sucram

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old solution was to add a spacer

I have also noticed nozzles getting clogged over time. It seems that the brass is reacting and corroding with meth/alcohol. It doesnt seem to be as much of a problem with just water, unless you are using an alloy water reservoir I have considered mixing a lube in with the meth or using glycerin with the water before mixing them together.

If I was given N1 manifolds I would use them, but I would not pay for them since the difference is so minor and can be done with about 30 mins and a die grinder. If you go larger in I.D generally you will loose port speed and incur lag. Sometimes with no appreciable top end gain. You can make up some of it with collector design but with low mounts you are limited.

look like -7 possible that at some point one broke and was replaced or they were from different batches which is perfectly fine.

I would be careful selling this as a hks bov, according to this it is probably a copy: http://my.is/forums/f114/compared-fake-hks-bov-real-hks-bov-new-type-4-fakes-434959/

so how do you get the extra 30% off? Currently its 10% off what am I missing?

3 speed!?6 Ahh os 1st to 3rd, stock 4th and 5th.

How come you chose to run them straight off of your plenum instead of run the plenum size you wanted and have the heat exchanger seperate?

No doubt the twin 6258 spools well for an 800 hp set up, but if youre comparing it to the dog shit 100% stock car that is lazy below 4k rpm its sort of unfair. An rb26 that has stock turbos can build 5psi no prob at 2k rpm when basic mods are done. Mine would toot around in 5th grear with 255/35/18's at 60kph. 6258 are atleast 100hp each more and with runners that are not optimal for low power/rpm/boost tootleing around. No way would it have factory type drivability which is of concern for most who like in a major metro city in australia which does not have the open type roads America has.

Doubt it will be amazing. The s4 rx7 had this, made no real difference on stock to to4s internals.

4.363 2 way $780 possibly tomei, maybe kaaz too (should have under 4k klm) sold

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You really need to push it to see real gains with wmi. If you only put a few degrees in it you might see a few hp. Its when you up the boost and lean on it is where it shines. Down side is one blocked jet and your stressing everything. For this reason im now leaning towards larger single jet and as always good filters. Also someone mentions a 22 psi trigger point which is fine, so long as you start leaning onion it after your switch point. Even with solenoids on the jet you always run the chance of a small air bubble from cruising vacuum, decel etc. Also, meth is good but can corrorde jets etc like someone mentioned. Im trialing some light machine oil mixed with the meth, then mixing water and a few drops of dawn for mix ability to extend nozzle cleaning intervals. I also want to try r30 oil which is a good mineral oil used in rotas and 2smokes. i had to switch mine off and run a straght pump tune since the mrs is using it atm. I wss running 50!50 by weight. Another thing i want to try is less meth until i need to back something off in the tune. As always lots of playing around.. best to learn to tune yourself before hand Shameless plug i still have a brand new aquamist 1s system for sale. See sig

Sound like he is scared to tune to it. If you just put it on you will drop a few hp since combustion is slowed. If your running it just in case you get a bad batch of fuel it might be tuned to the raggered edge. To use it to clean your engine, upper engine cleaner is more convenient.

nice also why did you chose air to air instead of W2A for a drag car, gonna go cruising?

is that enough clearance between the header tank/oil separator and front tyre?

Wont do much, but your basically only paying for the materials so you may as well get it done. If you leave the exhaust, you probably wont get it done, just like I have constantly put it on the back burner. I couldn't get my head around it either. Until I needed heat management on a bike as it was basically unrideable in summer or any period of traffic, with leathers on. Coating made it a non issue even in shorts! From what I recall, the inside layer absorbs/reflects some heat and the outside insulates or contains it. Its about slowing down temp spikes which reduces the surfaces overall and peak temps. Once coated you might notice that it stays warmer for longer. This is why I never get my intake coated because in my mind I think it will be heat soaked for longer and hotter which is debateable. On a ship the engine is inside which I assume has little air flow, so insulating is the only option. If you have a flange that is 1 foot thick I doubt you will warp it and im guessing housing walls are really thick too. Also, the insulation used in industrial might have the initial thinner layer quite loose and then a tightly packed secondary layer. Compared to a turbo beanie in a car that is randomly and tightly packed, along with heat cycles you get the same effect of layers peeling off on the housing. Where industrial might run for days/weeks/months and with room to have massively thick layers. Even when shut off might be a few hundred deg C for days. This relatively low heat cycle might be maybe 2 dozen in its life time. Most industrial/ship engines run at a constant load and relative heat unlike a car which sees wild temp spikes in short periods in comparison. Don't get me wrong, im not anti beanie, as they do work and work very well. Its just the toll they take when directly on a housing. On a low mounted turbo rotary you have no option but to use one as its so close to the intake. But back then there wasn't any real heat shields available. So now you can run housing, air gap, heat shield, benie or insulate and then intake manifold and basically no heat cycle fatigue.

Full race manifolds are basically a stainless steam pipe If you compare it to a china manifold, while it might be 2.8-3.1mm thick, the way they are made vary greatly, they are mig'd then a tig is run over to make it look like its been tig'd. Penetration varies and hot spots cant be seen as they "polish" them. I would coat the lot. I would even coat the exhaust all the way to the rear muffler. The heat off even the cat back section increases cabin temps, if you have carpet it will start to deteriorate the carpet just in front of your passenger seat on the hump for the cat. Even if it hasn't had a cat for 10 years! If you plan to track your car or drive in Sydney on 35deg + days its a no brainer, might cost an extra $80 since they can only do the outside but will reduce radiated heat Seen heaps of jap manifolds crack at the welds, its prob 99% of where I have seen cracks. Im not an expert on welding and can only do enough to get me by. If I had to say 1 reason, is because they are not really that thick and the weight of the turbo/gate/poorly hung exhaust cracks it or a combo of both.

Brand new Nissan Z32 AFM in the box, includes AFM plug with harness/lead Bought brand new before bosch even started supplying them, has sat in a box next to my PC for probably 6, maybe 7 years and was forgotten about. Have since gone to a MAP sensor about 5-6 years ago in the car it was going to go in. In the genuine Nissan box, I vaguely recall this cost over $550 when I bought it which was well before bosch were able to supply an alternative. $350 FIRM Located Bankstown Can express post $12, add paypal fees if that's your preference, verified only or no fee for bank deposit.