sucram

Meh once he tells how his engine fitted it will be back on track ;-) I dont think MGP ever raced 880cc. Just 500cc 2 stroke, 1k, now 800cc and back to 1k next year. I know where your coming from tho, its like the 600cc vs 1000cc shit fights on bike forums

Yep sure is!

I thnk there is a serial number on the yellow card? Not on the actual box tho

This is still in the thought process. The only thing set in stone is the material used. The main reasons im doing this is to reduce some of the heat soak from the engine and to make a slight alteration to the intake runner length. Looking for better low to Mid range without effecting top end Here are the links to wiki http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakelite http://en.wikipedia....maldehyde_resin The RB26 and its ITB's make it a little different from most cars where they run a plenum- runner- throttle- runner again and most cars run a throttle- plenum- runners so adding spacers between the head and intake manifold also effect runner length and crosses over to plenum volume slightly. So we know a few things. Longer Runner length can aid in low/mid power but this isnt necessarily at partial throttle since that is more effected by velocity at low flow Increasing plenum volume can give more mid to top end power Actual heat reduction of the intake manifold etc will only help when in heavy traffic in low flow situations. I.e under 2k rpm. There are guys who have had heat soak issues on the dyno and once an ice bag was left on it for a while power returned. Pic's borrowed from google Stock intake set up fitted to an engine Plenum and throttle bodies. Increasing the plenum and the first part of the runner volume will need to be between the plenum and throttle bodies however this will require adjustment of the linkages and throttle cable. TPS voltage would need to be checked and could even be used to adjust throttle position back to whereI had it before. Initially I was thinking of a 6mm spacer here, but I think 3mm will work out better. More later This is the manifold showing where the ITB's bolt to. It has the radiator neck incorperated into it so I will want to run a 3mm spacer here. Looks like the studs will be just long enough. Was going to just run 6mm spacer here and forget the 3mm spacer above. I have a feeling that 3mm spacers on either side will work better then just a 6mm spacer after the ITB's for partial throttle responce. (unsure as I have a cold and head hurts) I'm not sure if I will bother running a spacer here. It looks like a pain to cut and is heated by coolant anyways. The only reason why I can think of running one is for additional runner length. Running a 3mm spacer here as well will give a total of 9mm which might put the intake pipe out of alignment

lol Doesnt hi octane sell em for $40 in perspex?

Arc is basically useless- unless your looking to use the weld to build up. i.e train knuckle brakes Mig is great for tacking. Exhausts etc or if you want to bird shit a bench together. Tig, only time I hate it is when you need to tack something really quick so this is my choice My vote would be self taught and seek advice when you get stuck. I find some people can easily pick up things and some need their hand held a lot so pick which catagory your in and go from there.

Engine size comes down to personal preference One isnt necessarily better then the other, since both (and everything in between) can be built to do something similar

qri is the oz dealer for cp

aww thats no fun

He really only needs 1 shim and he can work out what the clearance is to order new shims A full set will make it easier instead of doing 1 at a time. I seen a guy on ebay selling stock shims for $75 doo doo gave me details of a guy who makes shims in melb

It probably wont go bang but fuel pooling in the core is a pain. On a draw through set up the need for an IC is less because you have the fuel absorbing some of the heat as the air is compressed. So your intake temps arnt as hot. If you run a blow through set up on low boost, most carbs will take it. You might see 30-50% more power on 5-7psi Any more then that carbs will start to leak and ignition timing is a problem Running around in old shitters with a turbo is fun tho If its an old galant/lancer? Tho you might have more fun and easier time putting a 2.6 in it. from what I recall they bolt straight in- just make up a tailshaft

you cant run an IC on a draw through set up ;-(

I would be interested in an rb26 one speak to the supplier, im sure it wouldnt be a prob using rb26 dampers to fill up your numbers. imo you would be hard pressed getting 25 just for zeds

you both have different driving styles which will result in different speeds. Rock squeezes out of corners where the in the above embedded vid (different driver?) squares the corner. So exiting a corner driver (A) is at 40% throttle gradually squeezing it open and at the same point driver (B) but is at full throttle. Same thing in a roll on race even if you have a bit more power then the guy next to you, and he gets the jump on the start you cant always claw your way back. At the end of the day put driver (B) in both cars and he will always have a faster speed at the end of the straight then driver (A) Marko- never under estimate driver ability/experience. Otherwise we would all be driving F1 cars and we will be all lapping within a tenth of each other

The splitter in the garrett and hks turbos on the housing is too short. It helps that the wastegate doesnt point at the turbine gasses though. If the splitter is too long its restrictive, too short and its not as effective.

pretty sure most N1's had adjustable preload

boost cut

Are you sure the head gasket was the first to fail, which lead to an engine failure?

Im in Sydney I dont have a pic on me, looks exactly like the below kit (borrowed from google)

I usually do a U turn before it gets tight- then it doesnt matter what time you get there

Genuine Greddy Alloy Pulley kit suit R32 GTR Includes Water pump, Power Steering and alternator pulley as well as the alternator fittings and instructions Brand new and includes Express Post Shipping within Oz Wont fit 33/34 gtr Translated text from the greddy website Weight by a pulley, reduces rotational inertia of the engine shaft, the better the response. Duralumin (A2017) made of anodized blue. Belt supports genuine. Water Pump, Pawasuteponpu, alternators, for there are ハイドロリックモーターベーンポンプ. Large diameter aluminum GReddy Pulley Kit Stock lasts ※, will be discontinued. The large-diameter aluminum pulley RB26DETT engine only. The design for the ratio of each rotation of the pulley, high speed specification (9000rpm) engine support. The larger and lighter pulley, greatly reducing friction. Response is improved, the power and torque boost. In addition, since the increased bearing area of ​​the belt prevents belt slip even at high rpm. Cooling water to prevent cavitation at high speeds, is also effective in preventing overheating. Reduce the burden of the alternator at high speeds, ensuring enough charge at low rpm. Duralumin (A2017) made of anodized blue. Water Pump, Pawasuteponpu, alternators, for there are ハイドロリックモーターベーンポンプ. Fan belt only reinforced durable, and comes with Pawasuteberuto. A large diameter pulley kit installation requires turning the crank pulley.

Has the fuel stop on the putty been fixed? If so you can easily do an old pac run, wollombi and putty then back via windsor or turn around and do it again provided you get fuel just before oph The road into jenolan caves is good, about 40 mins from the end of bells line. Once it tightens up its not very fun since its narrow and lots of tour busses/slow pokes going both ways

do you think the rev's had anything to do with it

Kinda hard to tell how much weight's been taken off the crank but it is possible to loose torque up top when too much weight is removed

how much was it?