Gizmo73

yep....VERY fun !! Will probably be even more responsive later next week, once i get away from this stinking hot weather in Sydney !!!!

The wait was finally over yesterday !! Ive been acculmulating the parts for over 6 months, and finally got them and the cash to install yesterday... Power FC Ex Cam Gear upgraded wastegate actuator bleed valve And got a good result on 12 psi... Sorry about the pic, but with the size restrictions i had to use my phone.. Hard to pick out, but the original dyno run is in blue (prior to the mods) Very happy with the result, and feels great on the road..

PM Replied..

:werd: RiggaP.. I was going to post the same thing....your mph is pretty low for someone with those mods.. As an indicator, when i went to WSID my mph was 101mph and i had the below mods.. full 3" exhaust - including cats back, hi-flow cat and dump pipe FMIC Boxed Pod Filter i didnt have a power fc, extra boost (except for what the above gave me - about 8psi) or ex cam gear...

Hi.. i have a used Power FC hand controller for sale.. In good working condition.. number on the back is.. FCC NT 9805 - 0010 I believe this will work with the older (ie 1 year+) power FC's - NOT the latest software....which is the reason why im selling it (i have a newer Power FC) $130 including postage within Australia..

Just to add to this, i jus got my car tuned at CRD yesterday by Jim.. Great work, especially for a super hot day. Driveability is a lot smoother, (both freeway and city), the car idles properly now and he also fixed/picked up two other issues that the car had (which i didnt know about !!) Great bloke - had time to explain things to me as well...ill post up the results in the induction forums..

...The flow of the HKS is one of the best when compared to others.. However, regarding pods as well as any other filter - more/better air flow usually means less protection filtering elements.....as attested to the pod noise !! So - conversely, the HKS pod filter also isnt one of the best in regards to protection. Its your choice what you are after. Every 20k i also check the AFM and tubing for any particles - so far it is ok, but you need to change it at least every 20k to ensure you dont get any nasty surprises.. colour difference is mainly for show - however, some colours only come in some sizes...it all depends on the size of your pod.. http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=787

Hey BlueTwo.... Ive also got a HKS pod, except its got the green element.. These should not be cleaned - but replaced. They come pre-oiled, and dont take too well to washing/cleaning. Depending on driving conditions, i would change it every 15/20k... Cost is about $70 from autobarn...

Hey SK and Ash.... Great info - thanks so much for the responses. Seems like there are many factors to be decided when tuning for higher boost.. Two immediate questions come to mind.. 1) Based on what you have stated, would it also make sense that the boost delivery could also (adversely) affect the heat of the turbo - ie higher rated wastegate actuator as compared to bleed valve or ebc ?? 2) Is there a psi at the turbo in which the stock s1 turbo would definetly CIC ?? Based on my current circumstance (and mods), im geting the power fc tuned tomorrow (reputable tuner) and trying to decide whether i want/need 10psi or 12psi... Possibly i need to chat with the tunersome more..

Hey SK... Thought i would drag up this thread since there has been some more talk circling around the stock turbo and boost settings.. With your quote above, it seems pretty straight forward - and it also seems that most people seem to run no more than about 12psi on stock turbo backing up the argument... However, with some recent comments circling (some by yourself) - im most confused, as now i believe you are saying that 10psi is the most you would run.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...stock+turbo+r33 Im just interested in the reasoning, as im getting my car boost levels altered to 12psi, and the conflicting reports are confusing... Mods are.. Ext Cam Gear Full Exhaust - including cat back (HKS super-dragger), hi flow cat and dump pipe (ceramic coated) GTR intercooler with piping (120 degree bend from plenum) rb20 actuator + bleed valve (to be installed) to get the 12psi (...maybe - depending on the comments !!) pod filter with CAI partition iridium sparkies gapped to .8mm power fc and hand controller the relevant whiteline handling thingys.. Car is a daily driver, doing mixture of freeway and city driving. Sees the drags about once every 4 months... Possibly im confused in regards to having an larger intercooler or not (hence less boost the turbo has to generate to acheive the same restriction at the engine) This is NOT a dig at you SK, just would like to get some clarification prior to my car going in on Thursday..

...whats the model number of the pioneer speakers ??

..doesnt the quality of the tune also depend on who uses the software and who uses the hand controller to tune the power fc ?? i thought the software had more granularity than the hand controller - therefore, (in theory) if you get a tune done by the software it could (potentially) be better for both performance and reliability...

Hey Mark.. Personally, i dont think it is worth the hassle of what has been suggested... A stock R33 GTST, running stock boost, is no different (danger/acceleration wise) from owning a (say) v8 (vt holden or au ford) - i really cant see the acceleration causing too much hassle in regards to your driving... (unless you are reckless - which, from this post, it seems you are not) My advice - is to keep the beast stock - spend some $$ on handling if required (suspension, strut braces, etc) and also an advanced driver course. With your road-wise attitude - im sure you would benefit from the above much more than retarding the boost....and im also sure your dad would also approve.... An added benefit is that some insurance companies view favourably the advanced driver course when considering premiums... The bottom line - if you are a responsible driver (or at least have a responsible attidude to driving) - why detune your car when the RTA, insurance companies and yourself wont recognize it ?? (also, you will gain valuable experience driving a high powered car) Matt

Sold... :kewl:

pic emailed to BB - to large to attach... Hi Justin.. BB has first dibs - if the sale falls through, ill PM you...

Hey Guys.. I have for sale a genuine MOMO Corse steering wheel.. Used, but in excellent condition - doesnt come with the horn unfortunately (cant find it) $50 + postage... Ill post up pics tomorrow - PM for any queries. However, for anyone eager you can call me on 0414 662 329..

..Dont think so Dan... i havent seen this skyline before - white series 2 r33 with qld plates (forget what was on them - nothing memorable), nice 18 inchers and a cannon exhaust...

Was driving in the central coast today, when a skyline (qld plates) drove past - what got me was the sticker on his rear window.. "Judge my driving, not my car" in light of recent skyline incidents i thought it quite appropriate... If it is anyone on these forums - big thumbs up...

Colour ?? Condition ? Pics ??? location ??

Hi Guys... 2rismo - what you have stated makes sense - however, i wasnt sure if there was any difference between mechanical retard and overall tuning capabilities.. rev210 - the exact reason why i got them...i really dont care about the end dyno figure, just hoping for a good torque (re: 1/4 mile) result... So - what im hearing is that it seems better to install the cam gear before the overall tune.. Thanks for the replies guys...seems like ill have to wait a while longer before i do the power fc tune... (re: ill do the cam gear install first)

Hey Guys.. As part of my upgrade plan, ive got two more steps to go... 1) Up boost to 12psi, install power fc and tune 2) install Ext Cam Gear Now - in regards to step (2), i understand that this is a mechanical retard. My question is (sorry if its dumb) - is there any advantage to do this together/prior to the power fc tune for maximum gains....or does it matter nothing since the retard is mechanical ??

Hey There.. Pic would be good - [email protected] Also if you could get the model number of the turbo its out of, i can confirm whether its an RB20 turbo or not.. thanks for the reply..

...and a good question at that !! i was actually searching e-bay for an actuator, and this came up... However, im sure this would provide similar RWKW gains.. :Oops:

...bump - id consider a blown rb20 turbo if the price is right...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...4506556865&rd=1