Steve

Phantom, pretty sure the wolf P&P for R33 does not batch. Better driver? wouldnt that refer to the response time?

Ditto Tony, Buy a trust plenum for around 1200 with an adaptor for stock TB and all the bits you need, everything fits and it comes with all boltage, pipes etc Yeah its a bit more expensive, but everything works and no guesswork. Mind you if you had the know how and facility to do it yourself - then it would be a different proposition

No, that sounds bloody excellent. What cost to modify the plenum for TB and cut and shut to runners?

JimX the big problem with AFMs is that you can only tune at one boost pressure after you have reached max voltage. If you have 5.1V at 0.8 bar, then tune the car at 1.2bar, when (if)you turn the boost down the ecu doesnt know the difference between 1.2bar and 0.8 bar or anywhere inbetween, so it will keep fueling at 1.2bar - the problems there are pretty obvious.

Shorter runners I would have thought it would affect mid range everything else being equal. Harder to say when you change the design of the plenum and also the configuration of the throttle body. Short runners are better for top end - from what I have read anyhow. Nice idea though, using the rb26 plenum - I think by the time you figure in cost though (probably a dime a dozen in Jap), it may be cheaper to just go trust plenum as everything bolts on and it comes with all the boltage, pipes etc and a nice big red greddy sticker for the top (gotta love the rice:))

Different story here - before it was 400rwhp with good boost under 4k agree with rbs13 go rb25 g.box - tough as nails also, I would suggest something like an OS Giken twin plate - nice take up and will easily hold 400rwhp. Turbo - Something like a HKS 3037, 3040 or garrett GT30 or GT35R, also as suggested T67 (but will be a bit more laggy). Something like a 3037S 56T with a 0.73 turbine AR, around 1.5-1.7bar bar(use a 0.87housing if you dont want to have to use that much boost pressure, but from the sounds of your build up the engine wont have a problem) and you will have 400, or if you think you may want to try and get a few more ponies out for dyno comps, try a HKS 3040, but you will probably find it a bit more laggy, maybe another 500+rpm. Some suggestions anyways.

Isnt the standard gauge 7 (x100mmHg) which = 13.5psi? I know the R33 ones are and I always assumed (very dangerous sometimes) the R32 was the same.

Sorry, having a bit of a barry tonight:(

Where do you get buyers paying that sort of money for RB25 bottom ends? Do you know any body that wants to buy some:D - whole RB25s sell for 2k privately

Good points sydneykid. But I would really love to see a sr20 or rb20 spool up a turbo to useable boost before 4000rpm and will comfortably make 400rwhp - and a T67 is a pretty big turbo I would even more so love to see that particular turbo make useable boost under 4k on an Rb20 - or even an RB25 whilst still using a turbine housing that wouldnt choke it before 400rwhp.

And how many of these make good boost (useable) under 4krpm? Its all good if you want to do cams, manifold cam gears, port etc but it will still be battling to make it under 4k. 1.5bar on a t67? now where up to 5k+rpm. Its all good if you dont mind winding the rev limit skyward, but I do believe the SRs are a bit better suited to this, I wouldnt like to take a stock RB20 much past 8k for too long or too often.

B-Man, I have a friend who is very close friends of the guy who runs Signal in Osaka - cant remeber his name off the top of my head sorry. I was told this yesterday (my friend came back from a trip to Japan) that he was in stiches when he was told about guys trying to use the stock runners and bolting on a new plenum chamber to increase performance, as it is according to him the stock runners pose restriction, not the plenum chamber itself - interesting.

There are two trains of thought on driveline loss. One that it is a percentage of the engine figure, another that it is pretty close to a fixed amount. the fixed amount theory sits alot better with me, for example if a car is making 1000rwkw (which has been done), the percentage theory means a driveline loss of 200 - 280kw - that is monserous amounts of heat - probably enough heat to melt any driveline. Also, I cant get around frictional losses varying directly with the power being applied - it just doesnt add up - it would also follow that if a car was making 100kw at the engine, that the driveline loss would only be 20-28kw?? Sure friction accounts for an increase in loss, but that much?

Yeah, around 1 bar at 3000rpm. I have gone for a larger turbine housing, 0.87 up from 0.61 (sitting waiting to be fitted) so it will probably add around 500rpm to spool up but should give me better top end. I am also fitting cams and cam gear, but I believe it wont go too far as I am also dropping the compression to 8.6:1 which is pretty close to the RB20 CR.

Benm, an 17x8 will take a 245 without a problem, could probably squeeze a 255 on there too. The guys that sold me my wheels tried to convince me to put 245 or 255 on my 17x8s to match the 255 on my 17x9s Anyway, thought it might help. Nice wheels by the way, wish I had a spare $1600 as that is a great price for them - I need a spare set of rims (or at least 2) for drift:)

Perhaps it would be more accurate for the pedantic amongst us to say its P&P, and you can run from map if you so wish - which of course isnt available from the garden variety power fc

Yeah, big ask for an RB20. Expect a fair bit of lag, I think 4000rpm might be a bit unlikely, probably closer to 4500+. You have to consider that with making power out of a turbo - if you want alot at the top, it will cost you down low. The sooner a turbo spools, the more back pressure you will have at higher revs which in turn kills power through reversion of exhaust gasses, poorer cylinder scavenging and the resultant increase in detonation requiring less ignition timing. The other problem you 'may' exrerience is if you drop the turbine housing down too small, the turbo will spool up too quick, producing a greater flow of air than the engine can use - this will cause compressor surge where the air reverts through the compressor and robs you of more power - also not good. Bottom line, unless you are building a drag car with close ratio gear box (you will need to replace the rb20box as it will have died long before 400rwhp), you would be much better with something that comes on boost a bit earlier and gives a strong midrange and a reasonable top end. The HKS2835, AX53B70, T518Z or similar would be my choices. Good response and wont run out of puff too soon.

rnb168, perhaps you should be a bit more careful about what you post up here. If word catches on that you are selling this shit on the SAU forum, it could cause huge dramas from a legal perspective.

What engine?

Time to get your diff shimmed up there Joel:)

Benm, even when I was making around 185rwkw, my clutch fried and I upgraded - then I was getting wheelspin in second gear accellerating about half throttle with anything under 1/4 tank of petrol, not using the clutch but roll on. In first it spun the wheels anywhere in that gear if I flattened it. This was on $420 dollar (each) 255 rubber, ie the revspecs, which are about the best tyre goodyear do rated just below an R series tyre. Maybe your clutch isnt quite gripping the way it should, as I believe that my circumstances are pretty normal for that sort of power? I also have Ohlins coilovers, on about the mid setting, definately not kidney jarring, and pineapples - although I have now included solid cradle bushes as well to help increase the traction.

If you are serious about building a big hp car, I would only suggest that you go out and buy a book called Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Perfect if you are new to the world of forced induction. You will be able to ask the right questions and have a pretty good idea of when someone is pulling your leg. Just consider too that even circuit cars dont make this much power as it is too much for them, so it would be a waste of time on anything but probably a drag strip.

Hmm, definately I think you need to get the details of the officers who attended - some issues to consider: a. they 'forgot' to get the details of the other driver - is this dereliction of duty? cant be right - complain to your local MP (I am serious) What would happen to you if you forgot to do your job and someone else was disadvantaged? Perhaps financial reparations would be in order? I am not sure if you can take action against individual members of the police force or the department in general but there is no excuse for this one. b. who said you were doing 70 in a 50? You didnt, and I take it this was from the same guy who didnt bother, or lost the details of the other guy? where is the credibility of a guy who cant do his job properly? I dont think it would stand up in court esp as you must have been suffering from shock and would not have been 100% coherent. Please, please, just report it to your local MP - they can move mountains and love stirring shit for local voting, law abiding citizens:)

Dont feel bad about having not having an R33 - your R32 is very nice and puts alot of 33's to shame:)

Joel, I have only spun up to forth, that was with about 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, so just accelerating gently, dont want to check 5th as I am scared it will destroy the gear - Pretty scarry when in traffic at around 90-100kmh and the back end is trying to overtake the rest of the car:) also with 255 goodyear revspecs on the rear and a decent wheel alignment and traction bushes so a reasonably grippy setup.