fastjetjockey

May be completely unrelated. May be a lil bit related... I had a camry once. It had a dodgy voltage regulator in the alternator. This caused the alternator to slowly deny charge to the car. The battery light was always on (thought it wa faulty, lol). This then lead to a loss of power on the highway... spluttering... and finally, a stuck car. Battery was dead. as it wasn't charged. But since you didn't mention a battery light, or anything of the sort. I'll assume it's not that. But have you ran a multi over your car yet? Just for kicks?

Those sticky panels are one bane of the Series 1 R34. Mine has it, and it does shit me. Not enough to paint it though. lol

I'm coming up on my 2nd oil change on my stockish 34. I've used Royal Purple in all changes, in all cars prior. But I would like to give Gulf Western Syn X 6000 or Motul 8100 X-Cess a go. Cheapest I've found for what you are interested in are... Royal Purple HPS: $70/5 quarts (4.73L) from performanceclub.com Motul 8100 X-Cess: $75.99/5L from justjap.co EDIT: Also, just stumbled across this; If you're a member of RACQ, you get 20% off prices store-wide in Repco until the end of February. So go get some stuff. Or get your mum to. lol

Yeah I consulted the GW website, and they've got Autobarn as my local retail stockist. But Autobarn don't carry the Syn X 6000, and 3000 is semi-synth. I guess I'll wait and nab some on the net. Just that my mate called me today and we were gonna have a man-date servicing our cars this weekend.

Anyone know of any local providers besides Autobarn in Brisbane for Gulf Western? I want to replace my Royal Purple with Syn X 6000 or S6000, just to give it a go. Not really down for paying >$100 every time I drop.

The lubrication of the ball joint that the mirror pivots on is a piece of cake. You just tilt the mirror up, then get your fingers under and behind it and pull. It will pop out at the bottom, then there's two retainers that you just slide the mirror up and out of. The rest is just a few screws that hold the assembly to the joint and you can get in there easy with some fresh grease. You're not actually opening anything watertight in this procedure, you're not fooling with any electrics, and I'd call it very safe to do. But of course, I'd advise you to adhere to the old adage - "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." As I said. The thing that probably boned me was the opening of the completely seprate unit that controls the swinging of the mirrors. That thing was sealed with clear gum, and nice and watertight, full of clean white grease. Dunno why I opened it.

Didn't know about this. It seems way more fitting.

Inifity will be launching in Australia this year, which pegs the possibility to see the Altima as a possible platform for their V8SC debut. It's good to see something new being thrown into the series, for it's a good race. But you're kidding yourself if you think that it's going to bare any semblance to what we experienced in 92. The platforms under the skins will be identical, and the die-hard bogans are still up in arms.

I pulled my passenger side one apart in my 34 (which was working fine, apart from some really jerky movement and it wouldn't automatically stop when it was put out). I contact-cleaned all the plugs, opened the motor housing for the folding mirror, re-greased the ball joint, but I couldn't find what the problems was. I was looking for some kinda ring where the mirror mounts the door mount, to let it know when it's fully extended (like the 33's). Didn't exist, and now I broke it. It's not folding out or in. Mirror adjustment still works fine though. Actually, better a than fine with that fresh grease. Not game to open my drivers' side one and lube that now. :S

RICHIE, NOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! How can you be an awesome dad without an awesome car?! I'm coming over tomorrow to knock some sense into you....

I did read from an indirect source on lucas forums that the working date for Australian release was March the 1st. See what happens though, right? I'ma wait will then anyway...

So I scored the opportunity to head over to Japan to shoot a film clip for a band. For 5 days I'll be shooting in Tokyo, based in Shibuya, then we travel to Kobe for 2 days. Work won't be too hard, and will incorporate a lot of sightseeing as we're going after all those cliché shots that people go to Tokyo to do. In Kobe I'm just along for the ride. But after the band and the rest of production fly out of Osaka on the 31st of Oct, I have a 7-day rail pass, some new shoes, my DSLR, a Lonely Planet: Japan publication and a whole lotta spare time and money. I have no flight booked to get home as yet, and was just gonna wing it for a week. I have an old high school friend that lives in Maebashi with her Japanese husband, daughter and another one on the way (R34 4-door family car btw). They're the only people I know that I'd like to catch up with. I've been to Japan once before, 10 years ago. I studied the language in school for 6 years. Today I can still speak and read enough to get me by, totally rusty though! >.< I'm hoping that first week of pre-planned work will aid me in transitioning into the culture so I have a smooth and relaxed second week. I'm considering hiring a sim card when I get into Narita for my 4S. Roaming rates are stupid. I want to have mobile data to help me out while I'm over there. Anyhow, I thought I'd come on here to tell you guys, and to try and gather some ideas of what to do over there! I'd love to include some cars and motorsport in somewhere; *coughhireaGTRforadaycough* I really want to see upgarage and see if I can smuggle a whole store home. I'd also like to stay in a nice Ryokan. Some good recommendations in my book. I stayed in one way back. Cannot remember where though. It was totally fun though. I'd consider staying in a minshuku also. I did a 3-day home stay when I was over there and it was soool cool! Amazing lovely family. Unfortunately I dropped out of contact wih them. Okay, I know this is a dead forum, but let the ideas flow! Dates again... Shooting: Oct 24th -> Oct 31st in Tokyo/Kobe Holiday: 1st November onwards. Only have a 7 day rail pass (unspecified dates)....

Could be a stuck piston, or your rotor is not running true. As was mentioned, check to see if one side is hotter. Or grab your old pads and check to see if they wore evenly. If not then your rotor is running off centre and needs to be remachined or reseated.

Just got home from work and saw the footage. Had to scoop my jaw off the desk and I had shivers seeing it all unfold.

Vtip = πdn Where d is the diameter in metres, and n is the angular velocity (RPM). =3.14 * 1.63 * (5000 * 1.18) =30212.69m/min =1812.76km/h 1812.76km/h at the tip on a 1.63m prop at 5000 engine RPM's through a 1.18x gearbox in a standard atmosphere. You sure about those figures?? When a prop is operated so it's tip exceeds mach ~0.88 (934km/h), it's efficiency starts to go downhill due to the loss of laminar airflow over the aerofoil; shockwaves that interrupt the thrust being generated. Back to the drawing board for you Hanaldo! lol Just for shits'n, I took the liberty of calculating the same prop's tip speed, but at 200000RPM..... Over Mach 49. :3

Yeee Boiiii!!!

Well Nathan, we're all walking the modified car path. But not all of us are as far ahead as you. The OP could have a highflowed turbo, so he's on the right track.

Bulletproof vests? They're made from Kevlar, which is an aramid synthetic fibre. Stops bullets. Lexan? Another polycarb resin thermoplastic. Used as aircraft canopies, space suit visors and.... bulletproof windows. Tweeters? That's right, fully sick speakers capable of up to 65,000 Hz in response can be partially made from... you guessed it. Plastic. Polyethylene terephthelate to be precise. And to put that frequency into perspective, it's 3,900,000 RPM (or more correctly, Oscilliations Per Minute). It's also the same stuff that your coke bottles are made of; PET. Annealed 6061-O Aircraft Grade Aluminium has a maximum tensile strength of 125 MPa. While polyamide-amide has a maximum tensile strength of 152 MPa. In the late 1980's Ford Motor Co. went on to build a plastic engine that produced 318BHP at 11,000RPM and redlined at ~14,000RPM. It only weighed 69kg's, as opposed to it's all-iron original of 188kg's. The only metal parts in the engine were metal cylinder sleeves, metal combustion chamber tops, metal piston crowns, bearings, valves and seats, and a stock 2.3L Pinto crankshaft. Nearly everything else in the engine, including the block, rods and piston skirts were made of Torlon thermoplastics - a polyamide-amide. Although that engine never went into a vehicle, Cosworth built a plastic engine based on the Cosworth BDA that weighed 78kg's. Plastic parts included the engine block, cam cover, air intake trumpets, intake valve stems, piston skirts and wrist pins, connecting rods, oil scraper piston rings, tappets, valve spring retainers and timing gears. The T616 HU04 car raced for two season, and finished with a best position of 3rd in class at the 1985 Road America 500. Twin Turbo 3rd-Gen RX-7's had an abradeable lining on the compressor wheel to aid in creating a perfect seal to maintain compressor efficiency after thermal and centrifugal expansion. Jet engines also use the same technology. There are countless instances in the world around us where plastics are doing some amazing things. Especially when you consider what we had 40 years ago. Plastics can be engineered to make use of the covalent bond between every single molecule, and as a general rule, covalent bonds are much stronger than metallic bonding. There are plastics that offer strength comparable to alloys while offering characteristics such as self lubrication, wear resistance, reduced weight and chemical resistance, which metals cannot offer. So take all this on board, and try to accept the fact that all my fun comes from a little nylon compressor wheel boosting me around...

I'd take a chance with it then mate, if it's stamped and the diametres are bigger than factory. Other than that, get back onto the guy you bought it from and try and get some receipts or something. Re: Nylon Compressor wheel. I have a R34 with a Neo RB25 in it. It has a stock turbo on the side. Said stock turbo has a nylon synthetic polymer compressor wheel. It's okay for your mind to be blown every once in a while mate. The funny thing about the limitations of the stock turbo though, is the ceramic turbine wheel is what fails first under heat load. Go go fantastic plastic!

My fairly stock R34 (just a turbo-back and pod) gets 10.14km's/L on the highway (sampled when driving from Sydney to Brisbane, in a loaded car. Probably equivalent to having 2 passengers). But around the city when I first got the thing, I was lucky to get 350-400 from a tank (55L). That's cause I was tack-tacking everywhere though.

Working, or working accurately?

Hey guys, back from camping. I'm pretty busy coming into this week though, but I promise you'll all get your requested pics! Promise!

Did you sort out that CV joint/wheel bearing/noise?

I'll be back in here next weekend! But now, I needa get to bed lol. Have a good week guys...