sucram

I have had it for a while, was going to be used on a project but I ended up going a different route. I would prefer to keep it in its bag until a genuine buyer requests with cash waiting. Nah, just make one up

This is why he is suggesting 8/6 8/6 is pretty hard for a road car, even worse with low profile tyres, worse again when you use sticky low profile road/track tyres Flopping all over the place is usually a sign of shit shock valving if you have springs in the ball park

Im using their 700cc. Noise is about the same as stock GTR. They are a touch fluffy at idle, but a power fc idle reset got rid of most of it. Pretty common on any aftermarket injector larger then stock. I am of the opinion that they over rate their injectors I have their pump as well and that has been tested and around 10% over rated- although they might test with no lines, I tested in the car. Pretty stupid to rate a pump without lines

hard to photo through plastic but it says 87 (0.87 A/R)

Im getting this error when trying to attach pics on both basic and advanced Upload Skipped (Error413)

Im amazed it has taken this long really.. 3K kit, copy and sell for 1k, cost less then $100 to make

Yeah its the glass shape, if it were a smooth curve most of this will probably be eliminated. Im looking to borrow a H3/H3C (maybe H1?) HID kit if anyone has a cheap kit they are not using. I wouldn't mind seeing how the stock projector goes with some mods. Mainly thinking of shortening and making a custom cut off shield and foreground limiter. Only need 1 side for 4 weeks max, prefer Sydney, im in Bankstown area

Brand new, never been out of the plastic bag, selling as no longer required Makes approx. 14pst @ 3500rpm and around 250 rw kw on an RB25 depending on supporting mods. Turbo and HKS adjustable wastegate only T3 inlet, HKS PRO S outlet 3'' inlet with surge, 2'' outlet 56trim $2650 Wont let me post pics (error 413) , ill come back later to update with pics

It would be hard to pit the strap without blowing an engine. Best thing is to get it under good magnification and tell me what you see.

I don't understand why we need to import when we have a lot of resources already growing here that can be used..

This street is very dark, lights only on one side. I am actually a lot further away then the original pic and I can now pretty much see to the end of the street

Im missing the before pic here but the buildings are approx. 80m away. The car is pointed upwards. In situations like this there is a stupid amount of foreground light (directly in front of the car) which is why I made up fore ground limiters (a bigger shield) to block some of it. I decided to drive around for a bit without them for a while first the before pic there wasn't any real light on the building, it stopped at the cars

Another car park which is also fairly well lit and is pitch black in the distance, im probably a little closer to the speed hump then I was originally

Output shots, before and after. I forgot what I used as a reference on the ground but its close enough to get an idea Current globes fitted are old Phillips D2R in the left and D2S 85122 + that came with the ballasts. The D2r has had the painted glare shield cut off with a razor (4th pic) In this pic I would guess im a car width to the left and further back from the wall You can see there is some flare up at the steps. This wasn't there when I had the FXR's fitted without headlight covers. I can only put this down to the glass covers. It seems the more colour you have the more flare up. I couldn't quite get zero colour, nor could I get consistent colour over the entire cut off, well I could but I had to lower the shield so much that output would suffer. 3rd pic is not far off what I ended up with, without covers. I actually tried to get rid of the colour at the cut off since I already tested it with a housing and seen the flare up, the guys on hidplanet suggested there isn't much I could do and I eventually got jack of it and settled

Mounted in the car after alignment, one projector slightly out would have annoyed me, even though I have never payed attention before hand

I managed to find the problem, this adjuster was interfering with the bixenon spring. The passenger side didn't require clearance with a file and the bracket was measured in the same fashion but execution was rushed. I removed the adjustor and cut it 4-5mm I also managed to align the projector and chrome housing. I unscrewed the pivot approx. 7mm. Attached a pic fresh from the oven (no adjustments made)

Double post WTF again?!?

output pics to come later (sorry for being anti climatic), the drivers side is back out for some minor adjustment, something, unknown to me went of out whack even though I spent time setting up and aligning without covers fitted Tools I used: Drill with 10mm, 5 or 6mm drill bits Marker, scribe, pin punch (spring loaded) assorted small needle files, flat, round, half circle Large flat bastard and half circle Clamp/vise Hacksaw screwdriver Parts you will need from www.theretrofitsource.com: Morimoto FXR 3'' RHD (sorry I cant past links) $150 US D2S (D2R also fits) $100 US (I suggest Osram Xenarc) or top tier Osram/Phillips are $190 Ballasts D2S Matsushita $170 US (Or Denso for $200 US which can be modified for more output) JB weld $5 You will also need connectors for the ballasts you use, my Gen 3 matsushita didn't need a relay What I did to my projectors: Lowered shield slightly for larger hotspot Moved shield forward to compensate for lowering Twisted ends of shield to compensate for moving the shield forward Fore ground limiter (currently removed) 1mm Bulb spacer (currently removed) Sealed lower half with aluminium tape (was getting scatter due to mods) *NB Don't play with your projectors as you can ruin the output. It might take you 5 mins or could take hours to get it right. I would suggest you read a lot before you play and then read some more. Easier option is just use the top tier bulbs and go from there Overall I am happy to also recommend www.theretrofitsource.com their parts are good and they shipped the next day back after being on holidays!

Cover installed, at this angle it looks worse then what it is, you will never look at the light from this angle but at the moment, its staying where it is. In the back ground you can see the ballast, this brand has quite a long lead and is waterproof, I just need to seal up the section where the connector goes as that is the only non water proof part. Like I said, drivers side has given me grief. Left side went in, got adjusted and when everything was reinstalled is perfect. Not sure whats going on here, if it annoys me enough I will pull it apart

Since im using OEM D2S I need to trim the back of the housing. I would have cleaned it up but, you know... Some people have used gear boots to seal it up but I might use some CV boots since you can get cheapies for about $10 each. I plan to cable tie the big end and silicon the wires on the small end. If you have a simpler/cheaper alternative im all ears

Here is a picture of the 5mm spacer that you will need in between the adaptor and projector. I made some from brass, but also reused the offcuts from the top mounts that I removed since they are perfect fit

Here is the drivers side installed with the adaptor bracket This one required a little extra clearance for the lower adjustor, I did this with a round file

Another angle, It doesn't look flat and its not. They adjustors are only just in there. If you have a close look at the nylon part of the adjustor you can see that 3mm sheet will be fine also. If you happen to loose or break one, you can buy them from Supercheap/auto ban etc. They are in the screw/nuts/bolts section and called a body fastener. They are slightly different looking but will do the same thing.

Testing that the bracket fits the adjustors and pivot

Other side epoxied as well, one side of the pivot needs to be trimmed to clear the projector. Mounting holes are not yet elongated but I have drilled and filed all of the other mounts. There wasn't any accurate way for me to do this. I split the old projector in half and used that as a "guide". Since the bodies are about the same size I could use that as a reference. Drilled a hole and started to file. If you do it this way line it up a few times to make sure your on target. it can be 1-2mm out but I doubt you can be much more then that.