M@&k

^^ Looks very neat. Been resprayed? Any more photos?

400whp sounds like a lot for this turbo, but I understand that American dynos read quite a bit higher than over here. Any idea by how much?

Didn't you only just fit the SS2 like a couple of weeks ago?

Cam covers done in wrinkle black as well, or just the timing belt cover? Hard to tell from pic.

Price on cam covers posted to WA 6007?

Received today. As mentioned previously by others, kit comes well packaged with notes on what goes where. Very happy with quality. Cheers!

I've got a Nistune in mine, and for the price, can't really complain. Had an issue recently where one of the tracks on the circuit board (not sure if Nistune or Mainboard) burnt through, and needed to be sent back for diagnostic and repair. Only cost like $80 for the fix including postage. My main gripe is poor driveability on tip-in and closed throttle. Can drive around it, but means I need to ride the clutch a lot at low speeds. But, I'm told this is tune related rather than Nistune. Going for turbo upgrade soon so will see if re-tune fixes it. Also asked if ECU upgrade would be worth it and was told that Nistune would be fine. In conclusion I guess, I'm not complaining with Nistune for the money. But if I were to start again, I would strongly consider getting something like the Adaptronic straight up.

Halloo, sent payment and PM on the weekend. Did you receive? Cheers.

Interested in kit for R33 Gtst if you have one. Sent PM a couple of days ago...

I was originally looking at the Five-0 Motorsport injectors as well. But heard Stao (Hypergear) had one fail on him, and then search on the interwebs showed several reviews where reliability was coming up as a concern. I'm sure there are plenty that are running with no problem as well, but it was enough of a worry for me to fork out the extra for the Nismos. And yes, I do also like seeing Nismo on my shopping list

True true. Mine is lowered (hence the previous 2deg+ camber), but not that low as you can see from pics.

Brief update, which seems kind of relevant given recent questions on 265s. This is 18x10 +38 with 265/35. Have recently had suspension adjusted and now at zero camber on rear. Before was more than 2deg, didn't realise was that much Still no problems at all with rubbing after adjustment, have had a fairly light roll, no pull or flare. Before and after View from the top. Poking by maybe 5 mm.

Where you located?

Guys, just a little addition for those wanting to remove the pin from the loom plug rather than cutting the wire. After about 15 mins trying to push the pin out, noticed there was this grey cover on the plug. If you lift that up you can get to the latch which holds the pin in. I just used a tiny flat head screwdriver to lift up the latch thingy while pulling on the wire. This was on a Series 1 R33 Gtst, but hopefully is much the same for others. Thanks Johnny for this wiring tip. Got it sorted today after lock bar install, and no more HICAS warning

Just like to add my vote for WA Suspensions. Went there on the basis of recommendations here. Spoke to Lachlan (didn't realise was Hank Scorpio?), and he talked me through what would be recommended for my budget. Very professional service, and fair pricing. Took the car for a spin this morning and couldn't be happier with the result!

I have 18x10 +38 with 265s. Easy fit with rolled guards. Was thinking of trying to squeeze 285s in there when next due for tyres if I still have these rims. Edit: stuffed up pic attachment...

Not arguing the fact they're different. Just don't understand why... HICAS is attached to the rear subframe. Why should it require different engine mounts. Anyway, apologies. Didn't mean to derail the thread. Was just curious.

Why would the engine mounts be different for HICAS? Not saying they're not, just NFI why they need to be...

Cool, thanks for the advice. Actually Tein was the main one he was mentioning, so sounds like that might be an option.

Hi guys, I was ready to pull the trigger on a set of BR coilovers, but was talking to suspension shop (WA suspensions) and was recommended to me that I get the ER series instead. I was under the impression that the ER were more track oriented, and that BR series would better suit me (basically only a street car), however the suspension guy said from his experience that the ER series were more adjustable and just generally better quality. He recommended instead of BC BR, would be better with Japanese manufactured (Kusco, Blitz, Tein). Reading comments on here, I'm still convinced the BC BR are most suited. But now worried that the suspension guy will think I've gone against his recommendation and don't want to get off on the wrong foot with someone working on my car, especially seeing as I'm looking to get a bunch of other work done at the same time (sway bars, bushes etc). So. Would you go ahead with the BR series and run the risk of the suspension shop getting annoyed, or pay the bit extra to upgrade to the ER series even though seems overkill for a street application?

On Page 450 there was a photo of a new ATR43SS1PU prototype. Haven't seen anything about it since. Did I miss something or is this still in development?

Where you located?

Guys, posted before asking if anyone had any thoughts on if this 7163 would fit in stock location given it's bigger than similar sized Garrett units (e.g. 3071 / 3076) ? May have trodden over my own question by posting the comp map comparison straight after... Any thoughts on fitment? Also, any guestimates on when the 7163 might be making boost? Comparable to 3071 maybe?

GTX3071 and EFR7163 plots Efficiency islands: GTX 76% EFR 74% Speed lines GTX 110k & 125k EFR 110k & 130k

GTX3071 and EFR7163 plots Efficiency islands: GTX 76% EFR 74% Speed lines GTX 110k & 125k EFR 110k & 130k