GoHard

If you take the 'S' off the part number, thats the part number for the same plug but with the v-groove in it. Not sure what this groove does bit its supposed to be better. Same price.

I would have done a diagnostic check before i started re-soldering afm's etc. I would pressure test for leaks, if thats all good I would start looking at your fuel system. 1000km old fuel pump... Started doing in the last week... Id be checking that out.

The rubber is grooved and fits into the cut out of the timing cover both sides. Just checked, for rb25 cas bolts are 3.9-4.9nm and rb26 are 16-21nm... Thats a massive difference... Is that right?

Sorry mate didn't mean to be rude, your right. Why waste $$$ on multiple bending breaker bars for the same price the gun eh? Im just saying if you can get the bastard off with man power its a better feeling at the end of the day.

Link wont work... Search it yeah? I know its been covered before. I think gtr seats will fit, but not gtt Just seen you said rear seats... Im not sure about the rears...

^ +1 No machine can give the same pleasure as a good ol fashoned hand job

I had a squeeling start up from power steering fluid leaking onto power steering belt. Check all aux belts.

Where is that coil plugged in?

They go out, and spitfires go in

So whos gonna be the hero that shoots the lying b*tch? Ill take my hat off. Go on. I know you want to. I'm talking to YOU

Got mine from isc in the traders section. No probs yet? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/216102-isc-52mm-radiators/

You know... This has me curious, but. I just put a new engine in, and despite the last engine down lacking compression it never done it. Im using same ecu and everything, its just the engine thats changed. It must be something... Might check all the earth points

Yeah mine does that too. Keen to know. Missing or lean pops

Since he hasnt replied im gonna hijack. Lets say his popping was intermittant, every now and then? Seen something about lean pops?

Did you mean to answer your own question?

Hey Steve, Mate I hate to say it... But check out your oil pump. Mechanics taken all my belts off, still there. Taken off timing belt and swapped pullys etc. Still there. Hes put a screwdriver where the oil pump would be? and is certain its the oil pump. He was blown away but swears it must be gears rubbing on the backplate or something. Oil pressure seems fine. Im fkn fuming because ive only had this engine in for aprox 600km and its causing me so much problems. I hope the oil pump is not your prob, but sounds VERY similar so check it out. Good luck to you Sir.

Hey mate, no luck. I couldn't be f'd taking off all the belts, the power steering belt felt a bit loose so I gave it a tweak but nothing. I am pretty sure its coming from the timing train somewhere. Belt rub, pully or bearing. I have just had my timing belt done but like... 500km ago and its been quiet up till I take off the exhaust manifold . Makes me think its something I have done, but ummmm... Didn't work near that area. Ive booked my car Wednesday to get it checked out. Just had a new engine dumped in so these sorta things have me on my toes. Ill let you know what he comes up with. I am sure you have the same prob as mine, when car is cold its LOUD. Sound starts about 5 secs after running, slowly goes away after a few mins, will come back with minor revs till that slowley goes away and then only does it at high rpm.

Did you find out what the noise is? Mine started the same noise from what looks the same place. Will be taking belts off one by one this weekend. Mine dont start making the sound until about 5-10 seconds after start up, then slowwwwly gets quieter and quieter. Similar?

Hey thanks guys, I would really like to get this done as its only been on the road one day after being off the road for 2 weeks! I cant believe it! But anyway, Im located wollongong. Cheerz

Yo, after a clutch fan as mine has a crack. R33 gtst. Only need the blades (I think) but will still take hub/blades if got to. Cheers

Justin, johnathon... Thank you. Thank you so much. A washer under the bracket of both bolts brings it closed perfectly! Is this safe? There isn't much surface area for the bracket to sit on in the first place so I dont see why not. This has been done before?

What I really need is a washer on the swing valve to shim it, but there is no way of taking it apart to get a washer in there. Circlip maybe but thats worth even more 's

Hmm. Guess so. Rekon this would have been contributing to the flickering boost or that more likely have been the leaking exhaust manifold? Thanks guys

Would I be correct in saying I cant adjust the actuator rod? Cant see a way? Its a series 2 r33 fyi

Yeah mate the whole assembly is stiff as. Its just that circular disk that sits a bit loose. See in the pic, i can grab onto the shaft (dead centre of disc) and it feels like very minute shaft play. I can spin it from there.