RIPae86

Bargain. Better than an SAFC!

HKS VPC to suit RB20 with harness complete with all sensors required $200 good condition plug and play use to remove AFM unit and tune air/fuel http://oldschool.sup...com/htm/vpc.htm I wanted to use it but need to pay for failed uni subject lol 0411579685 also selling a greddy emanage http://www.skylinesa...87#entry5907587

Hi Selling emanage blue tuned currently for rb20det with cooler, exhaust, r33, 555cc, 180rwkw With loom to plug and play It was just an impulse buy as usual, I haven't used it yet Would like to get $150 for it, The same amount I picked it up for Can provide you with the software if you want Cheers! Prefer a call or if you cant reach me leave me an sms and ill get back to you 0411579685 located in south east Melbourne

Your right Brezza, it might be that a few of the cooler hoses and vacuum lines i have are just too old, i replaced all of the original ones when i swapped the turbo. I double checked all of the vaccum hoses i could see and replaced all of the 4mm and 6mm hoses i could see (Didnt have any replacement hoses for the big ones so not changed yet) - still whistling I tighten the bolts but only millimeters as its already fully loaded (I hope they dont break) - Still the same whistle But then I realised the the r33 turbo does not fit on the stock intake rubber pipe of the r32 and is quite loose, I tightened the rubber hose with the clamp but it may still have some leaks. So i got a bit of intercooler 2.25" hose and put it over the turbo intake and then put the r32 intake hose over it, it was a tight fit. I then clamped it tight and took the car for a drive. I noticed there is less whistling at lower rpms and it comes on at a higher boost than before, maybe a 1000 rpm higher but not as loud. There must be boost leaks somewhere so i just have to find it. At this rate though i would be replacing every rubber hose in the car lol Maybe I need an r33 intake hose but putting it in the r32 means I cant have the stock airbox position as its longer... A good thing is a havent seen any hesitation on my test drives sop lets hope it stays that way

thanks for the replys! I found an intercooler clamp that seems to get loose after a few kms of driving, that has been replaced. Also changed some worn vaccum lines. Still after a few kms of driving there is some hesitation that goes away momentarily after turning the car off and on again. I'm checking the turbo to manifold bolts as we speak and will post what happens thanks!

Hello I recently installed an r33 turbo in a stock r32 gts4 and i drove it for a few days and it was fine, it obviously needed a tune. All of a sudden on the drive home tonight the car has severe hesitation when i open the throttle (like the car is stalling, rocking back and forth) and the idle is high at 1500 and sometimes moves from 1000 to 1500 continuously. On top of that the whistling of the turbo has gotten louder. I had a look over the vacuum lines but apart form that I really dont know where to look for the problem as it ran fine yesterday (I haven't driven it hard because I'm waiting to get it tuned properly). Has anyone had any of these issues?

Sorry I sent you a text a while back and i got no reply. I only have the dump left $40 contact 0411579685

please take it all $50 pick up

I only use the car to get to work and thats only 10kms from home. I'll replace it for sure. I just paid alot of money to get this replaced and it doesn't (by look of it) so it just really annoys me thanks for the input!

Hi Just pulled off the manifold to turbo gasket and its doesn't look too good but I haven't seen too many of these gaskets before so please, you be the judge. Its the same on both sides. I ask this because I paid a whole lot of coin to replace my manifold and turbo gaskets just 2 months ago and I'm just not convinced they changed it at all unless this is what they look like after a couple months...... Thanks!

Camberwell.

Free blitz boost gauge with stand with dump and front pipe purchase. Bump

A sticky will end the repost woes I was keen on a 2.5 as well aiming for an optimum size for my power output, the response would definitely be greater at low rpms as well which is what I want as my car is only dedicated for the street and wont be pushing too far past a stock power output. I am not sure on the standard size but dumps are so cheap im sure you can just find an aftermarket one to suit your application. I guess for the turbo to perform to its potential the exhaust system you musnt have any bottle necks, even if the stock dump is 2.5 inches you will still find some performance gains in a quality aftermarket one because of mass manufacturing realities

Taken from reputable source cited from http://www.tercelref...ust_theory.html Most may already know this (Hence why, for a forum based on turbo cars I can't find much about exhaust size, back pressure or how to optimise an exhaust modification) but I thought I'd post it up for those who may find this informative. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Turbo Exhaust Theory I stumbled across this information on a forum. The following excerpts are from Jay Kavanaugh, a turbosystems engineer at Garret, responding to a thread on Impreza.net regarding exhaust design and exhaust theory: �Howdy, This thread was brought to my attention by a friend of mine in hopes of shedding some light on the issue of exhaust size selection for turbocharged vehicles. Most of the facts have been covered already. FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems. N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here. For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end. Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure. Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range. As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.� "As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12� included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles. A large "bellmouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above. If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow. Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all. Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems. Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure. Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc.� "Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however. There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge. As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length.� "Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars: Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is: (14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure o here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total. Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case). So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from. This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level. As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would. -----------------------------------------------------------

Hi Selling RB dump and front pipe. Reason for selling is I bought a once piece dump/front pipe so no longer need this one Dump pipe asking $50 Features ideal divorced wastegate flow Bung for oxygen sensor Stainless steel construction Custom front pipe asking $30 Has flexible pipe to absorb exhaust impact on low cars (instead of turbo absorbing the impact) Bung welded in for oxygen sensor/ or AFR sensor for gauge Stainless steel construction Has quite a few dings on the underside, WINNIE THE POOH PAJAMAS NOT INCLUDED! Pick up preferable, located 10km south east of Melbourne

Thats a good book thanks!

Core size and piping diameter I think has to match how much pressure your running that's what's affecting response. The larger core and piping will mean a slower velocity getting to the intake manifold and smaller core an piping will mean a faster velocity however, too small will affect power output as it may become a restriction. Read somewhere that the inlet/outlet size of the turbo should be the base size you should start with determining the piping and intercooler core size for optimal Don't ask me where I read that as I really don't remember, I read alot.

Deposit taken

how much for 'Dear John'? lol

If your looking for a cheap set then the generic ones on eBay. Otherwise I've got a quality Jap set for sale.

+1 for discopotato

Hypergear TR43 Gen2 Turbo to suit RB20/25 with everything to bolt into your RB20 - A/R .58 - 360 Journal bearing oil cooled - V-band dump - Rated at 480HP - Good for up to 20psi more info visit the Hypergear website: http://www.digi-hard...m/tr43gen2.html Turbo was purchased new by previous owner about a year ago. Its coming out of a R32 GTS4. Reason for sale is that my car is my daily I use for work and uni so I need something more practical (well as close as I can get to "practical") as I live in start stop traffic in the city. Runs at 14-15 psi, full boost comes on very strong by 4500 and holds through to red line. Includes: * R32 RB20 remapped ecu to support TR43 turbo, FMIC and exhaust * Steel oil feed to suit journal bearing (Instead of drilling out your stock restrictive oil line) <- Can provide a brand new braided oil line for a little extra * Cooling Pro brand compressor outlet elbow silicon hose to suit * Dump pipe with V-band clamp and oxygen sensor!! * Internal wastegate running at 1 BAR FOR THE LOT! Asking $500 ONO Bolt it all in and drive off. Here is a DIY courtesy of Stao from Hypergear I found on SAU: http://www.digi-hard...otos/atr43/diy/ Block off your turbo water lines as you wont need it with this oil cooled turbo so no extra heat is entering the block. The ECU can be found in the passenger side kick panel, take off your one and plug this one in. Of course, it may not be a perfect tune as you need to take into consideration of how well the sensors are functioning and other mods you may have etc etc, your tuner will explain but it will be drivable PLEASE NOTE: The item is still in the car and will be taken out within 2 weeks. I advertised it earlier so that people can come and see the turbo running and how it runs before making a decision. I will have pictures up once its out of the car Any questions please call me 0411579685 or SMS or PM If I don't answer please leave me a text instead and I will call or text you back

Alright. Thanks!!

Hi I've got a oil cooled turbo in my rb20 atm and I'm changing it into a stock r33 turbo. I've been sifting through google for a while now and still no direct hits I don't know where to connect the turbo water lines onto the engine as all the stock piping is removed. The rb20 service manual I have is quite vague on this but i think gives me some indication of where the outlet might be connected to. I just need confirmation of it all Looking at the turbo in its mounted position, I'm assuming the higher coolent hole on the turbo that is highest next to the oil inlet facing away form the manifold is the water line inlet on the turbo, and the lower coolent hole facing the manifold is the outlet. Refering to this link below, the water outlet from the turbo connected to the back of the engine next to the inlet manifold http://www.skylinesa...on/page__st__20 Where do I connect the water line inlet for the turbo on the engine? Thanks!

It looks like a factory chip but not too sure the markings you can see in this picture I was really hoping this ecu I bought was factory