sucram

turbo responce is actually slower when you consider boost Vs. time. I have a couple of logs from about 2k to about 150klm back to back which shows a 0.7s reduction in time with pre turbo WI on. They are stock turbos, which were run for about 5-6 years at 17-18 psi so they are worthless anyway. I would like to see the effects on stockers before I consider using it on anything worth while. Comp wheel damage is possible which is why im trying it on shitters. Not so sure on how the housings will get damaged though

Thought I would test it while I had stockers on the car while the 2530's are being modified Attached some typical data, copied from pfc log, clutter removed so its basically time, rpm, speed, boost, tps Tab 1 no water injection Tab 2 pre turbo switched on @10psi Tab 3 pre turbo switched on @2psi No post turbo water injection 50/50 water meth each turbo has a 70cc/min nozzle which has been tested Full throttle is 3.9v All are 3rd gear from about 2k and nailing it No timing or duty changes Highlighted from 3 to 8psi, 8 to 13 psi, 13 psi to 16 psi with time differences manually typed in Im in the mindset of disregarding boost vs rpm as the stockers spool really quickly I would like to test larger nozzles but I dont have any larger pairs pre turbo WI.xls

dam my tail pipe probe came loose last night where was the $60 sensor from?

Will the software tell you diff ratio's?

bump I need this damper gone since I didnt need an R33/R34 unit

2 different batches are possible, but not likely. My bet is that they had 1 on the shelf. They used a disco potatoe (for example) for the other, possbily needed to machine housings to suit. Since the original tag would have said GT-RS/gt2871 etc they removed it, fitted a new one, stamped 707160-5 as the part number. 05S might be a machining code or something and 109935-D is a serial/job number. the gtr bolt on turbos are made in japan and are on the tags/box where the vast marjority of GT's come from mexico What does the distributor say? If it came with a reciept and they are a genuine reseller I doubt you will have any problem with authenticity

water/meth works well you can get OK results from just whacking a "kit" in but for best results you need to do a bit of testing

Are you sure these numbers are correct?

I couldnt get my AEM to read consistently. It was one of their first batches when they first came out though so maybe they changed shit

for $120 new I would probably use another one. For $190 I would use something else. If you need the gauge I have mine still- I cant find the loom and sensor

I was going to suggest this! Status can you post a pic of the connectors you have, im interested! Patch loom connectors from motec come with a small PCB so you can solder them, they do cost more but just the connector will do for me since ill probably just terminate and hot glue it If anyone wants to swap their SM4 for a Djetro im all ears!

Couple of things tha havent been mentioned. Fuel pumps dont last forever but it could be a dying fuel pump Engine breathng heavy. It could be flinging more oil into the PCV or intake Weather is a big factor. The power fc doesnt have a great intake temp compensation, the oem sensor in the rb26 is coated so its slow to respond anyways. If you get your car tuned in winter, there is a good chance it will knock in summer as you cant heat soak and engine or replicate 40deg c temps easily. However it is possible to take an educated guess at it. Its a compromise but beats a retune for summer or winter whch isnt really feasible. Fuel is an interesting one too. When vortex first came out, it was more oxygenated then BP/Shell/mobile however I found that you could run a bit more timing on shell for example but it would run richer. It seems they have changed their fuel as now it is very similar to what shell used to be. Its not likely that a tuner will tune so close to the edge that it will det on change of fuels, but if you have a combination of things going on it will contribute. Say your pump is getting tired, engine is breating a bit more, hotter weather then when it was tuned, going through cells not ususally seen on the dyno Biggest one, air temp compensation, the power fc's isnt great but it can be effective enough

lots of variables -how it was set up -which arias pistons -Application, street, competition only The biggest factor is 1st and 3rd

yea careful with the sards on ebay, sards wholesale is a lot more then what they are selling them for on ebay. I do have a new sard FPD that I wont be using, $200. I even have an adaptor to suit the stock nissan rails if needed

sydney can ship if needed

about 10 years ago a friend did this. I think he had a turbo starion at the time. He poped the clip off the actuator/flap and noticed better economy. From memory the car was basically standard. It wasnt just a little bit of economy, it was pretty significant. He drove it around like that for atleast 6 months. It got me interested so I did the same to my car at the time. Quite funny driving around. Nearly like NA but it will still pull really low boost up top. You can also hear the turbo trying to spool driving around but no boost. I noticed better economy too but got jack of it and didnt last a week till the clip found its way back on. regarding your switch/circuit. There are water injection parts that people sell off the shelf that when the systems pressure switch detects a clog it will N/O or N/C to a safty trigger (solenoid) linked to your wastegate control to run wastegate pressure. They also use it for low level saftey imo go for it, wont be hard or time consuming to knock up. you will notice better economy but it might drive like shit. The earlier your system produces boost the more fuel to be saved but also has the biggest impact on driveability

Keep going deeper Nothing is ever fine, even if you have a fresh set up. Shit happens. My main point is, the guy has taken it to a tuner, good chance a reputable one and since I havent had personal experience with them its hard to be sure. They have probably done a fair few and probably a whole heap of other cars with similar turbos and is aware that they are ceramic. This isnt the mid 90's where info and experience is limited. We have thousands of GTR's in oz now. The guy is happy with the work, even notes that hes getting better highway mileage. Then all this touting that hes running too much boost and scaring the poor bugger into turning it down. I doubt any of these guys were there. All they are doing is touting shit that they read/their mate did/etc. So straight up giving flack to this tuner because he decides thats what the engine likes and he can make it live.

I said that back in 03 and I will say it again, intake pressure has nothing to do with ceramic turbo failures. The answer lies somewhere else. Hint its on the exhaust side of things to start with

wouldnt worry about your boost too much. Its a long on going debate. I would comment on how long my car ran standard r32 turbos for (at more then 1 bar) which arnt as good as r34 units but it would just turn into a shit fight. Basically, trust your tuner, hes probably done a lot more cars for a lot longer then keyboard tuners on here

cut your losses, sell the remaining good turbo and buy a set of -5's If your going to use the HKS housing, the comp needs to be welded and remachined due to the smaller inducer on -5's. The only way to get around this is if you use -10's but you will still need to machine the comp cover to suit the larger wheel. Then you have a problem with laggy turbos. By the time you spend $900 on each CHRA, plus machining/welding you may as well buy a new set of -5's for $2200

pics

Can you buy the fuel pump pre filter from Nissan or aftermarket? I done a search, even a search for a microfiche to find if its sold seperatly No luck with either, I cant believe there isnt a microfiche uploaded on the net somewhere!

Not a lot of pods will fit and no air box will fit with your pipes. HKS Pods may fit but the diameter might be too big. Basically your only options would be to use the greddy filters or apexi. The apex filters wont fit with the HKS Maf housings since the apexi pods are about 120mm long There are 2 filters you can use, the standard dia 160mm or the smaller 140mm. 160mm will be touch and go, 140mm will fit easily. In addition to that no one makes a 140mm "copy" so you are pretty much 100% going to get genuine no matter where you order from. The apexi pods will bolt up to a z32 maf housing, but the ones you have are too long. You will need to cut them shorter or just sell them and buy shorter adaptors which are about $30 per pair or like $40 ea + shipping for genuine apexi. Im in a similar situation to you wanting to replace because I still have the stock AFM's there. Basically im ready to pull the trigger on the 140mm filters and china spec adaptors, but if you want to sell your filter base (black rubber bit with z32 bolt pattern) I would be keen if you just gonna bin them.

This is a brand new Nissan item in box and I will include the plug/loom kit as well Its not a copy or a bosch, it is a genuine Nissan part $340 Shipped via express post

Actually they do have adjustment. I swear I put an allen key in to check before but just double checked