Steve

I can only suggest trying someone elses bleed valve, and check and double check every join on your pipework. Other than that, see if you can get a vacuum test done - to rule out any vacuum leaks. Also, check the lines to the bleed valve and bleed to wastegate. I have some spare nice new Trust vacuum line that is yours if you want to give it a try. Or if you want to spend money, the Outlaw speed shop has some killer stuff - like the Jap line, not the soft stuff that is pretty common. It is pretty easy to damage, esp if it is the soft silicone type - not the good jap stuff. Also, have you done the unichip thing yet?

Yeah, comeon Miss*33, your not fooling anyone you know:)

Anybody out there help out? I seem to be having trouble attaching images to posts with this new format forum. Can anybody provide me with an idiots guide to imbedding images in posts? thanks heaps in advance Steve

Matt, I have just had a HKS 1.6mm gasket done, CR 8.6:1 - which is similar to RB26 CR. Off boost response is not noticeably different. I did it purely so that I could turn the boost up to 1.5 bar + and still have a safety margin. It works on the RB26.

I think the prices will rise slightly, esp as the new RAWS scheme is pretty expensive, and only stock cars can be complied. Also, alot fewer cars are being sold now, as not too many have been complied under the new scheme. If you are having probs with the insurance company, just send in a copy of a few adds from the newspapers, or something like HPI wich have a few car trader adds.

Clutch, Z32 AFM EDIT: and you will have to think about pipework to/from manifold, AFM and cooler, plus oil and water lines for turbo. For drift, seriously consider an oil cooler too.

Gotta ask, how the f*ck do you imbed images in your posts? Cant seem to attach images like the old format.

OK, and Miss*33, a little bitch fighting is ok, sometimes, if the mood is right, and hippy is watching....

Burnout: Spinning the back wheels (or all 4 if 4wd). Good for warming up tyres before doing a 1/4 mile run, also very impressive when they are 200m long and done with no brakes - such as TRY09 doing a 1/4 mile run:D Inspection: Somewhere like SST, or I believe Lumpy and GTR Ken have just set up a workshop in the west (check the WA forum)- either would from what I know, be more than capable of telling you whether the car is a dog or not.

Please, please, I'm not like that:(

Clint, ring up D1 and ask to speak to Rob, he had his guards pumped about 2 inches on each side, killer job. he also had his guards rolled - he told me a mate of his did it.

Hi xsoulx, welcome to aust and SAU. I highly recommend you go out and test drive a few cars. At the end of the day, what one person thinks is awesome, another may think is average. Rearwheel drive: only the back wheels are driven by the engine fourwheeldrive: all 4 wheels are driven. with the attesa (nissan 4wd system) they are not constant 4wd, like the subaru are. the 4wd comes on when slip is noticed on the back wheels by a computer. 4wd generally will mean you can get off the mark quicker when taking off, also gives you a pretty big advantage in the wet, and was where the GTRs really came home when they competed in the touring car championships here is aust. Skylines are great cars for all people. As with all people who are just starting to drive, know your limits, and dont think you are Micheal schumaker just because you have got your liscence for a few months and you should be fine. Its the driver that makes a car dangerous, not the car. As for buying, make sure you get the car checked out thoroughly before you put a deposit down if you are buying private, and if you are buying from a yard, make sure they have aftersales backup and service. You get more car for less when you buy private, but you can get good backup and piece of mind from business - they choice is yours.

I am sure Matt will give you a free service:p

Lachlan, I have dealt with both, but only purchased from Greenline. Greenline have to get parts from the manufacturer, and if they are available, they are pretty quick, ie 1 week. the longest Ihave had to wait is 3 weeks. you can ask about availability when you e-mail them. Greenline were very helpful with product information, and even researched parts without my asking - point in note, I asked for a price for a Trust type R BOV, and they new I had a GTSt, they e-mailed back with the cost but also a warning that the bov is for GTR. I found them very helpful, good presales and aftersales service. Nengun, I wanted some info on second hand parts. He took some time replying to my e-mail, but didnt answer all my questions (about power fc pro), so I resent. He could not answer my questions, nor direct me to where I could find out info on the product, his replies were very short and what I consider abrupt. He gave me the impression that he didnt have much time to spend with customer service. so I have been spending my money elsewhere. Just my experiences, and the opinions expressed are my own. I know some people have had good results with Nengun, and I am sure if you knew what you wanted and just order from him, the whole process would be alot quicker and easier than if you require product info. Just gotta throw in here, have a look at www.fvej.co.jp (or www.fvej.com) there is an expat aussie working for them, he has got me the best deal on second hand parts EVER, 40mm HKS wastegate second hand in near new condition for $290 delivered is one example. Definately worth a try - he doesnt get bargains all the time, but he has second hand (and new) suppliers all over Japan, and does do some killer deals - did I ever tell you how much my new HKS 3037 turbo was from him?

no one got the joke about the job as head waiter sucking..... Miss 33, sorry if I offended, and a belated welcome to the forums. No one meant to offend, its all pretty friendly in here, and I suppose we overstepped the mark cos we dont know you. dont be put off though, everyone is very friendly here:) Except hippy who likes bitch fighting:p

Dean, it sounds right. how close is the take off for the boost pressure to the turbo? sounds like where you have the boost line coming, there is a bit of turbulance in the intercooler piping. This is a guess:) so dont hang me if I am wrong. but is based upon the fact that before you didnt have any probs, and if you have a good (unvarying) supply of boost pressure to the wastegate, it 'should' control it properly. Try and get the boost pressure line from as close as possible to he compressor outlet - some turbos actually have the boost coming from the outlet before the compressed air leaves the turbo. either that or keep it away from pipe bends.

Posted this in your other thread, but are they to suit Z32 or Z31?

Bosch 300xz AFMs - are these Z32 or Z31?

Hmm, cant be a she-male, lists occupation as Head waitress, if shemale it would be Head waiter. I hope the moneys good cos the job would suck:D:D:D god I crack me up sometimes:p

NitRaTe, how much do the compliance plates cost, and how much is it to get an evidence pack under the new RAWS scheme, and would you be able to privately import a car and get it complied by other than a RAWS approved compliance place, if it is less than 15 YO? I know that you are still required to make the cars meet the standard that apply to cars through the RAWS scheme, but as it is outside the scheme, there is alot less evidance required, and you dont have to have govt approval to comply the vehicle - alot less red tape, and middle men, means alot less $$$$. If I am completely out of left field, please let me know what the truth of the matter is, cos this is just my understanding/personal assessment.

when 15 years old, the cars no longer need to be 'complianced', fitting plates, etc, etc - just make sure certain things like seat belts are fitted, ULP fuel filler, intrusion bars, etc then get the car registered.

Hippy, dont be scared:) its easy. Just cut the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator, and put the valve in line with the solenoid. Then unplug the factory solenoid. The factory solenoid is a type of bleed valve, when the revs hit 5000, it bleeds off enough air for 2psi extra boost. The valve you are fitting, just allows a small amount of air (boost pressure) to escape to atmosphere, and therefore not being used to actuate the wastegate. simple. To adjust, wind the bleed vavle all the way SHUT, so all boost pressure is going to the wastegate, then back off 1/2 turn. Take for a spin, then repeat until you have the desired boost pressure, recommend not going over 10-11 psi with stock cooler.

No probs, like I posted, I didnt want to give the impression that you were, so sorry if I did. As I said before, although I havent dealt with you personally, plenty of people have, and I havent heard a bad word - which speaks volumes for your integrity:) Just trying to warn amosite not to buy the cheapest turbo, cos they cost more in the long run - alot more

Have you plumbed NC or NO (from the soleniod)? Also, did you remove the plastic bung in the spare (NC) hole of the solenoid. Generally with boost controllers or map sensors, try and plumb them as close to the source of boost as possible, mine was running from the crossover pipe for the intake, which worked ok, but you will need to drill a hole and fit a hose tail connector. do you have an english manual? If not, the apex usa site has a downloadable PDF.

sorry, back on topic - this is a real shame, as Simon had already bought the full RAWS package to start complying under the new scheme, and was getting ready to get permits to import the R33. On an upside, as Boost King points out, at least now the price wont continue to drop for imports - and hopefully modded cars will start to better reflect their true worth (cost to build). that is of course, until they are 15 years old. Just had a thought, maybe the govt only wants OLD cars on the road - yep thats gotta be it:)