Steve

I already found some wheels locally, 2 days ago - sorry I am just after a spare set of 2 now

havent seen them that cheap here in WA got a contact? cheers

Sorry, sold

Reno is (was?) the head of liscencing. I dealt with him a few times, basically he has the final say in any dispute. He is a reasonable man, but very busy, and it can be difficult to get in touch with him.

LOL, why should I, lightweight shockproof has never let me down yet feel free to experiment yourself if you feel the need though.

Who is John Dumbrose? last time I had a disagreement, it was handled by Reno Marcheesi - and it was exactly as you said - WA not being kept up to date by DOTARS. Reno was excellent, as soon as he had the up to date information available (I called DOTARS and asked why they didnt have it) there were no more problems. Pretty reasonable guys as a whole, just doing a job.

not quite, new federal standards allow quite significant variation in wheels sizes and also allow for variation of track up to +25mm without engineer certification. My 17x9x10 inch rims passed over welshpool on an S13, and yes they did measure the wheels, check track, and check tyre size - all legal.

is this your second inpsection? they should only check the things listed on the first inspection sheet... something strange going on. indicator positioning - ADRs hard at work again - some bloody painful/stupid (ie, extremely restrictive) rules unfortuneately.

Ah, now I see where you are coming from that makes much better sense (to me ) cheers

$66 v's $1500... hmm I have run gearboxes for years with worn synchros, just by using redline lightweight shockproof - not everyone has (or wants) to spend $1500 when for less then $100 you can solve the problem - but if it works for you...

hmmm, that's safe...

www.kyp.com.au

KYP have a set of these for sale, 17x9 in gtr offset with excellent rubber for around 2500

super lightweight shockproof is yellow lightweight shockproof is light blue heavyweight shockproof is pinky/red they are all a sort of pastel colour, not really what I would call a 'bright' colour

The greddy square type can be opened, and you can put filling (copper wire scourers work well) in them to catch the suspended oil particulate from the blow by - would be my recommendation The come with all the clamps, quality hoses and mounting brackets and are great quality cusco type would be fine if you are not plumbing it back in, but external vented is NOT street legal your choice

Interesting articles on daylight savings in todays sunday times, page8 - it shows Daylight savings give farmers a longer day to do work around the farm, yet doesnt effect milk production or upset the cows Daylight savings doesnt have a negative effect on childrens sleeping habits if they are in established sleep routines - in sweden where they can have up to 24 hours of light during certain times of the year, children still get sleep Skin cancer is highest in QLD and WA, two states that dont have daylight savings - there is absolutely no evidence to show skin cancer rates will increase due to daylight savings independant polls show up to 89% support in WA for daylight savings. Most resistance to daylight savings is from elderly, and those living in 'old' suburbs, such as cottesloe etc.

from what has been described, its not turbo seals. Hulk 1010, a catch can is very important, and so often overlooked. It stops crank case gasses (blow by) being recirculated through the intercooler, but more importantly stops oil from blow by going into the combustion chamber. Blow decrreases the intercooler efficiency, and can cause detonation. The harder you lean on an engine (more power) the more blow by you will get. RBs do breath a fair bit, especially so if you use too light an oil - 3g 5w50 The smoke coming out of the exhaust - from what you've said, sounds pretty normal - the high knock reading is worth getting checked. Instead of listening to everybody on here - take it to your tuner/mechanic and let them sort it. Without seeing the smoke first hand, its pretty damn hard to say for 100% certain, if you have something to be worried about or not.

Do you have a catch can fitted? preferrably externally vented, if you must plumb it back, make sure its properly baffled blow by is something that alot of people seem to overlook And personally I would be taking the car back to the tuner and asking him to recheck the tune, it may just be that your plugs are not up to task, or some other cause - but if you are suddenly getting higher than normal knock, something is amiss and your tune may need attention.

doesnt keir wilson's gtr run twin trust turbos? one of the quickest (if not the quickest?) gtrs on street tyres in the world I was always under the impression BFOT was purely for economical reasons? - 1 big turbo is cheaper than two medium turbos that need 2 new dumps, inlets blah, blah, blah The physics of twin turbo v's single turbo, for the same flow, twins should spool up quicker (less rotational mass) - this is what I have been led to beleive... can someone shed light on this?

bloody awesome, I passed my car over the pits with heaps of mods (coilovers, 2way, slammed etc, etc), got permits for it all Only time I have been pulled over was getting sideways on an on-ramp, just gave me a fine, no defect, no hooning bullshit, nothing - loving it

ah adeliade hills, god I miss them

Something else to try, adjust your idle bleed solenoid (AAC Vv), open it up a bit and see if that fixes it.

To get it legal, you 'should' put in a request to modify vehicle form with DOTARS (welshpool) Dont go telling them you are after 2.6gigawatts at the rear wheels, just thell them you are after a torque increase of 20% or so (mild upgrade). Once its done, you have to take it down to them, they will check the vehicle out, and if they are happy, will give it approval - if not, they will tell you what they dont like, and you may find yourself looking for the services of a mechanical engineer - which is where it can get expensive. Bottom line, dont go overboard, keep it simple, get it approved and then, if you need, lean on it a bit more. If you roll up in a tyre shredding car that is a monster to keep in a straight line/hold traction - forget it.

180 is an awesome price if it includes leakdown and compression test As suggested above, dont bother taking an import to just any mech workshop, make sure they are import and nissan specialists which hyperdrive are they work on them, race them, drive them, love them - cant go wrong as they will know what to look for when asessing the heath of a potential purchase.

and why is that, what's so different between say SA and NT? if the sun is out, the sun is out - curtains have always worked well in the past for me.