Steve

Hmmm Brides, so where can I get some of those cheap?

Bl4cK32, sell the AVCR, and recoupe some of the cost:) I spoke to Mildrens a few months ago, they said they didnt know much about the Wolf for R33, and to check with SST! Hopefully they have it sorted now. And I just thought of a really good reason to buy wolf - one that everyone has missed, Sequential Idle - sounds tuff as hell (really, really tuff), and it even cools the engine:)

Well if nothing else I suppose your TS is a good indication of how much difference a driver with experience can make (assuming that was with the same power?) I hear what you are saying, but at the end of the day isnt it Rob's choice? its his car.

I could argue that people use the power in different ways, I am sure you dont drive your car like its on a strip every time you leave a standing start, or like its on a circuit in between ALL the time. But the best reason I can think of is that he knows what the car is capable of, and has a goal to aspire to, ie, a time to get to so he knows he's using the cars potential. I have never taken my car down the strip, probably never will, doesnt mean I dont enjoy driving it:)

Boost isnt really the issue, airflow is. A big turbo will flow alot more air at lower boost than a smaller turbo at a higher boost - probably more appropriate to ask what sort of power can be made. I know of several RB25s making over 250rwkw with big fuel pump and adj fuel pressure reg, without running out of injector duty.

Another thing that will make a big difference is the width of the power band, Rob said he was dropping off boost - whether it be due to the power band not being wide enough to keep the car on boost or Rob just being a bit shy - will make a huge difference. Also weight makes a big difference, time taken to change gears.. the list goes on - All will have varying effects on the TS - add them all together and you will have unrepresentative results. Bottom line though, well all see when Rob lets someone like Rev210 or Steve SST borrow it for a night at the plex.....

Sorry Paul, getting a bit distracted:( So how does it feel to be on the other end of post whoring:D

Dont know a thing about the UAS stuff, personally I find it a bit expesive. CAI, why not do the usual and get some 4" pipe and make a feed that comes in underneath the pods? Then just either a partition or a box. If you are willing to spend the sort of mony UAS are asking, why not get a custom box made - or have a go your self? As for filters, I would imagine that it would be easier to buy the 150mm replacements, otherwise you may find yourself cutting down the 200's, which also would not be difficult to do. Just trace around the old filter and get into it with the scissors:) It is a good idea to replace them regularly though, as believe it or not, I have seen damage to the compressor wheels of turbos that was attributed to the filter foam degrading and going through the compressor - which means it also sent through the cooler and into the engine.

Oh, and please dont think I am having a go at Wolf, from the sounds it is a bloody awesome ECU and goes alot further than the power fc - but I have spoken to some people in SA, including the rep, and they either didnt know much about the ecu, or didnt want to touch it. If I still lived in the west, there would probably be a power fc for sale;) Maybe some people here in SA should organise a group buy and get Steve to come over to fit, set up and tune them???? Not as silly as it sounds. If there were people interested, I would definately be looking at an upgrade - but I want a knock sensor!

Air temp comp goes some way, better than the power fc in that regard, but as Paul says, I just want that added comfort - other than dud fuel, you could get fouled plugs, esp if you are running colder heat range - I really is comforting to know that IF it happens, you will be aware of it before damage is done - I know alot of people do without them, but now that I am used to it, I wouldnt have it any other way. Just think Paul, if you had a decent knock sensor, you could run your 411rwhp without worry:D

SOLD

JimiH, dont see why not, its pretty simple and very effective:)

JimX, yes it does.

The pfc knock detection may be unrealiable, but it can detect it before my ears can - even if its not knock, I feel happy knowing its there in the background watching. I have noticed when I have been pottering around in built up areas that the knock levels increase, even flashing the warning light occasionally - when I back off. After a 'gentle' thrash, it starts to drop off until it (detection levels) stay below 30 even when I am giving it heaps. Now this may not be the case, but if there is a chance that having slightly fouled plugs from running on too many short trips, or if the weather gets a bit hot increasing detonation - if worse comes to worse, I will just wind down the boost or pull a few degrees of timing, and I havent cracked any ringlands yet:D Even a light on the dash is better than bugger all, when you consider how easy detonation can be to avoid, and how it can happen, as Joel said from a bad batch of fuel or on a hot day - I know what I prefer. Seriously, if they only cost a few dollars to buy an aftermarket kit its cheap insurance, and something I would not like to be without.

JimiH, I have seen an excellent method of lightening the throw on a clutch - it was a twin plate os giken, but felt like stock. The guy used two throw out levers, cutting one just before the bulge/indentation, the other was cut 20mm down from the bulge/indentation. Both the levers are the same width, so he got an insert of c-beam steel welded on the inside to hold the two together. Then he used two 20mm spacers for the bolts and two 20mm longer bolts for the slave cylinder. This was on a cefiro, another added advantage was that the clutch had more throw between take-up and full clamp, so it was a very controllable setup and made the car very easy to launch or take off smoothly. Downside to this is sourcing the second throw out lever, and having to drop the box to fit.

No monitor, you can use any incar video screen - indash dvd, nav or something like the nismo centre dash display. Only a few wires needed that connect to the ecu harness. You need the HKS junction box and the harness for temp pressure and exhuast temp. More info here: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/more.asp?id=1082

Digital display

Closeup of analoge display

HKS CAMP (computerised automobile multi player) From the HKS website in Japan, functions available: REV 0-10,000RPM SPEED 0-300KPH COST (FUEL EFFICIENCY) 0-20KM/L FUEL USAGE 3000CC/MIN INJECTOR WORKLOAD 0-100% (CURRENT/PAST) TRIP FUNCTIONS INCLUDE: TIME 0-99H 59min 59sec DISTANCE 0-999.9KMS FUEL USED 999.9L AVERAGE FUEL CONSUMPTION 0-99.9KM/L AVERAGE SPEED 0-300KPH With a junction box, and pressure sensor, temp sensor and exhaust temp sensor, can be used for: HIGH TEMP 0-1000 DEGREES C LOW TEMP -20-180+ C PRESSURE 500mmHg-2.0kgf/cm2 (BOOST) VOLTAGE 0-5.0V AIR FUEL MIX RATIO 10-20 ACCELARTATION RATE -1.5G-1.5G+ INFRARED TEMP -20-180 C+ ENGINE FRICTION GRAPHIC DISPLAY More info on the HKS USA website: http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1082 This unit retails for 39800Yen. It is brand new in the box. Will suit just about any Japanese car (ecu pinnouts for most included). Comes with all connectors etc. Asking $350neg, in adelaide. Attached is displays with basic CAMP unit

Hippy, I have a spare set of feeler guages you can borrow.

Thanks for the kind words hippy. To remove the rubber stuff, I used thinners, soaked a rag and then applied liberally to the dash surround. The rubber will wrinkle, then it will just peel off. Just keep applying until it is ALL off. Mine took nearly a whole 1litre can of thinners. Next use 400 grade wet and dry, rub back the entire plastic (using water - its wet and dry), then clean once again with thinners. You must keep it clean and dust free. Dont scrimp or cut corners on the preperation, as this is the MOST important part. Once the prep is done its all down hill. So now its ready to spray, all rubber is removed, and the whole dash has been sanded and thoroughly cleaned with thinners. Worth note, easiest is to use acrylic thinners, primer and top coat, and if you are applying it, clear coat. DONT mix enamel and acrylic. Always use the same type of thinner, primer, paint and clear - you have been warned (it will go to shit:)) Start with a plastic primer, this is different to metal primer as it is designed to allow paint to adhere to plastic proplerly. The plastic primer I used was clear, so it was a bit difficult to judge how much was on, but I just went for a light wet look, and did two coats allowing about 15-20 minutes between to be touch dry. If you follow the directions on the tin, it is pretty straight forward, dont move the spray over too quick as the paint/primer will be too thin, not too slow or it will run. If you get any runs, wait until it is compeletly dry, sand, clean with thinners and reapply. Once that is touch dry, you can start to apply the top coat. Once again, nice and even. Dont worry too much if you dont get an even coat on the first application, thats why you generally uses several coats (I did 5). Wait until it is touch dry and then apply the next coat. YOU MUST keep it away from dust or dirt while it is being sprayed - otherwise, you will have to go back with the wet and dry and start again. Once you have put on a decent top coat, let it dry. Finally comes the clear, be carefull using gloss, as it will be glarey as hell, I used a matt clear coat, and it looks pretty good, doesnt hurt the eyes in the sun. Same principal as before, touch dry, and do another coat. Colour, I used a grey/silver that is used by HSV for its bumpers, its pretty inoccuous and looks like a similar colour to the grey used by car manufacturers for their dashes. Most important things, good prep, and make sure you use the same type of paint and thinners.

Emre, I think you have proved to aust that you really dont have a clue. Period

Glad I could be of help:)

hehehehe

Sorry to hear hippy, I am with the others, ring consumer affairs.