Steve

but you are saying that its not? I think you are completely wrong. Trust have been producing these turbos for years and sold thousands of them cos they are only as good as the stocker, but make the car feel faster????

ROFL.......so you seriously think a car with a TD06 is going to produce similar power to the stock RB25 turbo? If you are experienced in drag racing, you would know that drivers can make a massive difference in times, as dozens of other things will too. If dyno dynamics say the dyno is reading accurately, what better comparison is there for power figures (when using shootout mode)? seriously.

Would also be interesting if the wolf allowed upgraded afm, does anybody know if it comes with basic maps installed to allow driving before it is tuned?

Hmm, toyota GTR, with bbs rims schweeet!

another, note the milo tin exhaust!

but wait there's more

Got sent these photos as inspiration, thought you guys might like to have a look too:)

And the people stuck where no one wants to touch them:( I contemplated changing to the wolf, but upon investigation here in SA, as already commented, even the local rep knew nothing of the capabilities of the ecu, couldnt tell me if it batch fired or had individual injector control (the website said it did batch fire - others on here have told me no), couldnt tell me what auxilliaries it had, if it could use afm or run closed loop. The tuners here that I have spoken to obviously have no experience with the V4 for skylines either, as they have to a one told me to avoid it and stick with power fc as a better option. Jedat, I am pretty sure that the afm will flow 500bhp+ without significant restriction, I already have over 350rwhp and have resolution left on my Z32 afm.

Nozilla, it isnt a bad idea if you have done a couple of mods, or wound in more boost, to have the AF ratios checked on a dyno, if needed you can pull some timing to keep things safe. You probably dont need to get too carried away until you start more serious modding, which would include having some sort of management - but definately keep an eye on the AF ratios or else:)

How hard would it be to rig a scaled led display, or similar to indicate knock, using the standard knock sensors?

NVCS plug is at the front of the engine, on the inlet side near the top of the rocker cover. Sorry I cant find my digi camera at the moment, my 3YO boy likes hiding things:)

hippy, I doubt even k-mart auto would do a service for $100. Oil is $50 alone.

Havent asked.

Dean, do you know what plugs you have? If you have coppers, it would be worth changing them every 10,000kms - if you are unsure, pull them and have a look. Definately check all your fluid levels, also have a good look around the engine bay for any leaks, same time, check around all the hoses and lines for brakes, clutch, cooling etc for any leaks. And check your brake pads. I havent changed the diff oil on the R33, I will have a closer look at it tonight. Usually you will have two bolts, a drain and fill. Just take the drain bolt out and drain fully (let is stand for a while). Check for metal filings in the oil, as this can be a good indicator of problems - although all diffs will drop a few filings, just like gear boxes. Once the diff has drained fully, replace the bung and remove the fill bung, just fill to its level with the bung (unless there is a recommended fill volume?) sorry I am not 100% on that one - think I may need to check:) hippy, yes someone can do it for you - morpowa:p

That exhaust housing looks sort of large, you could always drop that down a bit. Adj exh cam wheel will help. As for wastegate, you could get a gate fitted directly to the turbine housing - so the manifold wont need to be modded.

Even our local (SA) wolf dealer had no idea about the functionality of the wolf ecu for R33:( sad. He actually suggested I speak to SST if I had any questions about them, as he had no experience with them.

oops, my bad, sorry about that they do run when cold sorry about the bum steer

Unless you are really, really lucky:p

And a big congrats to you too, Steve, for the result with Pauls car, ever thought of moving to SA:D

A good manifold will help, but I think you need to get the set up you have sorted first (thats what I would be doing) as you 'should' be getting alot more. To give you an idea, I took my car to morpowa (here in SA) after having a tune and not being 100% happy. He (martin donnon) got me an extra 26rwkw, with no increase in detonation, and better idle and part throttle response. He asked me what setup I had, told me what sort of power I should be expecting and low and behold, thats what I got. Having someone who knows what they are doing makes a huge difference - bit like Steve SST and his wolf ecus

AFAIK, the fan on R33 has a viscous type centre, so the fan should only work when the centre warms up. these centres can die. As an option (if you have the dollars, I dont know how much a stock fan will cost) buy a twin thermo fan set up from a dismantler, and have that fitted instead. It will need to be adapted, but will give you more power (less load on the crank) and better cooling. they can be bought from as little as $85 dollars, perhaps less. Go into a radiator shop, they should be able to hook it up with a thermostat to only run when the car gets hot.

Having said that, it could be a really ordinary tune.

And lets not forget a nice bonnet:D I think it must be turbo, how can it be a high flow if it flows less than the stocker? You have all the rest of the good gear on there.

Yeah, special price for you on the canola oil hippy:D some dynos charge up to around $150 per hour for the first hour, then $80-$100 there after - so they can be pretty bloody expensive. I honestly believe that if you pay extra and get the job done right the first time, it will be way cheaper than getting an average tune, then having to take the car into someone else to get it done again. Hippy, unless you want to have the car tuned, just do the service yourself - you can quite easily change engine oil, dif and trans oil yourself - where you would be paying someone $50 per hour in labour. do a good visual inspection of all your hoses, check fan belt tension, check your lights, washers, wipers, etc. Even bleed the brakes yourself (good to do at least once a year, just dont use dot5 fluid which will cause major probs with your seals, use dot 5.1:)) Plugs arent a major problem either, change them yourself too. If you want the car tune, get it done after you have done all the above, and it will save you a heap of dollars. and buy the canola oil:p

I dont know why your friend needs to buy a jap brand cooler. If one came up at a good price, then I would say go for it, but if you are buying new - the exra expense isnt necessary. I have a hybrid, it works very well. It costs alot less than a jap cooler, and if it didnt work well it wouldnt be on. but hey, if he (your friend) wants to spend extra money, that could be put to good use elsewhere, its his call I suppose. I am not saying there is anything wrong with Jap coolers, they are excellent products.