platinum’s almost cured the problem. So my experience is to stick with platinums.

Hey SAU peeps, My CAS is on its way out - noisy bearings. Does anyone know who recons them in WA? Or if there is a good condition 2nd hand for sale? Automotive Components Australia does recons I believe, and are interstate. Would prefer WA... Thanks for your help.

eBay - but check if you are buying CopyWrited material. A company - JPNZ - sells translated Japanese car manuals.

Open up this box - you can do it with a flat screwdriver or two. In the box IS THE PROBLEM. There are some solenoids in the box that control the auto up/down. The solenoids are large and heavy, and so the constant opening and closing of the doors has "shocked" the PCD (circuit board) so that the solder joints for the solenoids have cracked. Open it up and you will see some hairline cracks - they maybe almost impossible to see. re solder these cracked joints and your problems will be solved.

Dude takes 30 minutes to do. Instead of using glue to hold the electrical contact in place - melt a plastic fork (the white ones) and push the plastic in with your finger. It goes in no time and then you just need to put it back on. Fixing the retract will stop wing mirror scrapes. Up to you.