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TimmyMA70

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Everything posted by TimmyMA70

  1. TimmyMA70
    Finished Product: Started assembling the intake manifold again: Now you're up to date
  2. TimmyMA70
    Cleaned the carbon out of the ports on the head and the combustion chamber, also blued the valves and valve seat to check sealing before reassembly New valve stem seals and installation tool Reassembled and ready to be bolted on Head bolted down with new OEM P12 MLS head gasket, new headbolts and washers. Rocker gear in! Cams in Checked Valve Clearance, pretty damn good really. Although, I've put an order in to change a heap of the shims out to get spot on OEM valve clearance. Onto the next project... As you saw in earlier photos the Valve Cover was in dire need of some love. Paint Stripped: Rubbed by hand to remove all corrosion: Masked, ready for painting: Paint time: Bake time:
  3. TimmyMA70
    Continuation of 'let the cleaning begin' BEFORE Oil pump was stripped down, all machined surfaces were taped before being cleaned. AFTER BEFORE AFTER Upper runners and Plenum: BEFORE AFTER Lower Runners BEFORE AFTER Starting the reassembly Getting there now!!
  4. TimmyMA70
    Okay, now to answer the P12 questions: Confirmed 90,882kms from JP She isn't pretty, although give me some time! Test fitted the 4-1's Clearance is clearance Then... Found that the head gasket was about to weep oil: Top end looks clean: Things escalated: Started the clean-up:
  5. TimmyMA70
    Proposed mounting position for the Electric Hydraulic P/S Pump: CAD time - Cardboard Aided Design: Prototype: Approx Mounting position:
  6. TimmyMA70
    I've always loved the P12 SR20VE valve covers, however they are deceivingly 'deep'. Using the OEM oil filler cap just looks way too small. This Nismo one popped up, it is ratchet too which I liked. I'm probably going to paint it, although its a better option I made another discovery that early SR16VE used a water pump gasket. The later SR's have grooves in the sealing face to be able to just squeeze liquid gasket into. This is all well and good, however my water pump blanking plate is indeed just flat, no grooves for liquid gasket: Again with the parts hoarding... P11 and P12 Xcessive Manufacturing Thermal intake gaskets Why the P12 one you ask?? You shall see
  7. TimmyMA70
    A set of 16x7 +35 Buddyclub P1's came up for sale, and I just had to have them (track wheels) More part hoarding: Oil filter block, removes the oil filter housing I have a couple of 32V (V for Viscous LSD) Gearboxes. The one in the car currently is out of a JN15 VZR, it has really short 1st - 3rd gear, 4.43:1 FD. Really fun behind a SR20DE, although the gearing behind a SR20VE isn't ideal, it has you dropping out of VVL. This gearbox is out of a FN15 Autech, which uses a 4.4 FD although the same gearing as what out locally delivered N14/15 manuals, which is a nice spread. The advantage of the 32V series is Cusco made a mechanical 1/1.5way LSD for them Nismo did do a Mech LSD for the 32A (Aus delivered non LSD gearbox) however with the APRA series, they've all been snapped up and are NLA This 32V is in dire need of a good clean-up: BEFORE AFTER
  8. TimmyMA70
    Started aquiring some parts for the P11 SR20VE again: Water Pump blanking plate: I made a discovery a few years ago that the RWD GKTech water temp sender 'blocks' will suit a FWD setup if you cut off the extended leg A Davis Craig EWP kit, doing away with the crank driven water pump (NA LIFE, lol) Since I'm removing the crank driven W/P I though I'd continue the theme and went for a Holden Astra P/S pump, the price was very good, hence buying 2 of them.
  9. TimmyMA70
    Alright guys, prepare yourselves for a big update session A quick snap of how the car currently sits: I scored myself a brand new genuine 90A alternator from a P12 SR20VE Primera There is a reason for the want of extra amperage alternator in a later post A Pulsar Group of Aus member was making up these radiator panels, so I jumped on it, for the price of it, I couldn't even buy the material to make it! All painted up and refitted:
  10. TimmyMA70
    Hey mate, I haven't been on the forum much lately. However, I'm back I used N16 hubs as the hole centers for the caliper carrier bracket are the same as A32 Maxima Saves making a dogbone to mount the caliper.
  11. TimmyMA70
    Heaps of updates mate! I've been spending more time at the track than I have updating my build threads ? I'll do another big update soon, thanks for asking
  12. TimmyMA70
    Hey guys, have been a little light on updates the past couple of weeks. Although did another track day on the 12.8.18 A touch slower partially due to track temp being only 7°C at 2:30pm very cold day, and I had come down with the flu, (was still going to drive though!) Anyway, as always, enjoy and be gentle ?
  13. TimmyMA70
    Yeah!! Love RPF1's mate Love this 'not a build thead' ?? It's coming along nicely.
  14. TimmyMA70
    Hey guys, another update. My Ross Performance Crank trigger + pulley has shown up!! AFAIK this is the first one of their production ones to be sold ? I'll let the pictures do the talking though.
  15. TimmyMA70
    That intake manifold definitely won't double my power, that's for sure haha! So $/kw NOS is still the winner. However when the engine is finished I am hoping that this little N/A screamer will make your pee pee move ?
  16. TimmyMA70
    Definitely don't kid, lol. I'm really keen to see how it performs though! Thanks Ben, hopefully the work pays off mate. ?? she's always going to be strictly N/A, no swaying me there matey. Definitely won't be as cost effective though, you're right. I really love an unassisted N/A screamer ? Unfortunately $/hp sucks quiet alot in that respect. That's why I put the N14 on a diet ?
  17. TimmyMA70
    Okay, another update. I have had this in my hands for some time now, although I haven't posted any images just yet, so here they are: This is a SR16VE N1 intake manifold off the JN15 VZR N1. These intake manifolds have a larger throttle body and better designed runners than the SR20VE, their only downfall is they are designed for a 1.6L, so the diameter of the runners is a little small. I sent the manifold over the AMMFAB in the US as his work is second to none, especially his welding on cast aluminium. The runners were ported out excessively, same as the plenum. This is the intake manifold I plan on running on my built 20VE once finished. The N1 manifold have been proven in the past once ported to within an inch of their life. So I am hoping this one will be the same. The plan is to have the manifold and TB ceramic coated in silver to keep it looking nice and bright. Enough jabbering and time for some photos:
  18. TimmyMA70
    Alright guys, another parts accumulation post. I bought myself a 4 point underbody brace from Whiteline, I'll fit it up and re-wheel align before the next track day P.S I've got a bigger post coming, it's more parts accumulation, although I think you'll like it.
  19. TimmyMA70
    Yep, I get that completely mate. Same as my setup. I replaced mine while the dash was out for good measure. Hit me up if you want me to look up the genuine Nissan part number on FAST for you
  20. TimmyMA70
    What's your plan with the heater core leak mate?
  21. TimmyMA70
    I want to keep this car street registered or at least right on the border lol, hence no cage, so no full on serious racing for me. I will have a shitload of fun doing some 'club' type track days in it though, especially with the wife on board with it all
  22. TimmyMA70
  23. TimmyMA70
    I'm actually using A32 Maxima front calipers and rotors man. Twin piston calipers 280mm rotors. Rears are a mash-up Essentially A32 Maxima setup Although on an N14 its not a plug and play unlike an N15. GTiR rear calipers with A32 Maxima caliper brackets and Ford Focus ST170 rear rotors (280mm) machined down to 278mm same as the Maxima. GTiR rear calipers are the same physical caliper as the A32 rear, just the caliper bracket spacers the caliper out.
  24. TimmyMA70
    Also, I had a little fiddle this afternoon and managed to get the harness bar mounted in nicely. Need to machine up a couple of new spacers to make it fit perfectly. Although it's not too bad now. I want to run this: 1. So I can use my harnesses safely, the bar is setup to be level with the top of my shoulders. I am waiting for my other harness to arrive. 2. So I have somewhere better to mount the GoPro, so it doesn't look like I'm filming from a potato... ? Anyway, here is a couple of photos.
  25. TimmyMA70
    Hey guys, got the Pro photos back yesterday and thought I'd share Thanks for looking
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