megzz

OK, well I'm up for it.

in

will you sell the datalogit on its own? I already have a PFC

Looks the goods, what software do you use with it. FC Tune?

53 pages in 2.5 hours straight without blinking - very good/motivating read mate Question, What killed your built rb26? The pic you posted doesn't load anymore

Last year I brought a r31 s3 Silhouette for a cheap all round street/drifter/drag and circuit car. My intentions were not to chase big power and quick lap times but just to have a bit of fun Mods: rb25/30 R33 5 Speed Gearbox Powerfc eBoost 2 full spool with 4:11 hydro handbrake full 3Inch exhaust FMIC S13 BC coil overs R33 Front brakes Walbro Fuel pump WRX seats engine bay tidied up I did a track day at marulan. It had cheap bob jane tyres on it and the suspension set for drifting so it was very tail happy but I had a ball and it left a smile on face for a week After finding out that stock rb25 turbos are prone to break, i was looking to replace my turbo so i decided to upgraded to a Hypergear Atr43 G3. While I was at it I modified the plenum and went Q45 throttle Body Tuned by Unigroup it made 250kw atw on 20 psi which was a bit low but was still good fun. 2 weeks after i went EC on Wednesday night. Pulled a 13.5 with a 60' of 2.5 (no launch) I was having big blow by issues and on my 3rd run I could see oil poring out the gap between the bonnet and quarter panel - The dip stick was blown out and from then on the car was burning oil. Compression test revealed Piston #2 had low compression - I think I spent too much time in the Forced Induction thread instead of the events section Wishing I just left the standard turbo on I was deciding whether I should fix it just part it out as I just got the car back on the road after 6 months, I was over having a car that spent more time off then on the road. I decided to pull the engine out and crack it out to see exactly what happened. Then I noticed that it wasn't a 30/25. just a std 25 which explains why it only made 250kw So I carried on pulling it down and #2 had cracked oil glands I decided to get it running again with the main focus being reliability not power so I took the engine to Penninsular engines to get: Head service only machine & balance of the block and crank Fit crank collar etc I'll be fitting forged rods and pistons while keeping the stock oil pump. I will be fitting 1x blank and 1x 1.5mm restrictors which will hopefully will sort the oil issues out. I should getting it back unassembled early Jan to start bolting it together

bump

As title states, I am after the USB/datalogit cable for an rb25 PowerFC. I am located in Sydney.

Hey Guys, Will this be happening any time soon?

bump

Hey Mate, PM me if you are you willing to part out the engine. I ama fter a shock block (bottom end)

agreed

how much do you want for the 30?

Hi Guys, I got some misc parts lying around. R31 rb30 ECU AFM ECU $30 AFM $20 Non branded turbo timer $20 R33DET ECU $60 I am located in Sydney Will ship any of the parts Australia wide for $10.

we'll I'm up for a rebuild any way so if I went for a 30L, judging by the photo do you think I would get away with the current piping with the extra height of the 30?

Now that you mention it I can see some machine marks on the right on the edge of stamp plate Isn't there an oil gallary difference between the 2 blocks as well Do these numbers mean anything

hmmm. but have a look at this 30\25 http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod58.htm unless they just used a photo of a 25

Here you go, now the engine is out

assuming it has a standard rb25 turbo fitted?

its got me stumbled - as in it might not be a 30 bottom end. but engine numbers don't lie.

Yep. because that's what came off so I purchased another genuine Nissan RB25 belt and replaced it

Hey Guys, I brought a running Rb30/25 in an r31 last year and i just did a waterpump + timing belt kit on it and I noticed that it is running a standard 147tooth RB25 belt. In all my research online i have never heard of anyone being able to run an rb25 belt. The block is stamped RB30 so I know i didn't get ripped. But though the car was running fine I am wondering if will cause any log term issues like this? Both idler and tensioner sit below the waterpump.

After a working forged/built rb30 bottom end but I will consider stock as well. I am located in Sydney. Please PM with the following details Compression ratio Internals (if not stock) kms your location asking price

bump

Would you sell the just the block itself? If so how much would you want for it?