CabbageMS

Thanks Jiffo. I'm only aiming for circa 420-440hp, basically just under the injector/maf limit. I'll give that a try then. I did actually remove the. Boost restrictor from the marked pipe months ago, but it made no difference. I replaced the stock boost solenoid with a section of straight through pipe though and that took boost to about a bar. I'm actually a little confused how putting a straight bit of pipe (6mm bore) in place of the boost solenoid didn't send me into massive boost as surely most of the pressure going to the actuators would have leaked out of there?

I've followed the line, it's only got a short section of rubber, rest is hardline. I'll google howtos but I'm guessing there's no easy way!

Sorry I didn't make that particularly clear. It is an r32 gtr. It looks like I could have a go from underneath, just a bit of a shitter for access is all. Where do most people plumb into for ebc/mbc?

Looked at fitting manual boost control today but the signal line to the actuators comes right out under the back of the plenum, goes into a hard line and wraps round the back of the head. My question is, is there an easy point at which to intercept that line before it gets to the actuators, preferably rubber hose? The hose coming out from under the plenum looks just about unreachable with the engine in situ. Maybe if I took the fuel rail off?

Well I left the plugs out for an hour and cleaned them up a bit, also turned the motor over with no plugs in to blow out any residual fuel. Didn't make any difference though. Also would be a bit weird if all 6 plugs suddenly degraded to the point of it cutting out while running though? I guess it's feasible that the second ignition amp I tried (which was second hand) was duff to, is there an easy way to test them?

Hey all. Question time! A few weeks ago I was merrily driving along when all of a sudden, mid corner and off boost, the engine cut out. Attempted to restart the car, but it wouldn't have it, even jumping it off another car. The situation: The engine turns over on the starter motor and nothing is obviously mechanically knackered. Connections on the CAS and the ignition amp have been checked. A new coilpack loom has been put in. A different ignition amp has been tried. I've determined there is a spark although it looks kind of yellowy-orange rather than the usual crisp blue colour. Fuel pump is making priming noise when ignition is turned on and I've checked fuel pressure at the rail and it's in spec. Nissan Datascan shows an RPM reading when engine being turned over, and injectors can be heard clicking.. There is definitely fuel in the tank, over half a tank full. After a certain amount of time attempting to start the car, you can smell fuel emanating from the exhaust. The car sort of sounds like it will fire the first time it's turned over (sort of like there's partial/weak combustion), but then nothing. It sounds like the car has compression (engine is turning over at normal speed) although I haven't checked it on every cylinder yet. On Nissan Datascan the water temp sensor displayed zero degrees, so I replaced that and it now reads 8 degrees, which sounds more realistic. Does anything immediately come to mind to people?

I have an almost identical situation to this. I'll start my own thread but I'm very interested in the outcome of this.

Hey all, Ok I have a 1991 R32 GTR. It has detonated since i picked it up in UK. It is unmodified except for a decat pipe. It has detonation. Looking at the pistons, 4 is pitted and 6 is mildly pitted. When I changed to denso plugs 4th cylinder took a tip off. Important info: It runs factory boost with restrictor. Brand new coil packs (standard) A/F ratio about 11/1 full boost (measured with innovate wideband LC-1. Ignition timing set to 20o BTDC using HT lead between coil pack and plug on first cylinder New cambelt Completely unmodified engine Cleaned and flowed fuel injectors Fuel pressure tested and Ok. Manifold checked and not leaking boost around 6-7 psi. stock ecu, unchipped. new ignition amp (standard) Fuelled on super unleaded. Any ideas???

Sorry for digging this up but is there a similar system for the front suspension? I can't seem to find anything in the manual that suggests the front susp can be adjusted for camber?

Hey dude, did you ever find the answer to this? I have exactly the same situ except mine boosts just above the mark between 0 and +7 on the boost gauge. So slightly more boost than you according to the gauge but it didnt change when I removed my boost restrictor. Again no aftermarket boost control.