Steve

Hippy, sorry for all the whoring:( Back on track - get your car on a dyno you tigh arse:p Also, if you want to check base timing, I have a timing light you can borrow.

Well the reason people say to do the run in 1:1 gear is that power is a function of torque and rpm. Imangine if you use a lower gear, the mechanical advantage will be higher, therefore the torque will be higher, giving a higher power figure. That is until you get to peak power, which will read the same, as the wheel speed is alot slower for the same rpm (as in a higher gear) but as the torque is higher due to mechanical advantage, the difference is cancelled out. My understanding anyways, and I do have the 3rd gear and 4th gear dynos with the same power to prove the theory:)

Looks like he did a 2nd gear run too. the fuel leaning out is taking foot off pedal. strutto, if that was fully stock (which it appears) that dyno shows a nice healthy engine - ripe for the modding:) hippy, it appears to me that street tuning is something that takes a bit of experience. Not too many tuners around these days that do it anymore, infact I dare you to tell me the name of one in Adelaide:) The road side of things is good for off boost and driveability, but you need to get the car on a dyno for a final trim and to make sure everything is ok. Also, just do be careful you dont go crazy and pull too much fuel, just because you dont have a huge amount of mods, doenst mean you cant smash ring lands if you pull too much fuel.

Pretty sure the hangers are in different spots.

Hmm, doesnt sound right. I have seen stock ecu, stock ignighters with irridium plugs (I 'think' they were gapped at 0.8) running 18lbs with no probs to 8200 redline. I have run up to 1.5 bar on R33 with stock ignighters on iridium gapped at 0.8 no probs. Have you taken care of fuel? 16psi isnt really huge boost. It may be worth dropping Clint32 a pm, I am 99% sure he runs more than 16psi on his R32.

Pirtek or enzed, both should be able to sort it for you.

It can be, but depends on how loud it is, and how loud exhaust etc is. Some people just dont seem to be able to hear it either. Has a metalic sort of ticking noise, and is pretty fast - pinging as the word suggests is a dull short sort of ping.

Good to hear your behind the wheel again. The reason is probably feels more responsive is the fact that you have compression on all 6 cylinders:p

hippy, its because he keeps logging on to look at his own photos:D

5 cars, almost time to apply for a dealers liscence:). Good luck with the GTR, it looked very, very tidy when I saw it, perhaps another entrant for the SAU SA autosalon stand? Any ideas on whos powerup you will be using for the XR6 yet? I have heard 'rumours' of 11 sec cars getting around on the east coast with a few bolt ons. Martin, with an extra 90rwkw, why does the XR6 run slower? Must be alot more to it than a 150kg and 0.14 60 foot times, with the disparity in ETs, it would appear something else isnt right. Also, as the holden has IRS it would be an advantage to the ford?

Good to hear santa will be kind:) That must make Mick, Mark and Tyson elves:p Huge turbo going on the drag car???? I thought the one going on your street car was bloody huge! (saw you and it at tilbrooks the other day - I was wearing white) Where do you expect the street turbo to start making boost?

Joel, I have found they tend they start to feel more responsive, rev easier and pull harder, but I have only run in 2 engines, and it could be a case of wishful thinking. Then again, I rode my brothers new bike (picked it up), then again in a couple of months and it definately felt alot more responsive.

If you have a look at my avatar, the wheel you can see (just) is the compressor wheel.

Just realised, I dont have the noise or the stickers - not really too low, still got the big exhaust and body kit - I am farked Would look funny getting out of a car and it raising up 3 inches. the hydraulic sus started in the US for exactly that reason. I read a bit on some of the law in the US, it appears that a car can be lowered as long as no part of the car touches the road when the tyres are deflated (california anyways).

Lozza, I dont think so. A good correctly adjusted BOV reduces lag - period. The better the BOV, the less the lag (between changes) It is alot quicker to repressurise the pipework, than to repressurise the pipework AND spool the turbo up again. The pop is from fuel being delivered after xxx amount of air was measured by the AFM, but not all the air being there to assist in combustion, and unburnt fuel travelling down the exhaust system. It happened less when I had an aftermarket BOV fitted, and completely dissapeared when I had a power fc fitted. Just remeber also, if a bov doesnt lift early enough (eg, improperly adjusted/overtensioned),the air that reverts through the turbo can be measured again as it goes out of the AFM the wrong way, causing more fuel again to be delivered to the exhaust - this is one of the tricks to achieving large flames out of your exhaust - not overly good for the turbo though:) My understanding anyways.

SKYLINED yes but not as likely, 9krpm, appologies also - at least you found someone who can tune your ECU. Out of interest, how is your getting the car complied going? Should approach CAPA and see if they want to finish the developement for approval so they can sell the kits. I have actually been told it costs them in the vacinity of 50K to get one of their setups sorted and approved.

Joel, my wife told me a cop she spoke to reffered to skylines as targets, and went on to say he will always pull them over cos he knows he can always get a defect.

So you are saying it decreases lag between changes (something I noticed myself) but causes the car to bog because of the extra fuel, ie, that momentary overfuelling? If it is over fuelling that much, something is very, very wrong.

Bl4cK32, they got out of it through Road Traffic Act 1961, para 163K (from memory) Limitation of Liability. It states that the police, and Regency have no liability for any action as long as they believe they were doing the right thing. As I said, the info was hearsay through a contact at the AGs office and one of the engineers I have spoken to.

First I would suggest you do what blind elk suggests, swap the coil packs, they may produce a spark, but how strong? also, have you checked for earth on the coil pack and leads, it could be that they are only earthing when they are in situ, just giving the impression that all is fine when you pull them to check. another thing you can try, pull the plug on no1, and disconnect the ignighter - crank the car over and check for fuel smell.

Why change BOV? just because someone has a stock BOV, does that mean its 'best' - I think not. I know alot of people have only had troubles with BOVs, but I have only had good results, no negatives at all. IMHO most of the problems associated with aftermarket BOVs is related to poor adjustment or faulty second hand units. For everyone who has had a bad experience with a BOV, someone has had good, so why not chase the good, and if you get bad, find out what you are doing wrong, then you can see the difference a properly fitted, adjusted and working BOV makes.

Good to hear you got a nice result, make sure you post up a dyno, and please try turning up the boost to around 1.5bar for a dyno run:). If they are typical HKS turbos, they start to go crazy above 1.2 bar - fun stuff.

Type R is a pretty big BOV, rated at 600hp or there abouts. I have one plumbed back on an R33 GTS. they dont make adaptors for R33 GTS, only GTR, so the pipework is all custom - it would be worth checking if an adaptor is available for your 1JZ. Location usually as close as possible to the throttle body, and of course if you want to plumb it back, it needs to return before the turbo and after the AFM. Once again, you will be up for custom fabrication. I dont know why your sisters BOV is loud, mine is pretty quiet, you can only just hear it, but then again, my pod is fully enclosed. It most likely will be louder than the stock BOV, but not alot. Anther option that would be cheaper is the Trust Type S, about 2/3rds the size of the type R, but still a good bov that plumbs back. I am pretty sure they make adaptors for most cars, and as the outlet is a bit smaller, it would be easier to plumb in using the existing BOV return line.

WLD747, I think you got a farked BOV. If they are not adjusted properly, or maintained properly, yes they will be worse. I bought mine new and only noticed improvement. Yes it was a little more rich as it didnt plumb back, but no where near what some people report (backfiring etc). A poor BOV, be it stock or aftermarket, will leak boost and can cause major dramas with idle and AF ratios.

I would suggest you go back to the start. Remove the bleed valve and replumb everything to stock. Take your car for a thrash and see how it goes. If all is ok, reinstall the bleed before the Wastegate. With the bleed valve fully shut (not bleeding) all the boost pressure should pass through and you will get stock boost again. I can only suggest that if you shut off the bleed fully, and you are still getting unlimited boost, that the fault is not the bleed valve. Bleedvalves are so basic in their design and operation, that, apart from spiking, they are virtually fail and fool proof.